Chris Hall: You are a gentleman and a scholar! Thanks for the video upload.
ofalejandro12: i change mine front and the right side is more ease to come off from top side is more room 2000 outback
Gary Dunning: Just replaced my CV's, thanks for the video. One thing that happened was those roll pins holding the cv to the transmission shaft. I drove the first pin out then pulled the cv out but the trans shaft came out with the cv. I guess the shaft had some rust and stuck fast. I had no choice but pull off the trans shaft from the old cv, put the shaft on the new CV and then install the new CV. The other side CV I did not bother removing the pin, just pulled and out it came. Replaced and all is fine.
James Rugh: Brian,
First, Thank you so much for the guidance. Using one of your other videos I changed a head gasket the other day. Running like a champ now. I am now looking to replace my CV axle on a 1999 Subaru. 2 Questions: What axle would you recommend. If its Cardon: they have a note "FRONT - TRANSFER INNER STUB SHAFT FROM ORIGINAL AXLE TO REPLACEMENT CV AXLE". I did not see anything in your video about this. Can you give me some guidance on this one. Thanks again.
paintballthieupwns: Thanks for the tip about the retaining pin ! Saved my a bunch of grief !!!!!
Chris Carlson: Completed yesterday on 1998 Foz driver's side with the Rock Auto Cardone replacement. Video was a big help. Chose strut bolts method as in the video. It gave plenty of room & easy to replace. Note I found helpful on Forester forum, take load off wheel before breaking the axle nut to avoid wheel bearing damage. The pin on mine broke in the middle & would not drive out with a punch. Used long skinny nail down the middle of pin to drive out half, then turned shaft & used punch for other half.
netfinds4u: This video is fantastic!!
Michael Sackstein: I had this problem on my old '98 Legacy wagon
briansmobile1: I get them from the dealership or from a wrecking yard.
Jacob Williams: Brian do you know where I can find the top cam bolt as you referred to it. I damaged mine. Do you sell it? I live in Utah.
Rich Henson: Nice video. Alternately, don't undo the two strut studs, but instead, undo either end of the ball joint. Pull the entire strut and knuckle forward away from the control arm just enough to undo the axle. A few less steps. Also, the punch is 7/32" available for $3 at any hardward store.
Mark Blumhardt: Thanks Brian - This is a great prep because I need to replace front passenger-side trans axle seal on my 97 legacy. Question - after I remove the axle per this vid, can I just pull the stub out from the trans and then replace the seal, or do I also have to take out that bearing load adjustment thingy (mechanics term) where I have to count turns, etc.? Anything else I should know? Mark
justinisboredtoday: Thanks. Hahahaha! Knock that out and place it with your bolts. Perfect shot!
Domingo Morales Santana: Hola tengo un subaruu impresa 2500 wrx y tiene un problema que se queda din fuerza y suele dar cabezasos se le a cambiado caudalimetro y inyectores y no se más que hacer usted puede ayudarme por favor le dejo mi correo email@example.com
Hi I have a printed subaruu 2500 wrx and you have a problem that is din force and usually give head movements and he is you changed flowmeter and injectors and not is more to do you can help me please I leave my email firstname.lastname@example.org
cpncme273: Don't forget to point out abs sensor on later models
cpncme273: Btw thank you for the vids Brian!
cpncme273: Might be worth pointing out that 05 models don't use split pins and require removal of the knuckle completely
briansmobile1: You're most welcome!
jokersvue0: Brian, thank you!!!!!
Because of your video, I now know how to replace a CV Axle on a Subaru... Keep up the great work and thank you for sharing your knowledge..... Thanks again!!!
briansmobile1: Forester didn't come out till 1998. Cardone Select 66-7055 New CV Axle Link in the description.
chris michail: Hey Brian! Do you know, the correct cv joints i need for my car?
There still on the car because i dont want to take them off and then take to long to find them. So there not broken yet but are ticking alot.
I've been told that the outer teeth mesures 27mm,the inner side is 22mm, and the middle seal is 56mm. I thought someone like you who has worked on a few Subaru car will know. Thanks
Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd.
Subaru Forester Turbo 1997
Chassis Number SF5
Engine model EJ20G
briansmobile1: No vacation home huh? Dang. I'd check your trans fluid for metal. Drain a little onto some clear plastic and look at the bottom.
briansmobile1: sweet vacation home in Cabo? And you want to let me stay there for free? AWESOME!!!!
briansmobile1: Thanks! When people express appreciation like that I know it was worth doing.
MrSweetieJayDub: Man these videos are excellent. Thank you for taking the time.
briansmobile1: You're welcome!
Snoshado: Big help Brian. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
briansmobile1: a blocked or plugged up catalytic converter would cause the leak AND the fuel economy issue. Take the temp of the cat at op temp and see if it's 300-400 deg F higher or not than the inlet side.
thumasta666: hi brian,my 2.5l 99 legacy outback auto, gets really bad gas mileage, i iavent really measured it accurately, but i would say its getting less than 20 mpg, i have a small exhaust leak right under where the front seats are, and whoever had the motor before the scap yard disabled the EGR and cut the metal tube going to the EGR and crimped it, would either and or both of these issues be causing the bad mpg's? thanks
fuq yeuh: had a problem, swapped the front axles, and there is noise coming from the front end, going to get it checked out, sounds annoying its a constant clicking sound coming from below the shifter
Filip Smola: I found what worked best for me as a punch is the pin of regular door hinge.
briansmobile1: You're welcome!
7Westwood: Thanks for another GREAT video... You will save me a ton of money !!!!
1audionote: I own a 2008 Subaru Sti and I bought the factory service manual. I just replaced the front wheel bearings on my car and the manual says the axel nuts needed to be torqued to 162ft.lbs failure to torque the wheel nuts to spec will result in bearing failure. I find it hard to believe that you would omit such an important detail. The subaru you were working on has a correct torque spec for the axel nuts and you should never just impact wrench them on...."knowledge is king"
thunderbox91: great video mate! i have noticed i have a clicking sound while turning right only. so am i right in saying that its the left hand side CV thats the issue?
briansmobile1: Sometimes I do it on the bench. It's easy to go too far on the bench and block the opening- also if you do it under the car you can look through the hole to see if it's alined. With a pin in it you're blocked and could easily be off 180.
Wallie2004: Why do you do the roll pins under the car? I pull the shaft and spline out and do the roll pin on the bench
briansmobile1: Hey Scott, I find the remans fail quick, but the jobber new ones do great.
Another great vid...When you replace your cv's do you notice the jobber parts wear out faster? I remember having a 2 wheel drive legacy and found the OEM lasted way longer...wondering if the 4 wheel drives distribute the wear and tear better with fewer issues than the 2 wheel drive..plan to remove the engine in the 01 legacy this spring for a HG...your videos-and unassuming approach--builds confidence for us semi mechanical types.I actually like working on the subie more than my TR6
Jim Mc: I had a heck of a time getting the roll pin in when I installed the new axle. It just wouldn't go through the hole in the splines coming from the differential. After numerous tries, I rotated the output spline shaft 180 degrees and tried putting it in that way. It worked perfectly on the first try. I've now read that the output shaft has a chamfered side and a straight side. That might have been the problem. Just FYI for those who are doing this.
briansmobile1: It could be tire related too.
briansmobile1: That's a low mileage for that to be the problem, but it's possible. Has it hit a curb?
traxxasslash26: Hey man, I have a subaru impreza with 49,XXX miles on it and I have a sound that is emitted only when taking a left turn. My conclusion is the CV joints, but at the current mileage, is this normal?
Mike Rector: thanks man i needed this critical info you can get rich from charging for your easy to understand training videos thanks again
briansmobile1: On Subaru's I use new OE spec axles, but they are aftermarket. The problem is the play/wear on the female side of the axle. After market axle re builders neglect this I feel.
Eric Paul: Hey man - any brand preference? There seems to be some disagreement on the forums, lots of reports of vibration from non-Subaru parts (or rebuilt OE units). Wondering what you like to use?
AKghandi: on the transmission side of the C/V theres a hole for a roll pin to lock it onto the transmission stub. On one side theres a dimple, when you take the C/V off the trans make note of which side the dimple is facing, if you put the new C/V on you have to make sure the dimple goes on the same side it came off.
if you put the new C/V on the wrong side the roll pin will only go half way in due to the odd number of splines.
this applies to 70-90's subarus i'm not sure if the 2000' subarus have them.
Josh Gillispie: What do you mean about the dimple, and how can I be sure that it's correct?
sonictech1000: I did the Driver's side 3 years before the passenger's side. No ill effects.
Decay: Thanks for the help im going to take on my wagon
How to replace the CV axle in your Subaru5
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