MrHayward2000: where's the cooling side of it......they run on a difference in temps
Areal Person: OMG - Thats sooooo funny, your a natural :)
Isaac Karjala: multiplying the open circuit voltage by the short circuit current, isn't going to give you power.... secondly, the high temps you are getting are because there is no current flowing, when connected to a load, the load will get hot instead... thirdly, you should make sure that the only way for heat to get from your hot plate to your heat sink is through you r peltier.
doc bang: And I get ~94 V.
This is much cheaper than photovoltaics, more durable (no hail storm can hurt the Peltier thermocouple assemblies) And I believe the Peltiers will last 100 years or more vs. 25 years for a photovoltaic panel.
Pump water thru a solar hot water heater panel at night (elevated a foot or so from the ground) and you will be AMAZED at how cold the water will get.
Use this cool water to further help cool the cold side of the peltier and you will begin to generate real voltage!!
doc bang: Ditch the parabolic reflector, paint the hot side of the Peltier black (I think you already did that) and expose the hot, black side of the Peltier directly to the sun.
This will generate all the heat you need and, more importantly, shade the cool side, allowing a heat differential to exist which will give the Seabourg effect the best chance of success.
I do the same thing with about 130 Peltiers, arranging the array of Peltiers in a single, flat plane so that all are directly exposed to the sun
Bradley Kempton: don't buy solar panels prior to watching this educating video. google "mike lewis diy solar" and see for yourself
Giulio Ferreguetti: I'm gonna tell you, please don't do any comparison again, or if you do, be more like engineer and not like an amateur... waste of time from my behalf and yours...
Stuart Kerr: It may not help that your hot side is reflective, and the cool side is black, absorbing heat. All in all, quite impressive!
snaz27: Glad you see you experimenting with this... I want to share an idea with you and maybe you will have a go...
So you take a raw solar cell, attach maybe 2 of those modules, teg2 would be better due to the low temp it works with...
Then you use a water cooled heat sink and run your mains cold water through it...
The heat sink would be facing away from the sun for a start which would help greatly and I believe the water cooling would be much better.
What you think?
docchocobo: You need to increase the difference between hot and cold side activate the fan to unload the heat from the cold side
Buffalochips68: turn the fan on ay nummy
politics999: shade the cold side, duh!
solaroneproject: you can use thicker aluminum in black color on the dish side to keep it warmer and a bigger light color on the outside to keep it cool. you just need a parabolic mirror instead of that dish you will probably get similar results to solar panels. also result will depend on the quality of the Tec.
filear: I agree, my heat synch sucked.
lykenth08: Ok - so good effort but one big ass flaw.... your using a BLACK heatsink thats exposed to the sun on the side you want cold.
TheDarwitch: did you ever tried to shield the heatsinks from the sun. I noticed they where black as well. I do it myself but you got the gear already and this is why we do what we do and share to help others :) also good placement or not anyfan may help with energy output. Just suggesting simple changes i know in my work little changes have made very different results some better and others not so good
1foxtrot70: That is an excellent idea! The cooling side of the TEC by water, or 50/50 antifreeze mixture, cooled plate circulated into an insulated tank for heat storage during day time and reverse flow for night time power generation. Evening output would be less but, for gathering as much energy as you can for battery charging, great!
KyleCarrington: 600 mA and .8V is great! If you double that (series), let's say 1.6V and 600 mA, you can easily use a boost converter oscillator to give you workable power, possibly 6V @ 100 mA or so. Here's a thought, take that dish and concentrate it's heat on a black painted vessle of high ratio (saturated) salt water of some kind that will go up to maybe 300 degrees. Have a tube that rises in elevation to a bigger heat dissapator mounted in the shade, behind the dish where you collect the power.
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TheSolarmike: Your fan and heatsink are black and they are being irradiated with sunlight as well. You need to put a white material over them to shade them. Then you will get a much larger differential of heat and therefore more power. Try this again and make another video. Thanks
bulletproof2353: or a boiler with a steam turbine ,stirling engine needs to be cooled too though, also i think you need a better cooling system ,a bigger heatsync or a water pump and maybe a cpu waterblock or a home made equivalent ,i bet that would up the juice a bit, but im not sure if there is a better TEG,,so are they all peltiers essentially? or are there ones that run on heat alone and dont need cooling on one side?
bulletproof2353: @filear so are peltiers the only TEG"S? i mean are there any that you can just heat,and dont need to cool 1 side?or are they all just peltiers running in reverse?
i was thinking of doing something similar with 2 fresnel lenses i got from old rear projection tvs and a sun tracker to keep them pointed and focused, but i see that the peltiers wont work thanks to your video, way too inefficient, but i bet if you used mylar on that dich you could get the temp up to 4or 500 and use a stirling engine
HarryHydro: Cool stuff. We use TEGs where we have no electric. A natural gas flame heats the one side HOT. A hugh heatsink dissipates as much heat as possible. The heat sink is by far the largest component. The electric regulator part is a compromise. It holds a load across the peltier to move just enough heat to the heat sink to keep the solder from melting. If you pull an external load, this regulator works like a boost converter. It's good for 20 watts or so.
columbuskiter: Cool stuff - did you try this with the fan running from an external source to see how large of a temperature difference you could achieve?
lennchma: I mean you should protect HOT side from additional warming from the sun. Try some cardboard or something,.
lennchma: your black radiator is getting warm from the sun, so a thermal difference is getting smaller. You should protect cool side from the sun.
boxa888: aww i wanted to do this too, with iron and copper wires wrapped together on a large satillite dish, like 10 ft :) there should be some energy from that baby! good job. if u got time look up the iron copper thermocouples, the first real heat sink energy producers, from simple materials..
shortyumpire: put a shade over the cold side as well. It seems to be placed in direct sun!
OddlyIncredible: Peltier modules work by temperature differentials - you NEED to cool the cold side when heating the hot side if you intend to use a Peltier module as a generator. I have a 172W Peltier that can produce upwards of 60W with a temp differential of ~150F (280F hot side, 130F cold) thanks to a beefy heatsink/fan, which is WAY more power per surface area than solar and WAY cheaper per watt.
p00pindas00p: Spraypaint your heatsink white!
electrodacus: You can use a heat accumulator as water or solid like concrete and then the advantage is that is easier to keep a constant temperature and lower so you will not melt the Peltier also you can generate power all the time even at night or cloudy day if you have sufficient thermal mass to accumulate the heat when is sunny.
So this is an advantage since you can not store light for solar panels but you can store heat for peltier.
spyingwind: What about hooking up the peltier to the fan? Peltier powers the fan, fan cools the heat sink, heat sink help make the heat difference greater, the fan get more power.
xmicina: Hi. Great experiment. You can use mirors to increase output of solar cell(do not over 1,4 factor without adequate aditive cooling on solar(it will bake itself in 1.6 overloading with sun. There is solution, insert solar cell betwen two glass, fill with water and connect water with standart radiator, this will cool solar and you can overreach power may be by factor 5 - 20 or 30.
Your heatsink on peltier is not big enough to transfer all heat from dish(cover part of reflector with mask).
ronmann606: .6V X .6A you had to stop the camera and go do the math? lol j/k. I like this vid cuz I was trying to find power output and lots of people on YT just measure voltage to decide how much power it makes which is stupid. For example I think my car door handle puts out 1000V when it shocks me but theres little power.
larry785: The front plate needs to be a block of copper about 1/2 inch thick, the heat sink on the back should be water cooled.
filear: I agree, I have also aquired some better heatsinks to play with. I will try to make time to experrement some more.
rikkiesix: HI there
I think you need to cool your coolside more.
What you can try is to attach a metal bucket ( aluminum ) filled with water to keep the side that is facing the sun right now cool
That will give you a bigger difference in temperature and therefor greater output.
Keep us posted
Greetings from Belgium
John Gelp: You are letting the sun hit the heatsink on the cold side which is a very bad thing to do, most of the problem is the heatsink, also make sure the peltier is in the correct possition and not turned on the other way around, the side of the letters is the HOT side.
filear: You are correct in thinking that you can increase the output of a PV panel using mirrors or Fresnel lenses, the draw back is the panel can over heat and burn up if you overdo it. Good idea though someone should do some experiments.
BryansU2B: why not use a solar panel in the center where the peltier device is.
Mirrors are probably cheaper than more cells right?
tulcod: would be pretty sweet if you could give units, or at least the physical quantity you're talking about next time :)