gotmituns: anyway, i finally had time to install the 4 relays into my light module
crown vic, while following instructions. took about 1 hour. it is a very
easy task, instead of spending hundreds of dollars. the lights work. my
previous symptoms were, I heard a click in module and the headlights went
out. then click again, and the lights came back on. i had to hold the high
beam in order to have headlights at all times...
Ryan Smith: Just as a heads up to anyone that orders these relay's, they are now white
and made by OMRON. Thanks for the vid, just did mine and it works like a
grandmercls: Awesome video! I drive a 2004 Grand Marquis, with the same issue of
headlights turning off. Now they don't turn on at all, period. Can this be
fixed by the same process you are showing? Also if i put the original light
bulbs back in after this rebuild, will this issue go away?
elppedro77: Outstanding video!! Thank you beltstowing! I will order the relays and fix
it myself, saving me about $280
dasmanal mcclinton: Has anybody else made a mistake and burn't a copper trace?
Robert Browder: I just replaced the relays in the LCM for my 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis.
It took about 2 hours and the hardest part (for me) was getting the box out
from, and installed back under the dash.
The local dealer wanted $610 to replace the LCM.
This video saved me a lot of money
Angel Delgadillo: I have a check engine light issue and trying to get the dashboard off to
change light bulb , can you give me any advice on how to remove the
jdmsir231: great video thanks for posting, mouser no longer has the nec 511-eq1-11111s
relay is there an alternate?@beltstowing
gotmituns: I think the switch is ok. But there is a black box under the steering
wheel, when the light turn off, I have to kick the box with my right foot.
Then I hear a click, and lights turns on. could it be a relay problem shown
in the video? (crown victoria 2003) thanks
TWINKIEHOLOCAUST: Dude awesome video
Ryan Smith: would you have any extra LCM modules that are repaired that you would sell?
I am not much of an electrical guy and never used a soldering gun before.
Great video though!
Daves Marauder: I have a similar concern as Thor Jensen asked below. Can anyone confirm for
sure that the new Omron G5LE-1-E-DC12 part is sufficient in terms of the
current it can carry? I'm not a relay expert, but compared the data sheet
for this component and the original NEC EQ1-11111S. The Original lists 30A
contact current, the new part lists 16 A at 250VAC. With all the concerns
that even the original was under-size for the job, I wanted to ask for
opinions before replacing these. Thanks!
towrecker: the highest load on the LCM is 14 amps , that being your high beams , all
the others are far less , also remember the switch made by the relay is of
a ground , that helps some , also in dc that relay would be rated far
higher at just 12 volts , in other words , stuff them in , buy an extra set
for the glovebox , and never look back ,I could toss some algebraic
equations in here to nail it down to the exact rating , but it's pointless
, as those will handle at least what the original ones did...
gotmituns: I have a problem with my headlights. when i turn the switch on, the
headlights will not turn on. I have to kick (lightly) the box with my right
foot, and then I hear the click, and the headlights turn on. But it is
annoying because when I use the turning signal, the headlights turn off
sometimes. Also they turn off while I am driving at night, and then turn
back on by themselves. is it module problem?
towrecker: they will last about 75-100k of normal car use , they really do need to be
rated higher to withstand the environment , beating , banging , hot , cold
ect , but unless you run the wheels off a car , it's no big deal to visit
the box again in 5 years , and any relay larger has to be ran outside the
box , I just stay internal...
Daves Marauder: Thanks very much for the quick reply, towrecker! It might have been other
sites where I saw the comments about the 30A part being borderline(I didn't
know the actual draw of the headlights myself, so thanks for including that
info). I'll probably attempt the fix this weekend, assuming I can get the
darn thing out from under the dash! LOL :). I'm sure I'll be fine with the
actual part replacement on the board. Thanks for doing this video, BTW, it
is VERY, VERY helpful!
towrecker: well the way the power feeds to the box it runs 2 ways , one side is a
ground from the actual light switch , the other through the multi function
switch , dimmer , signal ect . if one side is made , but not the other , a
kick could cause the relay to latch by artificial means , being the
symptoms you state , I bet the mulit function switch is shot , they do
cause some odd stuff to happen when they do also ...
towrecker: another idea is this , wire outside the LCM , and use brick relays like are
in the relay center of your car , you can buy the plugs for them online ,
then if one ever fails , it's very easy to fix if you can get your head ,
and arms twisted in a knot at the same time under the dash , homemade plug
and play lol
towrecker: yeah the same thing , and unless you have a light staying on somewhere ,
it's not the LCM that is your issue ...
Won Toot: Are the relays the same for all LCM You said this was for a crown Vic Mine
is a 99 Grand Marquis. I think my relays are stuck on as the battery is
towrecker: They will click when power is applied , they are by default will turn off
any load in either 15,20, or 30 min depending on the year of the module ,
if all your lights switch on , then off as they are supposed to , it is not
a relay issue , sounds like a body harness issue they chafe behind the
right front fender where the harness turns from the relay box , it's common
, and will cause a dead short that will not terminate , unplug the LCM ,
and you will see that the draw is still there I bet ...
Jay Simons: I did a lil Mc'Gyver job and made a desoldering vacuum attachment with a
metal pen, a pill bottle and duct tape, worked like a charm and kept the
board I was workin on cooler which is always nice but the solder will clog
it up after a while.
David Blowers: Just a tip on the copper braid - dip it in a little flux before use and the
solder will wick right into it super fast.
Won Toot: I have a large voltage draw & when I pull fuse 8 it drops The LCM is on
that fuse & I can here the relay click on when I plug it back.
towrecker: then you have the hot switched lights , not relay controlled , and no you
can't take it out , it will if I remember right kill the dash light circuit
...was this car an ex police car ? and are you sure something is not tapped
into one of the wires to the wiper delay controller , as that's what you
said was clicking , a dropped voltage , or ground will cause relays to go
towrecker: but they do go through the " multi function switch" better known as the
turn signal , wiper , washer , high beam switch , they do go bad , they are
not cheap , so check all the other stuff I mentioned first by the way ,
there are only 3 lights , if optioned, that are not run through the LCM
they are , the pillar mounted spot light , the aux interior light "ticket
light" and the brake lights ...
towrecker: it's your call whatever you wanna do ...
ryan12689: I plan to go a different route with my LCM repair. I was going to solder a
5 pin relay socket onto the board, and make the relays external.
Steven Baker: I forgot to mention that All other lights work fine except the back-up
roltyd22: The solder on the board doesn't look like it's ever been redone,but i could
Jon B.: I dropped my soldering iron one time and did the samething you did. Grabbed
it by the hot tip. It still goes on the floor because that hurts!
roltyd22: i googled the #,it's a dam wiper comtrol module.
towrecker: no , it has no computer parts , it is just a big fancy switch , that's the
best way to put it in simple english lol
roltyd22: why would that be clicking and going nuts when the lights are acting up?
towrecker: and I will try and see if I can get a good cross on the number to make
double sure you don't have some weird ass oddball one lol
Thor Jensen: Yeah, I've seen a few of those external mods, but I don't like anything
that doesn't look at least factory'ish lol. Although having a socket would
be nice if it ever needs to be changed again. There's actually another vid
on here an amigo did with a relay from Advance Auto that he tucked up
inside the box and resulted in a nice, clean looking repair.
towrecker: belts towing gmail
roltyd22: F3LF-17D539-AA # ON BOX
towrecker: excuse me , I am not a damn tweaker , or junked out as you say , but I will
inform you that I am a freakING HILLBILLY , that owns a GUN , so go hide
Robert Lichtscheidl: Sorry about that. Mouser gave me the wrong relay number. The ones I put in
my LCM were EQ1-22111S which is supposed to be a direct replacement of the
ones you bought. $2.28 each. As I mentioned it fixed the light problem but
now my turn signals don't work and won't light in the dash. My dad has an
extra LCM from a 04 Grand Mar. and I will install the new (used) box
instead of re-repairing mine. Bummer my worked ended in more problems.
sexychocalate1982: lol i looked its still there
Ridge97: just think how many people would replace the whole box...good video jason
towrecker: do those pin out right ? the superceeded part seems to have enough rating
to make a good alternative , fill me in buddy if ya would , so I can
annotate my video here , I still have a pile of the exact relays laying
here , when mouser put them on the discontinued list , I bought all they
had left ;)
towrecker: if you have the plastic switch , replace it , ford recalled that design ...
towrecker: the damn auto lamp , never thought about that , you can crap can the relay
for it , and forget you ever had it , I do know that , the photo cell in
the dash has went bad I would bet money , hell you got an easy fix it
sounds like then ;)
SuperElgordo1: What are thoughs four parts to order off of mouser.com
Thor Jensen: Any update on this? I'd like a solid verification before I delve into this.
towrecker: and email you a pic of the modification , as I can crack a bad lcm , and
just build it , and snap a few pics , it's a small pain to have to drill
the hole and jump a small lead back to the correct location , but it's easy
enough , if I remember those relays are rated way over kill too , which
could prove to be a good thing actually ...there is also the run the wires
outside of the lcm , and use common cube relays , if you just have one
function failing in the lcm , thats an option ...
30pvfd: FYI I did not have to reprogram mine, its a 2005 p71 removed the old relay
with copper braid sodered wires to it wa laa works like a charm thanks
again for the video
FrankTheCat: desolder suckers are better when sucking up large amounts of solder imo.
make sure to get one with a metal tip unless you like the smell of melted