beadeecats: thank you thank you so much i went to 2 local hardware stores and no one could help me with this. no one even knew how the parts worked. watched your video went out and fixed my door. THANK YOU!!!
JOHNNYKRUSE: Thank You. I repaired my neighbor's sliding door after viewing this video.. And thanks to you I did it without using any curse words.
Diane Thornton: I have to say, yes this is extremely hard. There are no perfect replacements that home depot carries that exactly match original hardware, so this is the closest. If I hadn't seen your video, I think I would have shot myself in the head after the # of times I tried this. So it really helped. I replaced orig. hardware with both the B-515 and the B-736. The difference betw. them and the orig. hardware was that the orig. hardware had a hook rather than the grabby thing, and it had a rounded spring rather than an L-shaped one.
This is what I found: First step of loosening the tension screw is extremely important! Without doing that, you're going to have difficulty. Next, to line up the grabby thing, you have to find just the right sweet spot vis-a-vis those nubby things. It's not directly under, as one person here noted, because when you pivot the wheel from behind, it's going to change that angle. Also, you have to use a really narrow phillips head screw driver, and a long one I found out, to get the right arc and not break the nylon wheel. (I broke one last time I tried this months ago - that time I gave up.) After they were installed, neither model, B-515 nor B-736, provided the spring-type tension that the orig. hardware had. I could get them in (aargh! never want to do it again!) but no matter the tension screw's position, there is now no "bounce" which we had with original hardware. All I know is our door is now working, but it wasn't easy. I believe our door mfr is Jeld Wenn; it's the one with the blinds inside the glass.
Ka Na: wow. Sat here for 30 minutes trying to get this done. watched your video and had it rolling in 2 minutes. thanks!
scooter56tuna: The video helped me a lot but what I discovered was that every time I tried to force the spring clip in, the roller would pop out. What I did was remove the plastic roller AND small plastic axle, then put in the spring clip. Once I had the metal clip in I just rotated the clip down and pushed the roller and axle unit in. I had to spread the sides of the clip but it was much easier than trying to force the complete unit in. You should show this as an alternative to forcing it in as one unit. But as I said, the video did show the basic replacement so I thank you for that.
thetheflyinghawaiian: thanks. made the process so much easier
Thomas Pelz: So this is the real deal. After nearly 4 + hours of frustration. Yes the old rollers come out easy, but getting the new ones in are extremely difficult. I bought 2 sets of nylon rollers and all I ended up doing was breaking the rollers off trying to slide it into place. At my wits end I called to have someone fix it and was told they don't do this and it would cost $200 plus for a new screen door. This was by a company and a handyman in the area I live. They would not just replace the rollers. Last ditch effort I went to Home Deport and purchased rollers with a steel roller. I was done in 20min. The steel gave you the strength you needed to slide it into place. They were $10 for 2 so $20 total. Don't waste your time with the cheap nylon.
Art Lupinacci: THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! :)
Mine fixed up nice and simple, saved me all sorts of grief!!
upland90254: Very helpful - thanks. Worked just as shown, although I had a lot of rust on my old wheels so it took a little effort.
gastogne: Thank you. Very helpful.
Whitney Sheets: Is there a solution to a broken pin that connects the wheel to the door?
caesar ramirez: Thank You
Spikestrip55: I appreciate the instructional, but can't a design be created where the Rube Goldberg spring clip arrangement is changed out for a simple screw on either side of the roller assembly making a change-out easier? I'm having quite a time with the opening of the clips, then installing the new roller assy...
Mark Lundegren: Thanks for the helpful homeowner DIY video...in my case, your video prompted me to check the wheel adjustments, which solved my derailing problem. Thanks again!
Steve Varnell: A few more tips. 1 wiggle the roller tongs back and forth slightly when close to when they are spreading. 2 where the tip of the Phillips screwdriver determines your leverage point. You need that leverage and in some spots you just don't get it. 3. I found that I got it in on my second roller a bit faster when I had aligned to one side of the prong and not in the center. You are lifting in a bit of an arc so the center point will miss when rotated. 4. A second regular screwdriver may help in getting the Phillips in position. Great video. I struggled for an hour before I found this video. In 15 minutes I was then done. Most of these DIY videos don't have the video skills or equipment to show every detail. The key like he said is the 3/16" Phillips. I did not use string/wire because I did not have any handy.
Michael Walsh: A very good instructional video. I will add that I found it hugely helpful to run a piece of fishing line or thin wire (my wife has this stuff called "floral wire") around the new wheel assembly behind where it clips to the pins in the door frame. That way, if you have to move the screwdriver to get more leverage, or even reposition the whole assembly ever so slightly for it to line up properly, you can keep it in position instead of having it slip off the pins entirely.
John Gotti: I have a Model#B691 roller. how do I remove boken one and install new rollers
Myrele McGuinty: How do I change the bracket that the roller is attach to ?