Rv Refrigerator Repair, No 1 Reason Why Your Rv Fridge Will Not Get Cold

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Lori Hoover: We have a '77 Airstream with Dometic RM100 refrigerator that just started not getting cold. It was frosted up and we defrosted it and now it won't get cold but the freezer works great. Up until that point it would get super cold. We run it on the electric not on the propane. Thanks for any help on how to fix this problem.

Andrew Armstrong: The best thing i ever done was pull my fire hazard in waiting "No it won't cool" out and put it on the curb and replaced it with a GE/with ice maker. 8 years later i have had ZERO problems with the GE. It always cools perfectly on level ground, going up hill, going down hill, leaning left, leaning right.

What was funny was all the snickering and rude remarks that were tossed my way over using a "forbidden" residential style refrigerator in an RV. Go look at what all the new RV's are using for refrigerators. That says it all. I dry camped for five days on 3 house batteries plus 1 15 watt solar panel and 2 to 3 hours gen use a evening. Not one time did the GE, on an inverter,  pull the batteries dead or to low to use other 12 volt sources in my RV. And not one time have i had a gen start to recharge the batteries, as my set up does this automatically..

Why people still insist on fire hazard absorption refrigerators in there RV is beyond me. Battery technology is awesome, some of the solar panels out there is awesome. So why not have a awesome "home" refrigerator that keeps your food at the correct temperature without the risk of burning your RV down and does not need constant costly repairs or added fans to work properly. Not to mention the extreme cost difference you will save.

mark evans: How do you put the suggested level in the freezer when at camp and with food in freezer compartment. Under 3 days, use dry ice.It melts dry as well.

Ron Davis: Hello

I have a Norcold N61X Refer. I live in my 37' Jayco. Now I saw a wire on the fins with a clip in my refer. The clip was rusted but the sensor looked good. Don't now how to test it. Both the refer and freezer are not working. I run on 120 volts only.
Do I  need a new refer. I hope not I'm on Social Security. Any ideas how to see about getting this fixed? My rig and the refer is level. Any suggestions you can give would be great. I live in Idaho Springs Colorado. It has been snowing.


Johnny DeBarge: matt don't know if youll see this video about fridge repair but I cant open the first video

Gary Campbell: OK after reading and re-reading the paperwork, I've come to understand clearly what they want to do to get the cord up to the eyebrow.
Now, since I'm living out of the fridge now in the desert, I've decided to wait and eat the stuff up in my freezer and then do the switch when my frozen load is low so if the whole shooting match fails for some reason, I won't lose a lot of food.
Thanks again for your site.  I'll get back and let you know how it worked in about a month's time.

Gary Campbell: Matt, I got the part Thermister for the Norcold.  The paperwork is confusing...
It says drill a 5/16" hole through the cabinet at locating dimple.  Why can't I just tape the new wire to the old one and pull it through?  Where is this dimple?
Use a 3/16" x 16" rod and push the connector through the cabinet.  Not sure here if I'm pushing the connector end of the new thermister through the wall of the box?
There was no new clip to clip on the new thermister, any ideas?
Insert changing device, a 30" x 3/8" tube in 5/8" hole (at eyebrow access) lower cable and find connector through lower door vent door secure connector and pull up through tube and make new connection.

Can you shed some light on the pushing the connector through the cabinet.


Gary Campbell: Matt,
Thanks for your video.  I live with a Norcold 8683 gas/ac unit that continually freezes.  I am in the desert and living on propane and manage it by shutting it off when the interior temp of the lower box gets down in the 20's.
Can you advise me as to repair or I love how it keeps everything nice and cold, but I want to be safe and not have to fool with it.  Thanks so much for your suggestions.

By the way, I also have to replace my black water tank and it would be great to have a video of something like that to inform people like me to have to do it themselves because we can't afford anything else these days.

scottntexas: No, the freezer is only cool, it does not freeze. In my old trailer i had to junk the fridge from factory, a dometic, and purchase a compact electric fridge. Hoping that wont be necessary with this newer trailer. Im moving to Phoenix very soon, where its triple digit weather much of the year.

scottntexas: By the way, my fride is a 2 way, and i only use the 120v setting.

scottntexas: I live in a camper trailer, it is a 1996 Salem Cobra, with a norcold fridge. Most of the year it works flawlessly, during the summer it barley works. The freezer stays cool, and the fridge is warm. I live in the desert, so its not uncommon to have triple digit weather. I estimate my fridge and freezer are about 6.5 cu. ft. Is it possible to get it to work in the high heat of the desert? I had an old airstream before this one, with the same troubles. 

laronis: WOW, so complicated I did not even log in my normal name.  I am escalante58.

laronis: wow, youtube has become very complicated from the early days.  took me forever to log in.  anyway, thank you for the info!!!

Matt Willis: That is a great question, You have a Dometic fridge with an compressor just like your household fridge, the best thing about that is it can run as much as 30 degrees off level and still work fine. That is a major plus for these people that swap out their propane fridges for household one in the bigger rv's If you plan on never going dry camping and your fridge is need of a cooling unit it is something to consider. Although it may hurt the resale value unless you sell it to some of like mind.

escalante58: I have a 2009 20’ Van RV with a 2 way (12/120) Dometic refrigerator (does not use propane). Do I have to keep this RV level when parking also? My understanding is the problem of keeping the RV level was for propane refrigerators only and I did not have to worry about it. Thanks in advance.

Jubilee1009: Matt, that worked!!! (Big Smile)...freezer is freezing and refrigerator is cold!! So now to check out the access to the heating elements. I can't thank you enough!! thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU!!!

Jubilee1009: Thank you so very much, Matt!! We'll sure give it a try and let you know the outcome.

Matt Willis: If you see bright yellow powder around the burner then you have a leak and the cooling unit must be replaced. Don't believe the tech that tells you it is not worth fixing, If your fridge looks good and the door seal is in good shape it is worth fixing. Norcold and Dometic both sell replacement cooling units, and there are good re-manufactured units out there for less money. Sibur was the last rv fridge that you could not replace the cooling unit and they went out of business, I wonder why?

Matt Willis: DM2652 has replaced the RM2652 And on some of them Dometic used a new design where the cooling unit is smaller and uses a fan to compensate for it's size. On the smaller one I have found that some of the heating elements are bad try running it on LP gas If it gets cold then that is the problem. If it is the small cooling unit they have no heating element access door on the insulated boiler cover you have to pull the fridge to swap it. Either way the fridge is way worth fixing.
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Rv Refrigerator Repair, No 1 Reason Why your Rv Fridge will not get cold