StayDamnSpicy: @Joe Williams
I have an issue! I am mechanically inclined worked on cars since I was very
young, here is where I have an issue, Haynes, Chilton manuals give the same
info you did as far as the release of the adjustment screw, as well as all
data, yet after engaging and disengaging the parking brakes, I still don't
see the adjustment screw, I'm afraid of what I might have to do to get the
rotor off. Any ideas?
Alan Chan: Where did you get 34 ft lbs of torque from??
immafreak: Thanks for this video. I was able to do this by myself and saved a lot of
money. Just a tip for beginners like me, make sure you release the parking
brake so that you can remove the rotors. I spent 20 minutes trying to
figure out why and I was like "doh!"
tracmag: he did not show the removal of the old rotor
jstar1000: Why clamp the hose and bleed out the fluid when pushing back the caliper
piston? I have always just opened up the master cylinder brake fluid
compartment and pushed it back up into it and there is no need to bleed the
brakes when done or add any fluid. Seems like a lot more work for nothing
if you ask me.
tracmag: Very good video
Nathaniel Sisler: is the 2008 lexus es350 the same???
harrigl1: Awesome video! Very clear and easy to follow instructions. You guys can
easily teach others how to make "How to" videos. Excellent pace with calm,
confident vocal instruction. Kudos!
TheRealKerfaffle: Hi Joe - I used this video as my main source to get comfortable to change
my rear brakes.
And, I had success.
westernfb: How much different do you think the job would be on a Highlander of the
jontrip247: Anti-seize compound is not recommended (08:41) instead use clear silicone
vivalv59: Is it a must, no. When you push the brake caliper piston in the brake fluid
will simply be pushed back towards the master cylinder (MC). Yo will need
to keep your eye on the MC to make sure it doesn't overflow. I always
etract some fluid from the MC prior to starting the work. On a nother note;
it's a good idea to flush the fluid when you change the pads, then you will
need to open the bleeder...
bernardo121968: Flushing the brake fluid is a good idea when changing the pads. This keeps
the brake fluid fresh, and prevents the rubber brake hoses from
deteriorating prematurely. Using normal brake grease on clips/pins and
anti-squeal paste on back of pads is also fine. You don't have to use
anti-seize in these areas, but it's ok also.
nikolic777gmailcom: GREAT VIDEO :) Thank you
vivalv59: Informative. I replaced my brake pads, after watching the video (also
flushed all brake fluid). Couple comments: I didn’t need for the brake line
clamp tool, just pushed the pistons in and removed some brake fluid from
the MC prior to ensure it doesn’t overflow, simple. Recommend using the”
normal” frame area for the jack stands, “much safer.” I used normal brake
grease (clips/pins), not the high temp anti-seize grease. Used anti-squeal
paste on back of pads. My brakes are nice and quiet :)
bernardo121968: The reason for bleeding is to get rid of air in the brake lines, so your
brake pedal doesn't feel spongy when you step on the brakes. As a result,
you do replace a few spoonfuls of fluid by doing this, but that is not the
main reason for bleeding your brakes.
iplayloud2: I thought the reason for bleeding was to actually get rid of a few
spoonfuls of oil, because the oil doesn't circulate in the braking system
and the piston always operates in the same small pool of oil, so to get
some fresh oil in that area..?
carledb51: Very good video Tnanks. I have never used thread lock on the caliper bolts
when chaning brakes. I do not remember seeing that in the chilton manuals
that I have used. Do you ever have difficulty remving the bolts after using
this? Also I bought my 20007 Toyota Camry at 50,000 miles and at 54,000
miles the rear pads are low but the fronts are still fine. I have never
seen that before. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the excellent video.
iplayloud2: Second question.. great video by the way!! When you say, "bleed until there
is no more air bubbles", is there absolutely going to be bubbles there? And
how did they get there.. are the bubbles created when pushing back the
piston, or from the previous normal braking process?
thiru h: Very good valuable information thanks for posting
bernardo121968: Thank you gentleman! That was a very informative video on how to change the
rear brake pads on a 2007 camry. I'm a mechanic, so after watching your
video, I was able to change the pads with no problem. Removing and
replacing them went smooth as silk. The only thing I would do different, as
vivalv59 posted earlier, I would put the jack stands in the normal frame
area. Putting them there is much safer. Other than that, I would not change
bernardo121968: The reason why your front pads are fine is because they were changed once
already. The rule of thumb is you usually replace your front pads twice
before replacing your rear pads. The thread lock is only used so the bolts
don't loosen due to normal vibration while driving. You will not have any
problem removing them next time you change the pads.
How to Replace the Rear Brake Pads and Rotors in a 2007 Toyota Camry4.8
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