Shawn Simpson: I sure appreciate the time and trouble it took to make this video. Only 999
nuts bolts and screws to go. Wish me luck! :D
Angel Lopez: Very good and fast thank you.
466htrd: Cool videos (1, 2, and 3) for a pain in the ass job! My luck, I would
forget to put something back together and have to backtrack the procedure
to find it.
Ricky Layhe: saved me a ton of time!!!! Great video
greg123ca: followed his instruction to the letter. worked like a charm. Thanks for the
Thunder Lightning: Is the 2002 / F150 4.6 heater core replacement the same as your videos 3
John Sevein: If you wait until you have the dash and the top of the heater box off you
can take a cutting wheel and cut off the heater core tubes from the inside
and not have to fight getting the "Quick Connects" loose.
Odet Smook: its ridiculous how you have to take off everything .
beeper302: Perfect video, you saved me at least 800 if not more, Granted it took me 13
hours but I have never attempted to do this type of work on a vehicle.
Thank You again for this,,,,,
witchdoc1: I just wanna thank you for posting this video...!!! You are a "GREAT"
teacher and I thank you..! I've saved myself lots of cash annd now have
James Hudson: why (typically) would a heater core fail?
MPEREZZ143: I like thes videos thanks duane and you crw for the time and big
Steven Birdsall: One more extra tip...If you don't want to get or have access to the special
tool for the quick disconnect, just cut the tubes off the old core from the
inside (as long as your replacing it) and pull them through...very simple
to do and you don't have to try and fish the tool into the slots of the
barqzr davi: cathodic corrosion , combined with impure metal in an area that is stressed
when the parts of the core or collectors are stamped out, most always on
corners or joins
dlarsen09: I just finished replacing my heater core on my 02 f150. Because of these
videos I was able to save over $700 by doing it myself. I would like to say
thank you and keep up the great videos.
Dohn Joe: Duane, don't raise your eyebrows, those are called Quick-Connect, not
tcoggs1618: The dimensions are for the 5/8 side; Total width - 1.66" . notch width -
.80". notch depth - 1.0"... the 3/4 side is; Total width 1.66". notch width
- 1.0". notch depth - 1.25"...
Bubble Gum: Is this the same for a 2007 F150?
tcoggs1618: For those who would like to fabricate the hose removal tool. The perfect
material to make this out of is 1.5" X 1.5" angle iron 1/8" thick . The
dimensions are for the 5/8 side; Total width - 1.66" . notch width - .80".
notch depth - 1.0"... the 3/4 side is; Total width 1.66". notch width -
1.0". notch depth - 1.25"... Just fasten these on the opposite ends of 12
to 24 inch rod (1/4 to 1/2" thick)
Michael Wheeler: Did this for a Crown Victoria...Ford likes to hide their heater cores :)
And, I would love to have had that tool...good stuff.
joe fulk: i want to thank you for your video help a lot . I used a 1" crows foot for
the hose worked like a charm ,thanks agene
eccentricorgan: Thank you for posting these three videos! They were a great guide for me
and my 1999 F150 4.6. After doing the procedure this weekend, I can really
appreciate the intro scene you have in all three videos of you removing the
dash assembly in one big piece. LOL! Lots of really nice tips in here!
Jason Larson: My Heater Core went out. Gotta love that "maple syrup" smell when it
arrives. UGH! I have 314,000 miles on my 2000 F-150. The AC works fine. Is
it a good idea to replace the evaporator core too? I will be doing the job
stroked86cat: Did this in my 97 it is true ford hangs the heater core on the assembly
line then builds the truck around it!!!!
Restricted But Armed: wow. mine just started leaking too. what great timing. lol
Doomsday971: Quick connectors are good on some things, I ended up breaking mine off and
just using hose clamps......
Amy Tessier: freak THIS crap! conspiratorial engineering!
fivefortyeye540i: I bet that job cost that client a arm and leg
Dale C: Unless your have to give the old part back to the customer, cut them it'll
save you time and you won't have to cut the foam pad which stays with the
Mark A.: Do you have a video how to change out the heater core on a 1998 Jeep
Cherokee Sport? Are there any short cuts you can give me on this? I was
told the whole dash has to come out.
briansmobile1: Duane, you're the man! I was going to make a video of this today and felt
like I had to do it to help people. I wound up being helped by your video
instead! Thank you so much!
Bernard Beaullieu: This video is great. This is a big job but video really helps. Thanks
tinydx95t2: That tool makes it a lot easier. The tool is very reasonably priced. Can't
wait to see the rest of the videos in this series.
TheThurak13: Does any one know the name of the tool he uses on 4:20?
epiphaknee: That specialty tool is a big time [life] saver! What are the "book" hours,
on a heater core R&R with this vehicle?
500hpb20: @gradefuldead42022 same here
lacook19: @ethandiaz 700 bucks possibly
amjadama: Did this on my Cavalier, a painful job!!! and the worst part is the dash is
"cracky" plastic and sometimes it ends up breaking and cracking in some
places!! great vid as usual Duane, waiting for the other parts!! thanx!
jstmoto: Started to worry without seeing any new videos lately. Your videos are some
of the most informative I've seen! Thanks
Dion Starfire: About the hose connectors not being quick: a "quick connect" isn't
necessarily a quick disconnect. In fact, it's usually harder to disconnect
these types of connectors (in an engine, at least) than if they'd used a
slower-to-install method like clamps, bolts or screws.
Adriano Fariselli: Thanks ! I just got to say You guys got the best video How to .
llamaking12: @ethandiaz id say 600-800 ive seen
rja0536: Hi, did you have to disconnect anything on the AC? I read on other posts
that some people said they had to recharge the Ac
Mike R: Great info. The book said to drain down the ac system, but i see i only
need to do that if i change the evap. I guess they want me to move the evap
to get out the foam piece. thanks for the cutting tip for the foam piece,
saved more time and money. Great series.
barqzr davi: it's not so much the type material but the quality of it and the stamping
process dies often stamp corners and bends to paper thinness
Bushougoma: The special tool is OTC part number 519156 you can get it for 12 bucks if
you look around. You can do it without the tool and a pair of pliers or
vice grips but the tool makes it infinitely easier. The plastic retainer
clips the tool depresses MUST be replaced after disconnecting the fittings
they are one time use. The sealing orings must also be replaced. Dorman
sells the retainers so you don't need to go to the dealer.
nengberg21: It's called a heater hose disconnect tool. autozone sells them for 20 bucks
jt: Why does this job take 7-8 hours as the repair shop says?
REALSLATER: i'm so glad i watched this. i can't afford the 600 right now but at least
now i know for today i can pack up my tools and tackle this another time.
thank you so much for the information.
tcoggs1618: If you are still doing this, a couple of things.... be sure to remove the
wire bundles from the passenger side wall or they will get snagged by the
lower dash hinge. Also instead of buying a new door I sanded .05" off of
the lower door hinge (evenly!) then slipped a 1/2" copper pipe FITTING
piece over the stub..worked perfectly. Good Luck!