MOTORHEAD8835: 770 CFM & not a single issue.. Throttle response is so crisp you'd swear
the engine is fuel injected. 👍
Nikola Tesla: I have a 1969 Mach 1 with a 390fe
What Holley would you advise?
Lennie Phister: easy fix! just bend the pump arm down onto the pump cam
The real DudzFryd: I'm done with Street Avenger carbs. They're throw away units. Works great
for a few thousand miles but when it comes time to rebuild it's just not
worth it. My 670 worked great till one day it suddenly just gave up after
9K miles. I still have it in my garage and it looks really pretty with
brand new everything from not 1 but 2 rebuild kits but there was nothing I
could do to fix it when I discovered a huge vacuum leak caused by a hidden
crack in the carb main body. It was so bad I thought I'd sucked a valve in
the motor. New ignition system didn't fix anything either. It was the
carb, no question about it now and that was after replacing $125 worth of
parts that probably didn't need to be replaced but I wanted to be
absolutely sure it wasn't something else.
Slapped my old Carter AFB back on and voila! carb problem's gone. No more
vacuum leak and dumping fuel out the tailpipe. Wasted $70 on parts
including new brass floats. Lesson here is, go with an Edelbrock or just
switch to TBI.
Brandon McJeeperson: I have the same problems with my Holley 670 truck avenger. Ran rich out of
the box, and bad low end stumble. I had to bend the linkage with some
pliers in order to make contact with the accelerator pump at the right
time. It's much better than it was but the stumble is still there... for
Jeremy Thompson: I had the same issue with the arm riding on the spring on my 670 avenger.
I had an old 600 holley laying around, and I pulled the arm off of it. It
was different than the avenger arm..it swapped right on, and the arm now
rests on the pump cam properly using the older arm
Chris Ross: i as well have a bad stumble issue as well sa 670
Brandon Bates: Your problem is a easy fix. You just have to know what and how to adjust to
Ed Cady: Why don't you put fuel regulator on there. 4 pounds is plenty of pressure
for that carburetor
Lanc Mac: Too bad you guys are having these problems.. If you want to get rid of
these I will take them.
PColaBob107: I currently have a 600cfm 1850 on the motor now which I feel may be too big
for a 283. What is your opinion? I need to fool with it and set it back to
original Holley specs and start from scratch as it was running very rich.
PColaBob107: Thanks for the advice. I'll fool with it a bit and let you know how it
ThunderHead289: seems a bit much to be running 80s on the primary side. but every engine is
different. do you have the hollow squirt screw? id look into that engine
timing. try ten or twelve degrees before top dead center with the biggest
stop bushing you have with a blue and silver spring. timing has to be
pretty close for proper carb adjustment
ThunderHead289: idk if you have seen the rest of my videos, but that's definitely not how I
am. if you type in holley carb to google, my adjustment basics vid is the
first video to appear. the issue is that you can adjust the air bleeds. the
fixed air bleeds are quite lean. its not performance and it never can be. I
run a 650 dp now and its awesome.
ThunderHead289: I don't know why your comment is being blocked but hell yes!!! I very VERY
much agree. these arnt metered properly for crap. I have found holleys to
be very fuel pressure sensitive...
Ross DeLauro: Try switching a blue cam in position number one. these carbs come with the
orange cam on position number 2 which delays your pump. the blue cam will
make it spray fuel as soon as the throttle linkage moves, it will also keep
you lever from riding on the spring first. Once you do all of that try
changing you discharge nozzle to a smaller nozzle, this will make the
duration of the shot longer....
Joseph Kalavas: This is freak HOLLEY .Did you ever call holley,what Did they say. You are
more teck minded,Plus you know there cabs.They could talk cicrels around
me.And get me so confused,I would have to say your right Because of teck
terms.I don't understand.Thank's for your reply.I'm 60 and remember When I
could tune a carb by ear.Those days are over I guss.I try to make it simple
.I drive a 1975 C10.rrd- auto.just droped in GM crate moter.Now I here the
moters are built in Mexcio.BULLcrap. ----Thank's Dude
Joseph Kalavas: My holey sucks to The carb had a bog off the line .I called holley they
said put a bigger shot I went up 1 and still have this problem.called 5
times,lack of reps nowhow. $ 400.00- down the tube.I have same issue as you
do to.droped in the truck new good wrench 350-then it racied 4500 rpm.got
that down to 1600.I HATE this carb.holley they really stepted on it this
time.And still selling same carb, no improvments That I saw any way.And I'm
broke ,freak you holley. Thanks for the vid man .
ThunderHead289: hope you find the right set up. its hard for me to give viable info and to
diagnose over a computer when every engine is different. I would suggest
playing with the timing a bit. if you can do it without pinging, set your
initial timing to ten to twelve degrees before tdc on account of your mild
cam before and have all timing in by 2500 to 3000. if your timing is at all
retarded from what your cam wants, your engine will seem to run rich as
ThunderHead289: thanks will give this a go. i do have an old 28 laying around and some cams
including the blue. appreciate it.
KamiLynnTv: My dad is working on a 1981 corvette approximately 300 hp got a 570 street
avenger. He has been having all kinds of problems with the bog and idol
jets backing out. He wants to know if you have experienced problems when
you get everything set right the idol is good at 900 with the cam we have,
shut the car off, start it back up 5 minutes later. The idol will be at 500
sometimes, and 1500 other times. My dad is going to try to return the
Holley, and go with a quick flow carborator. Thanks you :)
ThunderHead289: a lot of people are not aware of this problem because they do not have
their carb set up correctly. from the factory these come with the
secondarys totally closed, so the primaries are cranked open really far
eliminating this problem. but when the secondarys are opened to allow for
even air flow, the primary blades are closed down more, and this is where
the problem shows itself. most people never mess with the secondarys but
the factory config was unacceptable on these carbs.
ThunderHead289: I want to point out that im as good at tuning as it gets. mine was a new
carb. some are good some are bad. quality control was a fail. I ended up
bending that lever just a bit so it was off the spring. its just not a
performance carb its metered too lean. I stuck this carb on my stock 302
and adjusted it to run perfectly. I put a double pumper on my 289 and
adjusted it to run flawlessly. its just not a performance carb. its metered
for efficiency not power.
THEWIERDNEWSCHANNEL: Remove the spring & replace with a stiffer spring.
ThunderHead289: I would think a number 38 nozzle with a hollow screw and a pair of 65-68
primaries would get it where it needs to be. I believe you have an off idle
issue more than anything. change the distributor springs and stop bushing
to the lighter silvers or blues and insert the black bushing I believe. set
it to 15btdc with the vac advance connected for now(to ported not man vac)
check out my holley tuning video about what I say with the secondary blades
at idle. this NEEDS to be fixed FIRST.
ThunderHead289: don't worry I get that a lot. there must have been a bad line of these a
few years back. believe me I had everything set up correctly. I have since
installed a brand new street avenger on a buddies bronco and when I set it
up it did not have this problem, in fact that spring was smaller. it was a
very strange deal to be sure. thanks for the concerns I appreciate your
Gary Ross: I have mechanical advance. Played with it when I installed the distributor
but can't remember what the settings are. Need to pick up new kit. My
timing light shows fast curve but short to only 25btc. I am going to put a
38 nozzle in tomorrow and see what happens. I will install a hollow screw
as well if it is in stock. Thanks for the replies.
Randall Evans: Do u need a space plate for every carb?
ThunderHead289: hey this does not work just to let everyone know. cant use to big of pump
cam because it will push the diaphram too far thus wearing it out sooner.
themilkmankd: thanks for posting the vid i got a off idle stumble that was driving me
nuts thought i fixed it the best i could till i seen this vid and its a 750
street hp took the carb off and the same problem with the pump cam and
spring so its not just the s/a carbs did you just bend the arm sideways a
little and it worked ?
KianJorry: Ok your spot on with the ultra avenger issues. On my engine the thing ran
rich out of the box so bad it was eye burning. Had to crack open the
secondaries so the mixture screws worked. Yeah I have the of idle stumble
your talking about. I looked at the pump cam and noticed exactly the issue
your talking about where the lever is running on the spring. Whoever
designed that should be flogged. I m thinking of narrowing the cam lever to
miss the spring.....change to another cam from the green one..
ThunderHead289: this should help alot of things since now the primary transfer slots are
not so overly exposed. when i get some time i will pull the 670 and do the
same things. idid not meanto insult i appreciate the help. i justsee that
there isnt enough duration for the blue cam(tho it did hit right away), i
justworry about not knowing i would be leaking gas onto the manifold or
something potentially. im fearful to go against tollerance ratings.
awsom70: I often find the arms need a lil bending and adjusting etc especially when
changing pump cams or converting to a 50 or 70 cc acc pump for race of e85
or alky thats not out of the ordinary at all. No carb is right for anyones
application of of the box. Dont complain thats its not a performance carb
because its metered on the lean side. You bought a "street" avenger!
Metering can be changed, its made to be changed every engines different.
Carbs arent bolt on and go if you want best performance
ThunderHead289: that is a strange problem. do you have a fuel pressure gauge? seems like
the carb is just leaning itself out. if it is lean, make sure you don't
have vac leaks and it is not vapor locked. test this by going for a drive
with the gas cap off. if its rich, im sure its due to too high of pressure
caused by excessive heat, this will overflow the bowls pretty easily. get a
read on the plugs to tell either way its hardtop diagnose without being
there in person I went with a 600 DP in the end. .
ThunderHead289: this is too ironic. i have an 81 vette sitting in my garage that Im doing
an engine rebuild on. the fuel lines are very small and the gallon per hour
rating on that system is not that high. I don't think its able to handle
300 ponies. before you return it, find a way to fit a pressure gauge on
your fuel system after the pump to see if the fuel supply cant quite keep
up. it sounds like a fuel starvation problem. also run it with the gas cap
unscrewed to make sure that the problems are not
frankenstang1973: Outstanding! Had a whole world of pain with my 670 SA on a 351c, took a lot
of messing about to get it anywhere near right, going to check mine today
to see if it's binding on the spring like yours. Did up the squirter size
but obviously not the real answer. Did see on a forum some reference to the
air passages in the base plate being poorly finished & partially blocked
with casting flash. Glad so see it's not just mine giving problems!
AlvinAZ: Oops forgot to say: "cool information about the transition circuit problem,
TH. :)" Tired of reading/hearing over and over and over and over "crank up
the accelerator pump" to fix what's really a transition circuit problem. :/
So thanks for mentioning it at all, TH. :)
Gary Ross: I have a 670 Street Avenger with the same problem. Thought I was getting to
much fuel so I plugged the power valve and reduced the main jets from 68 to
53. The engine shut off when I pressed the gas pedal. Put a 6.5 power valve
in and re-jetted to .080 in the primaries. Almost no more stumble. I have
.53 discharge nozzle. I am going to change to .57 and see what that does.
Double Red_Rolex: I just bought a street avenger 670 and after some minor tuning its near
perfect. You can't say holley "failed" because you bought a used carb and
can't get it to work. Check your pump cam and make sure u are using the
correct screw holes. Mine works fine new out of the box. Never buy a used
carb and expect it to work properly. Street avenger is an awesome carb when
it's correctly tuned. Take it to a speed shop and get a professional to
tune it if its being that much of a problem.
Thirdgen83: 'Sucks when you don't know what you're doing, huh? I've had 2 Street
Avengers and both ran just fine.
IronChefNC: I cant wait to pull this POS crap carb off my car....and use it for target
flyinhigh450: I have pretty much the same issue with my 670 SA but mine is while
driving..When keeping a consistent speed say 45mph,the car stumbles bad
like shes fuel starving.Even when taking off from a dead stop,it stumbles
around 1/8th throttle..Im about to toss a Holley 750 DP on and call it a
ThunderHead289: no problem bud. i agree freak you holley. i will never buy a vac sec again.
slapped a 650 double pumper on and never looked back. these carbs are
unbeleivably terrible. i hate how they act like they have never heard of
ThunderHead289: I honestly think its a timing issue. what springs are in the dizzy? those
come stock with the two heaviest springs and the smallest advance stop so
its advancing way too slow as well as way to far. but as for the seemingly
lean issue, I know the feeling and its just how the street avengers are
metered through the air bleeds I believe. I could stand it and put a 600 dp
on my 289 and it felt like instant 100 ponies..
ThunderHead289: i never got this fixed the right way. i ended up only being able to use cam
position one. your problem will most likely be your transfer slots. the SA
carbs are set terribly off on the secondary opening amount at idle. check
out my other holley video thats threaded into my bog explanation video. it
starts exolaining at 1:30 ish how to set this right.
ThunderHead289: the gas cap would check for vapor lock like a poorly breathing gas tank but
you seem smart enough to not have this problem. first id turn it down to
5psi. i run my 11 to1 289 at 4psi all day on the street just fine. it would
only take just a bit to blow open the needle and seat and cause this issue.
not saying its your problem, but i guarantee its happening. also, pick
yourself up a 1inch phenelic spacer. keeps the carb nice and cool and the
fuel from percolation in the bowls. il review the vid
PColaBob107: Thunderhead289, I am thinking of going with a Holley SA 570 for my mild
283, headers, powerpacc heads & 4 speed. Was this issue every addressed by
Holley? I don't want to jump into a can of worms if there is still no fix
Foxythirtytwo: I'm 99.9% positive you have that accelerator pump cam bolted up using the
wrong hole.. Use the #1 hole on the cam in conjunction with the #1 hole on
the throttle lever and you'll take all the slack out of your accelerator
pump arm... then adjust the accelerator pump lever accordingly (using the
springed bolt and nut) so that there's only 15 thou of play.
ThunderHead289: I run a spacer plate on every carb that I have because the heat soak from
the intake causes fuel percolation. you do not have to, but I always do
unless my intake itself is a high riser
ThunderHead289: you cant on these when its this way. there will still be slop. the cam has
to be set to position one. my other holleys dont ride on the spring. only
my 2 SA series carbs. think about it, its not going to move until the AP
lever contacts the cam. so there will always be that slop, that moment
where the plates are opening and it is getting no AP fuel will still be
there. whats even wierder is my 570 is much worse than my 670.
street avenger holley bog problem explained!4
out of 5