Otha Langenfeld: I bought instruction from inplix and I built it very cheap.
Vivid Media: The greater the heat differential between each side the higher the voltage is generated. Get more air flowing over the heat sync and put a mirror in front of it so it reflects any sun light hitting it, also too much thermal paste results in it doing the opposite of what it's suppose to do ;)
Latonya Hardt: I check a lot of eco handbooks. Those one from INPLIX are the best.
Vladimir Nachev: omg put some shade on that black heatsink please
Margert Reisenbeck: Check InpliX handbook if you want to make it cheaper and better.
jhonatas carvalho: real mirrors 10cm has more efficiency
blaegme: Your power generation would be improved if you used a clear lens so the cool side was out of the sun. You could also stick a solar panel on the sunny side, so your doubling down on the generatior types.
Ronnie Paul: so the Peltier does not even create enough power to run the heatsink fan mounted on the cold side...
sanshinron: You've used waaaay to much thermal paste... You would get better thermal conductivity by using as little as possible. The purpose of thermal paste is to maximize contact surface on microscopic level. Even the best pastes are worse at conducting the heat than the heatsink itself.
хухры мухры: Америкосы такие тупые, нахрена брать черный радиатор который должен охлаждать элемент, когда он сам нагревается на солнце, я все сказал
Talha Kamran: Peltier modules work on thermoelectric so you cannot compare them with Solar panels :) I played a lot with them. The best application is put them in series with heatsinks and install them somewhere on your cooking stove. Then have them power your exhaust or LED lights on stove.
wilho saari: You need to make te surface of the disk with chrome vinyl so it can create very hot focal point... then you gotta bolt on a modern heatpipe cpu cooler. Greater te heat difference on ether side the grater the effiency.
Tore Lund: Sorry to criticize your math, but short circuit current says noting about power as the voltage is minuscule over the short. Likewise, open circuit voltage says nothing about power either as there is only running nanoamps through a digital multimeter:
You need two meters: 1 measuring amps in series and one measuring volts in parallel, and then you need powering a resistive load, like a bulb ( in this case a flashlight bulb will do)! You then multiply these simultaneous readings for volt and amps and you get exact numbers. Your figures, measuring like you do now are too high, but nevertheless impressive.
Eisen Faust: First, it looked like you had an ungodly gob of thermal interface grease between the peltier and the heatsink. This is suboptimal. You want a very thin film, as the grease isn't as good a conductor as the heatsink itself. Its purpose is to interface the parts of the peltier that aren't touching the heatsink completely (because you can't make the surface perfectly smooth).
Next, if you have a small temperature difference between the sides of the peltier, you should have the fan going. The point of the fan is to decrease the temperature of the heatsink, which makes the heatsink resist the flow of heat less. The higher the temperature difference (for a given setup), the easier it is for heat to flow and the more energy your peltier can capture.
Ideally, you're not using a Peltier, though - you'd be using a Seebeck device, a.k.a. a TEG.
Mel Wel: So yeah, while taking temperature/watt/volt/amp readings - never hooking up the PC fan to dump heat from the TEG's cold side - you fried a perfectly good Peltier chip. I love solar PV and evacuated tube tech a lot, too, but you'll find that TEC and TEG are more elegant, and with full comprehension of how they work, how to maintain maximum temperature gradients, plus how to integrate them with compatible systems, like piezoelectric generators, you realize they will eventually arrive at the top of the heap of alternative renewable energy systems.
Adrian Georgescu: Wooooo!!! you don't multiply the open-circuit voltage with the short-circuit current to get the wattage !!! ... put some load resistors and measure the current and voltage at the same time !!
Buzz Werd: Try using a paint can full of water for the cold side and be sure to shade it, maybe make an evaporation pot to cool it. Getting sun heat to the other side will be a bit problematic but a flat mirror and/or lens just might do the trick.
if you're using a cheap Peltier wafer(s) then you need to limit the heat difference. I would go with heat water to boiling on one side and use cool water at the coldest on the other, some cooling wafers can only take 70-some-C difference. The neat part of that is that if you heat enough water then the rig will run even after the sun has gone down. Look into using a trough reflector to heat a water pipe.
Douglas Hayse: man you need to submerge the cold side in an open water pool in the shade the evaporation will also aid in cooling it faster attach a fan over the pool of water that would put you in right direction.... and btw you dont need heat just a temp difference. one could develop this system to work well in the arctic as the ground is always warmer than the air you could make banks of those as a geothermal electrothermal hybrid that would provide free energy almost forever.....
PlanetPresident: you are heating both sides, shade the cold side! Then try again
Peltier Energy Generator. Solar pannel alternative.5
out of 5