Mike ownerbuilder: When cutting fiberglass insulation around an electrical box, it should not be bunched up to the side as illustrated. It should be compressed (up to 2x for regular density and up to 1.5x for high density) and squeezed behind the box in order to achieve the max R value. If the space behind the box is less than 1/2 of the thickness of the batt, then trim some of the batt away by making it thinner. Splitting the fiberglass around a wire or similar is still the best approach, but in that case most of the full depth of the cavity is still available to be filled with fiberglass.
All insulation types have some issues, which is a lot of why there are so many products on the market. I prefer fiberglass batts for my insulation after also reviewing: blown in fiberglass (much worse fiberglass dust issues, better R value and lower installed cost), cellulose (soaked in chemicals, minimal dust issues), cotton (soaked in chemicals, expensive, hard to work with, no dust issues), EPS foam (nothing but chemicals, smoke hazard in a fire, static cling makes retro-work a nightmare, expensive), Polyiso foam (nothing but chemicals, smoke and fire hazard in a fire, expensive, dust is an extreme irritant making retro-work a nightmare, high initial R value performance but uncertain long term performance). In comparison, fiberglass batts are inexpensive, relatively green, have low flammability (note: a plastic binder that is added to the glass is flammable, but there is very little of it), and naturally repels pests. Batts can be removed and re-installed as needed for retro-work. Batts generate a little dust and is a moderate irritant. I do not think there is any supporting evidence that the fibers are fine enough to cause cancer, but wearing a dust mask is still a good idea.
Installing fiberglass batts properly is very time consuming, negating some of the cost advantage of the material unless you are doing the installation yourself and do not mind expending your time.
Otiselevatorman89: Hey this is made out of cotton candy eat it
Cole Russell: awesome video! but I would advise to use 4mil poly instead.
E. S.: "Lung Cancer" you need to charge enough money to cover your medical bills when you get lung cancer disease. specially if don't use a breathing mask ...
nieze: I know this is off topic, but I live in the tropics and I am researching everything from traditional methods, to concrete, to shipping container style homes. As you can assume, heat and humidity will be the two major evils in my project. So far I am leaning towards container style with 2x4 treated pine for internal framing. I was thinking would this type application work in this setting? It is quit difficult and super expensive to get proper supplies from the states. However, I am hopeing that the nearest island Guam will have some of the items needed for my project. Thanks for the channel. I learn so much.
Jason Crawford: Should you not use 6 mm polly?
Swinging The Hammer (Marty Gordon): I didn't realize that This Old House was even still a show. lol. Where's Bob Vila?
j3zusjuice: I usually caulk the exterior walls, polly the joist, and insulate the windows than foam. not in that exact order though.
Luis Guerra: good job.
jason inoa: Excellent !!! Thank you guys!!!
chris222233: I have a question hope someone can help. I have a old house with no wall insulation. The siding on the outside of the house is asbestos, that only have paper under it. I was to take the drywall down and hang plywood in the wall cavity with a bracket. Then seal the cracks around the plywood with spray foam. (Only the cracks) then I'm putting in r-15 b/c they are 2x4 walls. Lastly I'll put plastic on the wall, then put up the drywall. Is this okay?? Anyone with feed back? Will it cause moisture? It's cheaper to do this and not reside the whole house. I'm in the Stafford area va. Mixed weather. Thank you everyone!!!
SeriousSchitt: Just a couple of things guys. Firstly, what is this moisture barrier? I thought a house had to breathe? Surely wrapping it up in plastic would, at the very least, trap moisture between your interior wall cladding and the plastic sheet you stuck up!
Secondly, are you gentlemen quite happy breathing in all the small fibres of glass from those 'pink fluffies' you're installing? Thanks
Danielle Chase: Hey thanks :)
TheMsLady4Real: Can you use this method for pre-existing wall, can I take paneling down and insulate wall/room?
TheMsLady4Real: How would u do this for an old house with , rooms that have no insulation, and built on exterior walls? These rooms are super hot in summer and extremely cold in winter?
Doug Reed: 1:10 HVAC guys should have run those lines and the condensate drain in the next stud cavity over on the outside of the house. Sure it wouldn't have looked as pretty, even with a cover, but it would allow for proper insulation, be that many fewer inter-floor penetrations and wouldn't necessitate tearing open the wall should they ever require service.
Ricardo Junqueira: I wonder when, if ever, this technology is gonna come to Brazil! :-p
MRJOHNDEERE3720: thanks 4 the vid guys. im hopeing 2 put Insulation in my shop, now i no how 2 do it the right way..:) thanks again. :)