Street Avenger Holley Bog Problem Explained!




People Who Liked This Video Also Liked

street avenger holley bog problem explained!
street avenger holley bog problem explained!
Holley Ultra Street Avenger Carburetor
Holley Ultra Street Avenger Carburetor
Holley Street Avenger. Model 4150. List 0-80670. 670 CFM 4-Barrel/Vacuum Secondary
Holley Street Avenger. Model 4150. List 0-80670. 670 CFM 4-Barrel/Vacuum Secondary
Holley Ultra Street Carburetors
Holley Ultra Street Carburetors
How To Adjust The Idle Mixture Screws On Holley Carburetors
How To Adjust The Idle Mixture Screws On Holley Carburetors

Did this video help you?

MOTORHEAD8835: 770 CFM & not a single issue.. Throttle response is so crisp you'd swear the engine is fuel injected. ­čĹŹ´╗┐

Nikola Tesla: I have a 1969 Mach 1 with a 390fe What Holley would you advise? Thanks´╗┐

Lennie Phister: easy fix! just bend the pump arm down onto the pump cam´╗┐

The real DudzFryd: I'm done with Street Avenger carbs. They're throw away units. Works great for a few thousand miles but when it comes time to rebuild it's just not worth it. My 670 worked great till one day it suddenly just gave up after 9K miles. I still have it in my garage and it looks really pretty with brand new everything from not 1 but 2 rebuild kits but there was nothing I could do to fix it when I discovered a huge vacuum leak caused by a hidden crack in the carb main body. It was so bad I thought I'd sucked a valve in the motor. New ignition system didn't fix anything either. It was the carb, no question about it now and that was after replacing $125 worth of parts that probably didn't need to be replaced but I wanted to be absolutely sure it wasn't something else. Slapped my old Carter AFB back on and voila! carb problem's gone. No more vacuum leak and dumping fuel out the tailpipe. Wasted $70 on parts including new brass floats. Lesson here is, go with an Edelbrock or just switch to TBI.´╗┐

Brandon McJeeperson: I have the same problems with my Holley 670 truck avenger. Ran rich out of the box, and bad low end stumble. I had to bend the linkage with some pliers in order to make contact with the accelerator pump at the right time. It's much better than it was but the stumble is still there... for now.´╗┐

Jeremy Thompson: I had the same issue with the arm riding on the spring on my 670 avenger. I had an old 600 holley laying around, and I pulled the arm off of it. It was different than the avenger arm..it swapped right on, and the arm now rests on the pump cam properly using the older arm´╗┐

Chris Ross: i as well have a bad stumble issue as well sa 670 ´╗┐

Brandon Bates: Your problem is a easy fix. You just have to know what and how to adjust to fix it.´╗┐

Ed Cady: Why don't you put fuel regulator on there. 4 pounds is plenty of pressure for that carburetor´╗┐

Lanc Mac: Too bad you guys are having these problems.. If you want to get rid of these I will take them.´╗┐

PColaBob107: I currently have a 600cfm 1850 on the motor now which I feel may be too big for a 283. What is your opinion? I need to fool with it and set it back to original Holley specs and start from scratch as it was running very rich.

PColaBob107: Thanks for the advice. I'll fool with it a bit and let you know how it goes.

ThunderHead289: seems a bit much to be running 80s on the primary side. but every engine is different. do you have the hollow squirt screw? id look into that engine timing. try ten or twelve degrees before top dead center with the biggest stop bushing you have with a blue and silver spring. timing has to be pretty close for proper carb adjustment

ThunderHead289: idk if you have seen the rest of my videos, but that's definitely not how I am. if you type in holley carb to google, my adjustment basics vid is the first video to appear. the issue is that you can adjust the air bleeds. the fixed air bleeds are quite lean. its not performance and it never can be. I run a 650 dp now and its awesome.

ThunderHead289: I don't know why your comment is being blocked but hell yes!!! I very VERY much agree. these arnt metered properly for crap. I have found holleys to be very fuel pressure sensitive...

Ross DeLauro: Try switching a blue cam in position number one. these carbs come with the orange cam on position number 2 which delays your pump. the blue cam will make it spray fuel as soon as the throttle linkage moves, it will also keep you lever from riding on the spring first. Once you do all of that try changing you discharge nozzle to a smaller nozzle, this will make the duration of the shot longer....

Joseph Kalavas: This is freak HOLLEY .Did you ever call holley,what Did they say. You are more teck minded,Plus you know there cabs.They could talk cicrels around me.And get me so confused,I would have to say your right Because of teck terms.I don't understand.Thank's for your reply.I'm 60 and remember When I could tune a carb by ear.Those days are over I guss.I try to make it simple .I drive a 1975 C10.rrd- auto.just droped in GM crate moter.Now I here the moters are built in Mexcio.BULLcrap. ----Thank's Dude

Joseph Kalavas: My holey sucks to The carb had a bog off the line .I called holley they said put a bigger shot I went up 1 and still have this problem.called 5 times,lack of reps nowhow. $ 400.00- down the tube.I have same issue as you do to.droped in the truck new good wrench 350-then it racied 4500 rpm.got that down to 1600.I HATE this carb.holley they really stepted on it this time.And still selling same carb, no improvments That I saw any way.And I'm broke ,freak you holley. Thanks for the vid man .

ThunderHead289: hope you find the right set up. its hard for me to give viable info and to diagnose over a computer when every engine is different. I would suggest playing with the timing a bit. if you can do it without pinging, set your initial timing to ten to twelve degrees before tdc on account of your mild cam before and have all timing in by 2500 to 3000. if your timing is at all retarded from what your cam wants, your engine will seem to run rich as well.

ThunderHead289: thanks will give this a go. i do have an old 28 laying around and some cams including the blue. appreciate it.

KamiLynnTv: My dad is working on a 1981 corvette approximately 300 hp got a 570 street avenger. He has been having all kinds of problems with the bog and idol jets backing out. He wants to know if you have experienced problems when you get everything set right the idol is good at 900 with the cam we have, shut the car off, start it back up 5 minutes later. The idol will be at 500 sometimes, and 1500 other times. My dad is going to try to return the Holley, and go with a quick flow carborator. Thanks you :)

ThunderHead289: a lot of people are not aware of this problem because they do not have their carb set up correctly. from the factory these come with the secondarys totally closed, so the primaries are cranked open really far eliminating this problem. but when the secondarys are opened to allow for even air flow, the primary blades are closed down more, and this is where the problem shows itself. most people never mess with the secondarys but the factory config was unacceptable on these carbs.

ThunderHead289: I want to point out that im as good at tuning as it gets. mine was a new carb. some are good some are bad. quality control was a fail. I ended up bending that lever just a bit so it was off the spring. its just not a performance carb its metered too lean. I stuck this carb on my stock 302 and adjusted it to run perfectly. I put a double pumper on my 289 and adjusted it to run flawlessly. its just not a performance carb. its metered for efficiency not power.

THEWIERDNEWSCHANNEL: Remove the spring & replace with a stiffer spring.

ThunderHead289: I would think a number 38 nozzle with a hollow screw and a pair of 65-68 primaries would get it where it needs to be. I believe you have an off idle issue more than anything. change the distributor springs and stop bushing to the lighter silvers or blues and insert the black bushing I believe. set it to 15btdc with the vac advance connected for now(to ported not man vac) check out my holley tuning video about what I say with the secondary blades at idle. this NEEDS to be fixed FIRST.

ThunderHead289: don't worry I get that a lot. there must have been a bad line of these a few years back. believe me I had everything set up correctly. I have since installed a brand new street avenger on a buddies bronco and when I set it up it did not have this problem, in fact that spring was smaller. it was a very strange deal to be sure. thanks for the concerns I appreciate your input

Gary Ross: I have mechanical advance. Played with it when I installed the distributor but can't remember what the settings are. Need to pick up new kit. My timing light shows fast curve but short to only 25btc. I am going to put a 38 nozzle in tomorrow and see what happens. I will install a hollow screw as well if it is in stock. Thanks for the replies.

Randall Evans: Do u need a space plate for every carb?

ThunderHead289: hey this does not work just to let everyone know. cant use to big of pump cam because it will push the diaphram too far thus wearing it out sooner.

themilkmankd: thanks for posting the vid i got a off idle stumble that was driving me nuts thought i fixed it the best i could till i seen this vid and its a 750 street hp took the carb off and the same problem with the pump cam and spring so its not just the s/a carbs did you just bend the arm sideways a little and it worked ?

KianJorry: Ok your spot on with the ultra avenger issues. On my engine the thing ran rich out of the box so bad it was eye burning. Had to crack open the secondaries so the mixture screws worked. Yeah I have the of idle stumble your talking about. I looked at the pump cam and noticed exactly the issue your talking about where the lever is running on the spring. Whoever designed that should be flogged. I m thinking of narrowing the cam lever to miss the spring.....change to another cam from the green one..

ThunderHead289: this should help alot of things since now the primary transfer slots are not so overly exposed. when i get some time i will pull the 670 and do the same things. idid not meanto insult i appreciate the help. i justsee that there isnt enough duration for the blue cam(tho it did hit right away), i justworry about not knowing i would be leaking gas onto the manifold or something potentially. im fearful to go against tollerance ratings.

awsom70: I often find the arms need a lil bending and adjusting etc especially when changing pump cams or converting to a 50 or 70 cc acc pump for race of e85 or alky thats not out of the ordinary at all. No carb is right for anyones application of of the box. Dont complain thats its not a performance carb because its metered on the lean side. You bought a "street" avenger! Metering can be changed, its made to be changed every engines different. Carbs arent bolt on and go if you want best performance

ThunderHead289: that is a strange problem. do you have a fuel pressure gauge? seems like the carb is just leaning itself out. if it is lean, make sure you don't have vac leaks and it is not vapor locked. test this by going for a drive with the gas cap off. if its rich, im sure its due to too high of pressure caused by excessive heat, this will overflow the bowls pretty easily. get a read on the plugs to tell either way its hardtop diagnose without being there in person I went with a 600 DP in the end. .

ThunderHead289: this is too ironic. i have an 81 vette sitting in my garage that Im doing an engine rebuild on. the fuel lines are very small and the gallon per hour rating on that system is not that high. I don't think its able to handle 300 ponies. before you return it, find a way to fit a pressure gauge on your fuel system after the pump to see if the fuel supply cant quite keep up. it sounds like a fuel starvation problem. also run it with the gas cap unscrewed to make sure that the problems are not

frankenstang1973: Outstanding! Had a whole world of pain with my 670 SA on a 351c, took a lot of messing about to get it anywhere near right, going to check mine today to see if it's binding on the spring like yours. Did up the squirter size but obviously not the real answer. Did see on a forum some reference to the air passages in the base plate being poorly finished & partially blocked with casting flash. Glad so see it's not just mine giving problems!

AlvinAZ: Oops forgot to say: "cool information about the transition circuit problem, TH. :)" Tired of reading/hearing over and over and over and over "crank up the accelerator pump" to fix what's really a transition circuit problem. :/ So thanks for mentioning it at all, TH. :)

Gary Ross: I have a 670 Street Avenger with the same problem. Thought I was getting to much fuel so I plugged the power valve and reduced the main jets from 68 to 53. The engine shut off when I pressed the gas pedal. Put a 6.5 power valve in and re-jetted to .080 in the primaries. Almost no more stumble. I have .53 discharge nozzle. I am going to change to .57 and see what that does.

Double Red_Rolex: I just bought a street avenger 670 and after some minor tuning its near perfect. You can't say holley "failed" because you bought a used carb and can't get it to work. Check your pump cam and make sure u are using the correct screw holes. Mine works fine new out of the box. Never buy a used carb and expect it to work properly. Street avenger is an awesome carb when it's correctly tuned. Take it to a speed shop and get a professional to tune it if its being that much of a problem.

Thirdgen83: 'Sucks when you don't know what you're doing, huh? I've had 2 Street Avengers and both ran just fine.

IronChefNC: I cant wait to pull this POS crap carb off my car....and use it for target practice

flyinhigh450: I have pretty much the same issue with my 670 SA but mine is while driving..When keeping a consistent speed say 45mph,the car stumbles bad like shes fuel starving.Even when taking off from a dead stop,it stumbles around 1/8th throttle..Im about to toss a Holley 750 DP on and call it a day..

ThunderHead289: no problem bud. i agree freak you holley. i will never buy a vac sec again. slapped a 650 double pumper on and never looked back. these carbs are unbeleivably terrible. i hate how they act like they have never heard of the problem.

ThunderHead289: I honestly think its a timing issue. what springs are in the dizzy? those come stock with the two heaviest springs and the smallest advance stop so its advancing way too slow as well as way to far. but as for the seemingly lean issue, I know the feeling and its just how the street avengers are metered through the air bleeds I believe. I could stand it and put a 600 dp on my 289 and it felt like instant 100 ponies..

ThunderHead289: i never got this fixed the right way. i ended up only being able to use cam position one. your problem will most likely be your transfer slots. the SA carbs are set terribly off on the secondary opening amount at idle. check out my other holley video thats threaded into my bog explanation video. it starts exolaining at 1:30 ish how to set this right.

ThunderHead289: the gas cap would check for vapor lock like a poorly breathing gas tank but you seem smart enough to not have this problem. first id turn it down to 5psi. i run my 11 to1 289 at 4psi all day on the street just fine. it would only take just a bit to blow open the needle and seat and cause this issue. not saying its your problem, but i guarantee its happening. also, pick yourself up a 1inch phenelic spacer. keeps the carb nice and cool and the fuel from percolation in the bowls. il review the vid

PColaBob107: Thunderhead289, I am thinking of going with a Holley SA 570 for my mild 283, headers, powerpacc heads & 4 speed. Was this issue every addressed by Holley? I don't want to jump into a can of worms if there is still no fix for it.

Foxythirtytwo: I'm 99.9% positive you have that accelerator pump cam bolted up using the wrong hole.. Use the #1 hole on the cam in conjunction with the #1 hole on the throttle lever and you'll take all the slack out of your accelerator pump arm... then adjust the accelerator pump lever accordingly (using the springed bolt and nut) so that there's only 15 thou of play.

ThunderHead289: I run a spacer plate on every carb that I have because the heat soak from the intake causes fuel percolation. you do not have to, but I always do unless my intake itself is a high riser

ThunderHead289: you cant on these when its this way. there will still be slop. the cam has to be set to position one. my other holleys dont ride on the spring. only my 2 SA series carbs. think about it, its not going to move until the AP lever contacts the cam. so there will always be that slop, that moment where the plates are opening and it is getting no AP fuel will still be there. whats even wierder is my 570 is much worse than my 670.
Rating:
street avenger holley bog problem explained! 4 out of 5

Featured Video

How to Insulate Walls


street avenger holley bog problem explained!