Hector Garcia-Martinez: Where did you get the wire/metal mesh??
john g: Very professional looking job. Could you tell me how I would go about finding someone qualified to install a mortar shower pan in my area? Do many plumbers do this, or a specialty trade? Thanks, Johnny
Dennis Conners: I don't have topping mortar. What ratio of sand to portland cement would you use? I plan to use and additive bonding agent.
Ryan McGeeney:3:32: Does the mortar come under the lip of the drain assembly, or simply right up to it? Does it matter?
May Yer Lor: can this shower base done in a upstairs bathroom of a house built in the 70's?
schooder: What about using that orange Kerdi waterproofing material for the base?
David Alvarado: Thanks @homeadditionplus for the wonderful video. We are using a hot mop installer as the membrane. The installers are claiming that they do not use paper/felt and mesh under their pre-slope prep. Is this accurate? Also, after they install the hot mop, how do I mesh the curb walls for mortar prep? How are they fastened? I do not want to make holes on the hot mopped membrane. Help!
Davina Yau: what kind of mortar are you using?
Yossi Khalon: Hi I have two questions ? 1. What drain did you use (Otay or Sioux Chif drain) ? 2. If you want to add bench to your shower, should you do it after you complete the sower pan and wall (before tile) ?
Tjfreak: Thats's exactly it..no over kill,rock solid..really nice work..beautiful set up for tile.
Vic male: My shower is in basement floor of shower is not tile it's rough like it had colored sand how would I repair leaks on I. Possibly with some kind of epoxy
MAD King: How do you attach the wire mesh inside the curb? Doesn't it damage the liner?
oscar garcia: I wonder about the process of removing the tile from the mortar base when just replacing the tiles.
ll c: first video i seen with wire mesh in the shower pan. Other don't use wire mesh, is it necessary?
Lesley Mason Dupre: This was by far one of the most helpful, straight forward videos I've ever watched. Keep up the great work!
Ro'ber Harpane': Very nice concise video.
It can't be stressed enough to stabilize your floor base area where live movement occurs with heavy bodies moving around showering. If you take your floor out all the way to the joist system, bridging between your joists ties them together in a way to eliminate sideways shifting of your floor system & stabilizes this area into a "single block" per se'.
Doubling your subflooring with construction adhesive between layers adds even more stability eliminating the dreaded shifting/bounce which creates eventual cracking of surface tiles.
This video, although brief shows the importance of small detail (such as the base blocking inside your walls & vertical outside runs for nailers) which results in extending the lifetime of the finished project.
You don't have to be a pro & have yrs. of experience to do a project with worthwhile results. You just need to spend a few extra hours, stand back from your project at intervals & ask yourself,, "what one more step can I do to do this better & add that extra touch. Try to actually understand the concept of what you're doing with importance to added detail.
It's like insurance..
Joe Heyming: Great video, thanks for sharing. When installing the 2x6 blocking, what do you do if there is a vent pipe in the way or supply lines?
Hooter Bear: Why do this instead of hot mopping.....seen both ways and wondering the pros and cons of each....thank you.
miked1120: Can I used pressure treated wood in my bathroom? For the curb, 2x6 blocking? Just asking because after some demo, there is dry rot near the toilet and a few other spots.
Kane Campos: What I dont have any joist directly under my curb...just 3/4 inch sheathing. Can I still screw and liquid nail into that?