Talha Kamran: Peltier modules work on thermoelectric so you cannot compare them with
Solar panels :)
I played a lot with them. The best application is put them in series with
heatsinks and install them somewhere on your cooking stove. Then have them
power your exhaust or LED lights on stove.
Tore Lund: Sorry to criticize your math, but short circuit current says noting about
power as the voltage is minuscule over the short. Likewise, open circuit
voltage says nothing about power either as there is only running nanoamps
through a digital multimeter:
You need two meters: 1 measuring amps in series and one measuring volts in
parallel, and then you need powering a resistive load, like a bulb ( in
this case a flashlight bulb will do)!
You then multiply these simultaneous readings for volt and amps and you get
exact numbers. Your figures, measuring like you do now are too high, but
wilho saari: You need to make te surface of the disk with chrome vinyl so it can create
very hot focal point... then you gotta bolt on a modern heatpipe cpu
cooler. Greater te heat difference on ether side the grater the effiency.
Eisen Faust: First, it looked like you had an ungodly gob of thermal interface grease
between the peltier and the heatsink. This is suboptimal. You want a very
thin film, as the grease isn't as good a conductor as the heatsink itself.
Its purpose is to interface the parts of the peltier that aren't touching
the heatsink completely (because you can't make the surface perfectly
Next, if you have a small temperature difference between the sides of the
peltier, you should have the fan going. The point of the fan is to decrease
the temperature of the heatsink, which makes the heatsink resist the flow
of heat less. The higher the temperature difference (for a given setup),
the easier it is for heat to flow and the more energy your peltier can
Ideally, you're not using a Peltier, though - you'd be using a Seebeck
device, a.k.a. a TEG.
Adrian Georgescu: Wooooo!!! you don't multiply the open-circuit voltage with the
short-circuit current to get the wattage !!! ... put some load resistors
and measure the current and voltage at the same time !!
Mel Wel: So yeah, while taking temperature/watt/volt/amp readings - never hooking up
the PC fan to dump heat from the TEG's cold side - you fried a perfectly
good Peltier chip. I love solar PV and evacuated tube tech a lot, too,
but you'll find that TEC and TEG are more elegant, and with full
comprehension of how they work, how to maintain maximum temperature
gradients, plus how to integrate them with compatible systems, like
piezoelectric generators, you realize they will eventually arrive at the
top of the heap of alternative renewable energy systems.
Douglas Hayse: man you need to submerge the cold side in an open water pool in the shade
the evaporation will also aid in cooling it faster attach a fan over the
pool of water that would put you in right direction.... and btw you dont
need heat just a temp difference. one could develop this system to work
well in the arctic as the ground is always warmer than the air you could
make banks of those as a geothermal electrothermal hybrid that would
provide free energy almost forever.....
Buzz Werd: Try using a paint can full of water for the cold side and be sure to shade
it, maybe make an evaporation pot to cool it. Getting sun heat to the other
side will be a bit problematic but a flat mirror and/or lens just might do
if you're using a cheap Peltier wafer(s) then you need to limit the heat
difference. I would go with heat water to boiling on one side and use cool
water at the coldest on the other, some cooling wafers can only take
70-some-C difference. The neat part of that is that if you heat enough
water then the rig will run even after the sun has gone down. Look into
using a trough reflector to heat a water pipe.
QBMan: well the thing is you first read voltage, then current. better do it
simultaniusly to get your real power (watts) cause you shortet the output,
which leads to voltage drop as far as i can see that O_o
PlanetPresident: you are heating both sides, shade the cold side! Then try again
naab007: peltier systems require a good cooling agent.. something like water.. put a
few of those in series around a furnace and have cool water piped through
on the other side and you will have a decent alternative.. it won't be
nearly as efficient as solar panels but as an addition it should do fine..
HarryHydro: Cool stuff. We use TEGs where we have no electric. A natural gas flame
heats the one side HOT. A hugh heatsink dissipates as much heat as
possible. The heat sink is by far the largest component. The electric
regulator part is a compromise. It holds a load across the peltier to move
just enough heat to the heat sink to keep the solder from melting. If you
pull an external load, this regulator works like a boost converter. It's
good for 20 watts or so.
TheSolarmike: Your fan and heatsink are black and they are being irradiated with sunlight
as well. You need to put a white material over them to shade them. Then you
will get a much larger differential of heat and therefore more power. Try
this again and make another video. Thanks
ronmann606: .6V X .6A you had to stop the camera and go do the math? lol j/k. I like
this vid cuz I was trying to find power output and lots of people on YT
just measure voltage to decide how much power it makes which is stupid. For
example I think my car door handle puts out 1000V when it shocks me but
theres little power.
bulletproof2353: or a boiler with a steam turbine ,stirling engine needs to be cooled too
though, also i think you need a better cooling system ,a bigger heatsync or
a water pump and maybe a cpu waterblock or a home made equivalent ,i bet
that would up the juice a bit, but im not sure if there is a better TEG,,so
are they all peltiers essentially? or are there ones that run on heat alone
and dont need cooling on one side?
OddlyIncredible: Peltier modules work by temperature differentials - you NEED to cool the
cold side when heating the hot side if you intend to use a Peltier module
as a generator. I have a 172W Peltier that can produce upwards of 60W with
a temp differential of ~150F (280F hot side, 130F cold) thanks to a beefy
heatsink/fan, which is WAY more power per surface area than solar and WAY
cheaper per watt.
lennchma: @lennchma I mean you should protect HOT side from additional warming from
the sun. Try some cardboard or something,.
rikkiesix: HI there I think you need to cool your coolside more. What you can try is
to attach a metal bucket ( aluminum ) filled with water to keep the side
that is facing the sun right now cool That will give you a bigger
difference in temperature and therefor greater output. Keep us posted
Greetings from Belgium Erik
solaroneproject: you can use thicker aluminum in black color on the dish side to keep it
warmer and a bigger light color on the outside to keep it cool. you just
need a parabolic mirror instead of that dish you will probably get similar
results to solar panels. also result will depend on the quality of the Tec.
xmicina: Hi. Great experiment. You can use mirors to increase output of solar
cell(do not over 1,4 factor without adequate aditive cooling on solar(it
will bake itself in 1.6 overloading with sun. There is solution, insert
solar cell betwen two glass, fill with water and connect water with
standart radiator, this will cool solar and you can overreach power may be
by factor 5 - 20 or 30. Your heatsink on peltier is not big enough to
transfer all heat from dish(cover part of reflector with mask).
lykenth08: Ok - so good effort but one big ass flaw.... your using a BLACK heatsink
thats exposed to the sun on the side you want cold.
tulcod: would be pretty sweet if you could give units, or at least the physical
quantity you're talking about next time :)
electronhacks: I agree, my heat synch sucked.
boxa888: aww i wanted to do this too, with iron and copper wires wrapped together on
a large satillite dish, like 10 ft :) there should be some energy from that
baby! good job. if u got time look up the iron copper thermocouples, the
first real heat sink energy producers, from simple materials..
doc bang: And I get ~94 V. This is much cheaper than photovoltaics, more durable (no
hail storm can hurt the Peltier thermocouple assemblies) And I believe the
Peltiers will last 100 years or more vs. 25 years for a photovoltaic panel.
Pump water thru a solar hot water heater panel at night (elevated a foot or
so from the ground) and you will be AMAZED at how cold the water will get.
Use this cool water to further help cool the cold side of the peltier and
you will begin to generate real voltage!!
columbuskiter: Cool stuff - did you try this with the fan running from an external source
to see how large of a temperature difference you could achieve?
spyingwind: What about hooking up the peltier to the fan? Peltier powers the fan, fan
cools the heat sink, heat sink help make the heat difference greater, the
fan get more power.
TheDarwitch: did you ever tried to shield the heatsinks from the sun. I noticed they
where black as well. I do it myself but you got the gear already and this
is why we do what we do and share to help others :) also good placement or
not anyfan may help with energy output. Just suggesting simple changes i
know in my work little changes have made very different results some better
and others not so good
Giulio Ferreguetti: I'm gonna tell you, please don't do any comparison again, or if you do, be
more like engineer and not like an amateur... waste of time from my behalf
Phil hayward: where's the cooling side of it......they run on a difference in temps
electronhacks: @rikkiesix I agree, I have also aquired some better heatsinks to play with.
I will try to make time to experrement some more.
p00pindas00p: Spraypaint your heatsink white!
bulletproof2353: @filear so are peltiers the only TEG"S? i mean are there any that you can
just heat,and dont need to cool 1 side?or are they all just peltiers
running in reverse? i was thinking of doing something similar with 2
fresnel lenses i got from old rear projection tvs and a sun tracker to keep
them pointed and focused, but i see that the peltiers wont work thanks to
your video, way too inefficient, but i bet if you used mylar on that dich
you could get the temp up to 4or 500 and use a stirling engine
Stuart Kerr: It may not help that your hot side is reflective, and the cool side is
black, absorbing heat. All in all, quite impressive!
Mike Schmidt: @electrodacus That is an excellent idea! The cooling side of the TEC by
water, or 50/50 antifreeze mixture, cooled plate circulated into an
insulated tank for heat storage during day time and reverse flow for night
time power generation. Evening output would be less but, for gathering as
much energy as you can for battery charging, great!
Buffalochips68: turn the fan on ay nummy
Areal Person: OMG - Thats sooooo funny, your a natural :)
doc bang: Ditch the parabolic reflector, paint the hot side of the Peltier black (I
think you already did that) and expose the hot, black side of the Peltier
directly to the sun. This will generate all the heat you need and, more
importantly, shade the cool side, allowing a heat differential to exist
which will give the Seabourg effect the best chance of success. I do the
same thing with about 130 Peltiers, arranging the array of Peltiers in a
single, flat plane so that all are directly exposed to the sun
larry785: The front plate needs to be a block of copper about 1/2 inch thick, the
heat sink on the back should be water cooled.
lennchma: your black radiator is getting warm from the sun, so a thermal difference
is getting smaller. You should protect cool side from the sun.
Isaac Karjala: multiplying the open circuit voltage by the short circuit current, isn't
going to give you power.... secondly, the high temps you are getting are
because there is no current flowing, when connected to a load, the load
will get hot instead... thirdly, you should make sure that the only way for
heat to get from your hot plate to your heat sink is through you r peltier.
electronhacks: @BryansU2B You are correct in thinking that you can increase the output of
a PV panel using mirrors or Fresnel lenses, the draw back is the panel can
over heat and burn up if you overdo it. Good idea though someone should do
John Gelp: You are letting the sun hit the heatsink on the cold side which is a very
bad thing to do, most of the problem is the heatsink, also make sure the
peltier is in the correct possition and not turned on the other way around,
the side of the letters is the HOT side.
shortyumpire: put a shade over the cold side as well. It seems to be placed in direct sun!
politics999: shade the cold side, duh!
snaz27: Glad you see you experimenting with this... I want to share an idea with
you and maybe you will have a go... So you take a raw solar cell, attach
maybe 2 of those modules, teg2 would be better due to the low temp it works
with... Then you use a water cooled heat sink and run your mains cold water
through it... The heat sink would be facing away from the sun for a start
which would help greatly and I believe the water cooling would be much
better. What you think?
electrodacus: You can use a heat accumulator as water or solid like concrete and then the
advantage is that is easier to keep a constant temperature and lower so you
will not melt the Peltier also you can generate power all the time even at
night or cloudy day if you have sufficient thermal mass to accumulate the
heat when is sunny. So this is an advantage since you can not store light
for solar panels but you can store heat for peltier.
docchocobo: You need to increase the difference between hot and cold side activate the
fan to unload the heat from the cold side
KyleCarrington: 600 mA and .8V is great! If you double that (series), let's say 1.6V and
600 mA, you can easily use a boost converter oscillator to give you
workable power, possibly 6V @ 100 mA or so. Here's a thought, take that
dish and concentrate it's heat on a black painted vessle of high ratio
(saturated) salt water of some kind that will go up to maybe 300 degrees.
Have a tube that rises in elevation to a bigger heat dissapator mounted in
the shade, behind the dish where you collect the power.