Wayne Keller: Please let your customers be aware; Brake fluid has an affinity for water, in the air (humidity). The "phenolic" pistons can & will swell up if or when they have absorbed water ( which can be in the brake fluid from humidity in the air. This WILL happen in motor homes which do not drive very much, but just sit still most of their life, so the brake fluid does not heat up enough to drive the water out of the brake fluid.) , and the only real cure to prevent the brake pistons from sticking is to replace them with new metal pistons. I had to buy all new calipers for all 4 wheels. I know all this because I have gone through problems with the brakes sticking several times and heating the brake system to the point there were no brakes. It took the brake manufactures a LONG time to find out the cause of the sticking brakes. Nothing like driving on a crowded limited access expressway with NO BRAKES.
Greg Lloyd: I see you can remove caliper from toques plate with bottom bolt removal but can it be done with the top bolt removed as my bottom bolt has rust deposit and 3 of the torques bit teeth are basically gone
Tony Dadon: Is this the same for 2005 GMC 2500HD?
Mark Rogers: Thank You...Informative video.
Dick Fageroni: love how he half-assedly cleans the new rotor, how he half-assedly tightens the bracket bolts, how he doesn't bother cleaning the sliding rails and how he doesn't even lube the slide pins.
great video on how to NOT do it.
blam7: Thanks for sharing.
Calvin Cannon: Cool video
Steve Halley: great video, thank you
bluepoint45: Thanks for the video, reason I came on here was because I didn't how to remove top caliper bolt, little did I know I don't have to!!
1957Panman: Excellent Video. Thanks for the Tip on the top bolt. (Just did my rear brakes.) On 2004 they change the Caliper bolts (from Torx) to a 16mm bolt.
Terry Gulliford: Thanks for the good job on the video. I was "that" guy who couldn't figure out how to get the second slide bolt out so I put off changing the rears. Your video showed me how to get around that and then it was easy.
Earl DaSquirrel: if the rotor/drum combo are stuck on, disengage the parking brake, so the brake shoes inside the rotor had can back off and you can just slip it off... of course, your front wheels are chocked
also there's a star-wheel adjuster access hole in the backing plate just above the axle... usually coverd by a rubber plug
a very short handle flathead screwdriver can be inserted there and you can back off those brake shoes from the drum/rotor combo
other than that, & not showing that you re-lubed those sliding caliper pins... not a bad video!
Scott Ares: good video... Do you have any videos for how to replace the LCA on a 2004 2500hd silverado 4X4?? thanks
John Lee: Excellent video. Thanks for the refresher. I am fixing to change my pads and rotors now. I knew how, but this vid was a great refresher. Thanks again
Kevin McNeese: wouldn't hurt to put some brake/caliper grease on those pin bolts before re-inserting.
Kevin McNeese: consider pinching the break line before pushing the piston back into the caliper and use the bleeder valve to release the fluid. Doing so prevents the chance of pushing contaminated fluid into the master which could damage the ABS.
Kevin McNeese: Notice how the caliper bracket moves when he removes the pads? He may have already loosened them before filming. Those bolts are indeed very tight and tough to break.
L Sevelle: This is an excellent video to watch before taking on this job. The only thing he does not mention is that the caliper bracket bolts can be tough. You need to use an impact socket and a long breaker bar. Otherwise a very good video.
Joseph Upali: oh btw, should i grind those edge of the pads, to make little loose?
Joseph Upali: Thank you very much! nice video
2002 Chevrolet 2500 HD Silverado Rear Brakes and Rotors5
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