Dave Robinson: I took my fridge out of my RV and placed it in my basement, can I plug in to my 120 outlet and have it work
Winter Star: Nice leveling tips. Here are a couple more low-tech fixes for RV fridges that aren't cooling properly: 1. The thermistor is usually clipped to a middle fin in the freezer--wrong position! Move it to clip onto the warmer end-fin, and at a higher location on that fin. This should cause unit to run more, therefore chilling better. 2. Another manufactured-in fail--point on some RV fridges, is bad, spongy insulation on unit. No refrigeration unit should ever use open-cell foam or fibrous insulation, because those soak-up moisture and grow mold. RV's are susceptible to mold anyway; fixing this helps reduce that issue [though only in part]. Replace that spongy insulation with closed-cell foam, and thicker than original if there's room. Sticking it well to the basic box is best, to block condensate forming between the box and insulation. Just avoid insulating over cooling coils in back of unit.
Saif Rehman: nice jop
David DeFord: How do you take out the switch on a gas and elec. Dometic? I can't get it to slide either way.
Tom Bishop: Our 3way 1994 demetic frig cools great in the freezer, but not the frig whether it's in AC or gas. The thermistor ohms out at 2185 when warm and 6850 when cold. Any ideas??
Stephanie DeMaya: the title for this is all wrong. It did not teach us anything other than what level you should use.
Jorjann Kuypers: Hi Matt, thank you for your video. The problem with our frig (Norco in 2015 Navion) is that it doesn't cool when we are driving. We cooled the unit to zero degrees in the freezer and 19 degrees in the frig before loading it and taking off. We didn't overload it and we put one of those little battery operated fans in the bottom. After spending 7 hours of interstate driving, the frig was 50 degrees and the freezer was 30. What are we doing wrong? The frig was not overloaded. Could the battery fan be producing heat? It takes 2 d cells. thank you? Jorjann
David Pellerin: Why cant we just use our app on our iphone? I downloaded a free app for a bubble level and I lay that in my refrigerator itself and balance it out? is that a wrong idea?
Judy Guptill: Very good video. Buying levels tomorrow!
Judy Guptill: We bought our rv used...2 yrs old, 5 years ago. We did not own it when it was brand new, so we don't know what to expect. never knew the importance of leveling for the frig..only for the comfort. Just had to trace the frig! Had new Dometic 3-way 4 cu.ft.RV frig installed a few days ago. Runs perfectly. Tried AC first..perfect. Counter front edge is slightly warm. When we ran it on propane there is,ago heat smell, not gas, not smoke or a burning smell, just heat...was,wondering if this is because it's new? Worked perfectly with the propane. Nothing mentioned in manual.
Charles Tait: Don't worry so much about not cooling, worry about your R/V burning to the ground from unlevel refrigerators! Unlevel operation causes temperature in the boiler to rise, this weakens by heat stress the steel tubing, causing cracks and leaks. It also crystallizes the sodium chloride making things even worse. Then the fire starts and spreads like crazy. Just pray you are not sleeping when it happens!
Lori Hoover: We have a '77 Airstream with Dometic RM100 refrigerator that just started not getting cold. It was frosted up and we defrosted it and now it won't get cold but the freezer works great. Up until that point it would get super cold. We run it on the electric not on the propane. Thanks for any help on how to fix this problem.
Andrew Armstrong: The best thing i ever done was pull my fire hazard in waiting "No it won't cool" out and put it on the curb and replaced it with a GE/with ice maker. 8 years later i have had ZERO problems with the GE. It always cools perfectly on level ground, going up hill, going down hill, leaning left, leaning right.
What was funny was all the snickering and rude remarks that were tossed my way over using a "forbidden" residential style refrigerator in an RV. Go look at what all the new RV's are using for refrigerators. That says it all. I dry camped for five days on 3 house batteries plus 1 15 watt solar panel and 2 to 3 hours gen use a evening. Not one time did the GE, on an inverter, pull the batteries dead or to low to use other 12 volt sources in my RV. And not one time have i had a gen start to recharge the batteries, as my set up does this automatically..
Why people still insist on fire hazard absorption refrigerators in there RV is beyond me. Battery technology is awesome, some of the solar panels out there is awesome. So why not have a awesome "home" refrigerator that keeps your food at the correct temperature without the risk of burning your RV down and does not need constant costly repairs or added fans to work properly. Not to mention the extreme cost difference you will save.
mark evans: How do you put the suggested level in the freezer when at camp and with food in freezer compartment. Under 3 days, use dry ice.It melts dry as well.
Ron Davis: Hello
I have a Norcold N61X Refer. I live in my 37' Jayco. Now I saw a wire on the fins with a clip in my refer. The clip was rusted but the sensor looked good. Don't now how to test it. Both the refer and freezer are not working. I run on 120 volts only. Do I need a new refer. I hope not I'm on Social Security. Any ideas how to see about getting this fixed? My rig and the refer is level. Any suggestions you can give would be great. I live in Idaho Springs Colorado. It has been snowing.
Johnny DeBarge: matt don't know if youll see this video about fridge repair but I cant open the first video
Gary Campbell: OK after reading and re-reading the paperwork, I've come to understand clearly what they want to do to get the cord up to the eyebrow. Now, since I'm living out of the fridge now in the desert, I've decided to wait and eat the stuff up in my freezer and then do the switch when my frozen load is low so if the whole shooting match fails for some reason, I won't lose a lot of food. Thanks again for your site. I'll get back and let you know how it worked in about a month's time.
Gary Campbell: Matt, I got the part Thermister for the Norcold. The paperwork is confusing... It says drill a 5/16" hole through the cabinet at locating dimple. Why can't I just tape the new wire to the old one and pull it through? Where is this dimple? Use a 3/16" x 16" rod and push the connector through the cabinet. Not sure here if I'm pushing the connector end of the new thermister through the wall of the box? There was no new clip to clip on the new thermister, any ideas? Insert changing device, a 30" x 3/8" tube in 5/8" hole (at eyebrow access) lower cable and find connector through lower door vent door secure connector and pull up through tube and make new connection.
Can you shed some light on the pushing the connector through the cabinet.
Gary Campbell: Matt, Thanks for your video. I live with a Norcold 8683 gas/ac unit that continually freezes. I am in the desert and living on propane and manage it by shutting it off when the interior temp of the lower box gets down in the 20's. Can you advise me as to repair or I love how it keeps everything nice and cold, but I want to be safe and not have to fool with it. Thanks so much for your suggestions.
By the way, I also have to replace my black water tank and it would be great to have a video of something like that to inform people like me to have to do it themselves because we can't afford anything else these days. Regards, Gary
Rv Refrigerator Repair, No 1 Reason Why your Rv Fridge will not get cold5
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