TheClarinetplyr: Excellent tutorial! Thank you. Now....off to do some more work on the
TheHenchmen11: will you come to ohio and install new windows in my house please.
pipingdogtooth: You must learn how to remove your siding. Unfortunately the sill flashing
can not be installed in an old window, but you can still flash all around
the bottom against the house wrap. I also suggest installing a layer of
metal or vinyl flashing (at least 10") on top of the flashing tape.
kipsupholstry: Way Slick Carl, I had no Idea such products were available will get some as
I have 10 or more windows to replace, thank you Kip
hai21century: Great video, thank you.
MyLaneb: Hi Craig, thanks for the video, I lived in my home now for about a year and
the wall in my living room underneath the window is water damaged, I can
tell where they patched the wall to hide the water damage, then painted
over it. who do I need to call to fix this problem? Last year I just got
the whole house insulated. so now all that insulation has to be hold
moisture as well and the paint is bubbled up chipping, brown, etc. please
etoyize: Window flashing. They have flashing tape to go around the OUTSIDE of the
windows to prevent water from getting in. But alot of people say the most
important is to flash the sills - inside/under the windows. How/why is
that? don't you want to stop the water from getting in?
Takihashi16: Wow, you know what you are talking about and you do it well. Thanks for the
Craig Savage: Start by knowing that all siding, doors and windows will leak, the
challenge is to create a secondary water barrier, the Water Resistive
Barrier, that will drain water away from the sheathing underneath to the
outside. The video shows how to apply the WRB -- shingling each layer from
bottom to top, so that no matter where bulk water enters, it always is
shunted back out. You can learn more at the Building America website., Hope
Professorie: very helpful, but I don't understand some terms of some procedures to
avoid: (a) X-cut opening (b) level head cut (c) inverted Y cut. So, I'm not
sure what I'm supposed to avoid.
MrGraygrizz: Now that's what my builders carpenters should have done! Time for me to
re-do it correctly. I guess the old saying holds true, "If you want
something done right, your going to have to do it yourself!".
MrCoolguy6273: i got to replace windows all in my house, do you got to remove the drywall
from the inside or not?
SEO.com: I needed this thx
sidehop: Thank you, very informative.
Craig Savage: Hello Laneb I'm afraid you'll probably need to find a contractor with
siding experience who can remove the Vinyl or Wood trim around the window
and maybe some of the siding so you can inspect the water resistive barrier
and flashing details underneath. Odds are it's not a terribly difficult
fix.....warning, don't be fooled into thinking someone can "seal" it with
secrete sauce, caulk or anything from the outside.... Hope this helps. Craig
s37d: he rubs it in hard
torymountain: Y does his hard hat have crap smeared across the front? And there might be
some merde on his face, or is that a beard under construction?
Nutt Buster: Very thorough. Thanks Carl.
John Dole: @Professorie - yes
sesomyort: I live in Florida and have been struggling for 6 years with builders both
put a sill pan in with a turned up inside edge, and to have them not seal
the bottom window fin. This is an excellent tutorial that reinforces that
the water will indeed permeate - the key is to give it a way to get out.
Professorie: One more question: what is skip taping? Couldn't tell from the video. Is it
simply that you don't tape all the way across? Very good and clear
unknownunknownknow: Check out the price for Flex wrap .. It ain't cheap ! .. I have to agree
with this fella .. I thought In was one of the few that knew how to
properly flash a window .. Most clowns tape the whole window even if specs
diagram it different .. I always tilt the sills and do not tape or silicon
it .. Water got to go somewhere is case
MItch W: This is great Craig. I have a window opening in concrete basement wall.
What is your recommendation for installing a window in concrete? Thanks.
MrCandew: Great video was very easy to follow and understand. Thank you csavage1947
for posting this.
isantimn mn: There are 1000 +. Videos on YouTube for installing windows. This one in the
Craig Savage: Does the window have a flange or is it caulk in place?
bob smith: This guy is great, finally a video done properly, answered all my questions
I have 17 windows to do on my barn!!
archdynamics: Carl is indeed the man - even though we show these details on our
Architectural plans, it's amazing how often the guys in the field still do
it the 'old' way.
captaincvfd: where does the water go that gets to the sill wrap?? Down the building
paper until it finds a hole in the paper then its in the house This was a
good flashing compared to most but the bottom flashing needs to bring the
water out to the top of siding not let it run down the side of the building
Abay Singh: Thank you. Just found solution to my leacky windows
pipingdogtooth: Just fantastic!! Thanks for the information and for your attention to
detail. Termites and ants don't just wander into structures. They follow
the moisture trail that inept contractors usually provide.
Wesley Willard: That mustache is badass.
Matt Risinger: Excellent video Carl! This is a perfect install and I'm guessing that a lot
of people have used this to train their guys in the field. I'm a big
believer in the Tyvek Weatherization system and I'm annoyed by how many
windows I see getting installed improperly & without sill pan flashing.
Nice work buddy. Matt Risinger
coldkidc: Why didn't he caulk the windows? He talks about it but didn't do it...
Nan Null: @Professorie I don't know why he didn't explain, but I guess, he said don't
x-cut, meaning cutting two straight lines crossing each other to start out
the cur for the rectangle window. Cut the top, make sure it's level. Then
cut a path that resembles an inverted Y. Why? I am not quite sure.
bogiewheelman71: this is good for a new built home but how about on a older home with siding
mrsleep0000: @378904 Yes, if flashing is not installed it will leak. I am replacing
almost an entire wall right now because my wife's ex installed a
replacement window and did not flash it properly. It leaked like crazy and
rotted a large section of the frame.
senorpadre: This was very helpful. I viewed it multiple times to install my new
windows. I wish you had one for doors. Thank you.
popcorn4two: Another excellent video. Was hoping you'd include how to cut TyVek the
correct way. What's informative about this video was the "skip taping" on
top of the window. Thanks for posting.
dynomax666: Nice to see people doing this properly. This is code since 2008, but only
about 25% of contractors are doing this.
MItch W: The windows do not have a flange. They do have the brick moulding around
the windows. This is in a snow region. Also, would it be best to use vinyl
moulding? Thanks Craig!
Dmitry Chouliak: Caulking requires on the flanges to the paper prior membrane application!!!
mexihoosier: Thank you Carl.
s37d: having to cut the corners of house paper annoys me, so i like this here
jmr4940: what size flashing is this, 6" or 9"?
TheLkvoice: while watching this vid open a new tab and also play this one
/watch?v=CS9OO0S5w2k and try not to smile
Craig Savage: Etoyize You are correct that flashing around the outside flanges or frame
of the window is designed to keep water out. BUT windows and siding and
even housewraps can sometimes leak...inspite of all the best practices. SO
putting in a sill (pan) flashing is prudent and remains the best practice.
If you look at this video all the way through you'll see how Carl creates a
sill pan flashing.
twjonesDDS51: Thanks. Very informative. Especially like how you raised the flexwrap
before placing the flashing at the top, then applied tape in SEGMENTS to
allow potential trapped water to run out. I had not been doing either of
those two thing.
boomboom2005: you can be a great teacher.
Bowtie41: Hi,I'm getting ready to replace my old windows with vinyl replacements,then
the house will be resided in vinyl.Would this system work in such a
situation over the old frames?We live in an industrial area,and always have
dirt/soot infiltration.I don't think the window frames are sealed
correctlyor any caulk that is there had failed letting dirt/dust in,and I
want to stop it and any air leaks before the home is resided.