Mr. Westwood: Hmm. Maybe you could use a small cutoff saw and just cut the bracket off.
Assuming you can buy a new bracket, just replace it and reinstall.
SeverdSeouL: Bushou, I was wondering if you might have an idea about this problem I'm
having. My Accord (97 F22B1 Manual) runs perfectly fine when it's cold, and
immediately after warm up, but the warmer the engine gets the worse the
idle gets. It gets as low as 500-400 RPM on the Tach, causing very bad
vibrations. I checked for Vacuum leaks, couldn't find any. Any ideas?
C Hall: THANKS!!! do you recommend steel or brass bristles? should I use any
cleaner/lube or dry?
Yo Man: YOU ‘DE MAN ! One of the best instruction videos I have seen in a long
time, great work. But my girlfriend will have to take it to her mechanic,
as I don’t have the crow foot metric and flair nut wrenches and I don’t
have a lift. Thanks
acasieteable: thank u for the video i just saved $100 dollars just by doing it my self
pipateer jones: I've got a 14mm flare but crowfoot and it's about a hair too small! It
won't fit on my flare nut at the fuel line. Could it be a 9/16?
Larry Hecht: Nicely done with excellent photography! I wonder if the 19mm crowfoot
could be replaced with an ordinary 19mm end wrench, wedged in there against
something to do the holding? As I don't have a set of crowfoots, I'll try
this first. I think the time has come on my 2002 Accord with 88k miles.
Heidelberg Cruz: Awesome, I wish I have those tools like yours.
Talented3003: nice instructions! how do u drain the fuel from the gas tank? whats the
hottzombiesex: You should get a laser pointer if you haven't already to point things out.
Paul Borghese: Fantastic video! Thanks for publishing.
C Hall: bushu, thanks for the vid. my old filter had rusted on to the fuel feed
pipe fitting and was very difficult to get off, and now impossible to get
the new one back on. I'm going to see if I have a die I can chase the
threads with, otherwise its going to the shop. plus I warped the bracket
getting the filter off. the filter I bought from autozone is duralast part
ff696dl, and there appears to be about 1mm extra length on the inside of
this filter where the fuel feed fitting will screw in, and I'm not
convinced it is going to seat securely with the fitting so will be ordering
the part+bracket now from majestic. btw the tiny washer is the same
diameter as the top of the fuel feed pipe, and it may be what it was
intended for. although I have no idea how it could be securely placed
considering the horrific location of the filter. thanks again.
Skyler Bond: My honda performs better cold. What does that mean?
Bushougoma: Try removing the bracket bolt and unhook the lower portion of the bracket
from the hole in the body. You can then pull the filter up a bit to get
more clearance to grip the flare nut. I've just learned to contort myself
in weird ways to deal with engineering nightmares like this.
Skyler Bond: Also my right front side makes a clunk sound of metal on metal when I hit
bumps. Could that be the suspension coil or whatever that's called? I'm in
the process of learning and can't afford a mechanic. Thanks for your help
by the way. Maybe I can post a vid to show you.
Hector Herrera: yo good job man i just learned something new i thought it was simpler but
thanks alot now you gave me an idea you even recorded the process you the
Harry byz: i have 95 honda accord lx. Bushougoma, where do you buy honda part genuine
online or shop? Thanks. Did you get that honda fuel filter online? Thanks
Bushougoma: In response to kidcool: There is no such thing as a lifetime fuel filter.
This is just nonsense that has propagated over the Internet and I've even
heard it from some techs. I don't know how this myth got started maybe it
was just because some tech was lazy and didn't want to replace it. Honda
states in the service manual every 2 years or 40,000 miles. Nowhere in the
service literature was the term "lifetime" used. They specified a specific
Bushougoma: Haha yeah it got inside half way through the video and as noisy as it was I
couldn't find it.
TBoone53: gotcha. preciate the help
Sushawn Kirati: Nice and clean. Great Job!!
clayton costin: hey on the bolt that has holes in it, do u have to line the side hole up
with the line?
Bushougoma: I'd recommend checking for spark first since it's the easiest thing to
check. These Honda's aren't known for dying fuel pumps just listen when you
turn the key to on you should hear the pump prime for 2 seconds. If not
check the main relay. If you really want to check if any pressure is there
you can crack the bolt on the other end of that hose on the fuel rail. Just
make sure you prime it for 2 seconds beforehand as the pressure will decay
tehanikw: Well your awesome and this video helped sooo so much. My 95 accord fuel
filter was so clogged it was insane. I couldn't blow any air through. I
recommend changing this filter ASAP if any other accord owners watch this.
Skyler Bond: Will do thanks man. Good to know there are still people willing to use
their time to help people.
Carl Seyer: Good video. I like the cricket sound effects. Ha.
Bushougoma: Well it's super easy to install ....... for the factory before everything
else was installed around it!
Bushougoma: No you don't have to line anything up. This is a common banjo fitting the
fitting on the hose has a channel around the circumference. So no matter
where the hole is pointed fuel will flow through the center of the banjo
bolt and out the drilled passage on the side through the hose.
Bushougoma: Did you make sure you removed both of the old crush washers? There are two
one on top of the banjo fitting and one on the bottom of it. If you double
gasketed one side (they can stick) or forgot a washer during re
installation that can cause a leak. If the washers aren't double gasketed
and are in the right places (one on top of the fitting and the other on the
bottom). Tighten the bolt up a bit more to stop the leak.
kharebear: Great video brother!
Skyler Bond: Well half power*
Bushougoma: I used an OEM filter you can buy them at an from a dealer online or a local
one. I've found the online dealers beat the locals prices in most cases.
Bushougoma: This generation of Accord is known for having a rattling sound from the
exhaust at 1800-2000 rpm. If it kicks in at that RPM it's most likely that.
These Hondas run a solid valve train and don't have hydraulic lifters. So
if your clicking is coming from the valve cover you'll need to check the
drowization: great video :)
Bushougoma: Yeah if the engineers had any sense the only tools required would have been
a socket set. Thanks For Watching.
John Clark: I love the sound of crickets in the background. nice job
Bushougoma: If I'm not in a rush for a part on one of my vehicles I use Majestic Honda
for my online orders. I've also heard good things about BK Honda Parts.
Bushougoma: That confirms the fuel sending unit is bad. To remove it first spray
penetrating oil on the nuts securing it to the tank and let it soak for
awhile first they like to rust. After they're off just pull the unit out of
the tank. Don't forget to remove the old gasket if it sticks to the tank
the new unit will come with a replacement. As long as the unit is out of
the tank keep any sources of combustion out of the work area.
Bushougoma: Glad it worked out. If the flare nut is stuck on there good using a regular
crowfoot can round it off. I wouldn't want to be the guy in that situation
considering the location of the nut. Thanks for watching.
willigetstucco: Just starting to do these DIY repairs at the age of sixty; no one ever
taught me. So, thanks,' Dad'. Terrific, anxiety-free tutorials. Much
Bushougoma: Now that we know wiring integrity is good and the gauge can travel to
full we're going to make sure it can travel all the way down to the empty
mark. For this test just leave the 3 pin connector disconnected (remove the
previous jumper wire) and turn the ignition on. If the gauge climbs down
all the way to the empty mark the gauge is good again turn the ignition off
before it passes the empty mark to prevent damage to the gauge.
Mohammed Umar: Please can anyone help me with a way to solve the problem of fuel
consumption in my Honda Accord 1998, I bought a new engine but still
consumes 187miles/full tank... Please i need help so badly because a love
David Reed: I had a '96 and this was the ONE thing I hate about this car. Had to change
the filter twice, and each time I ended up throwing my sockets across the
garage. You made it look easy!
Bushougoma: The D4 light is for reporting transmission trouble codes. The light coming
on and shutting down is part of the bulb check circuit to verify the
indicator light is working it's normal. If the D4 light is flashing when
the ignition is on then that signifies a transmission related fault code
has been stored.
Bushougoma: I know I'd have some choice words for the engineers on both. If somethings
practical and easy to service engineers aren't finished messing with it yet.
julius Scott: i wached this whole vid and changed it myself good video broo really helped
Ken Ho: Great video. I think my 98 accord is having this issue. Can I get your
comment on this. My 98 accord starts OK. Once I drove it for a block and
stop at the stop sign or light and then step on the gas to go, it would
hesitate unless I floor it. Is it the fuel filter? I've tried adding
seafoam to the line from the booster to the intake manifold. It would run
fine for a month or two.
el pasi: hey great video, i got a 97 accord too, and if you can put some more videos
of how to fix the fuel pump thing that goes up and down, cause im having
problem with the gas gauge wich makes my car die, with no gas in it but on
the gauge it says tha i still have 1/8 ( half of the last quarter) of the
tank.. but the car dies when the gauge hits there, so i put gas on it and
it runs perfect is only when it hits that part, so im assuming that it gets
empty when it hits that level.. helllppppp?
Bushougoma: Code 43 is a Honda OBD 1 code and is very general. Basically it's either a
problem in the O2 sensor circuit or the fuel system. To test the O2 wiring
DMM on DC volts. The following tests are KOER. Heater voltage (battery
voltage on Orange/Black and Yellow/Black wires). O2 signal ground
(Orange/Blue wire with other lead on good ground 200mv or less) O2 signal
wire 400mv (White/Red with sensor unplugged) and other lead on good ground.
This will confirm wiring integrity to the new sensor.