ll c: first video i seen with wire mesh in the shower pan. Other don't use wire
mesh, is it necessary?
Ro'ber Harpane': Very nice concise video.
It can't be stressed enough to stabilize your floor base area where live
movement occurs with heavy bodies moving around showering. If you take your
floor out all the way to the joist system, bridging between your joists
ties them together in a way to eliminate sideways shifting of your floor
system & stabilizes this area into a "single block" per se'.
Doubling your subflooring with construction adhesive between layers adds
even more stability eliminating the dreaded shifting/bounce which creates
eventual cracking of surface tiles.
This video, although brief shows the importance of small detail (such as
the base blocking inside your walls & vertical outside runs for nailers)
which results in extending the lifetime of the finished project.
You don't have to be a pro & have yrs. of experience to do a project with
worthwhile results. You just need to spend a few extra hours, stand back
from your project at intervals & ask yourself,, "what one more step can I
do to do this better & add that extra touch. Try to actually understand the
concept of what you're doing with importance to added detail.
It's like insurance..
Lesley Mason Dupre: This was by far one of the most helpful, straight forward videos I've ever
watched. Keep up the great work!
Hooter Bear: Why do this instead of hot mopping.....seen both ways and wondering the
pros and cons of each....thank you.
Joe Heyming: Great video, thanks for sharing. When installing the 2x6 blocking, what do
you do if there is a vent pipe in the way or supply lines?
snowbird29803: Guys like this are worth their weight in gold. This is the kind of job
where you don't want a hack; too much as stake in getting it right the
first time. I'm getting this done soon and I took notes so I know what to
look for when I'm watching over the work. I don't like to hover over
craftsmen, but in this case I might have to. I guess discussing the
procedure in advance might limit misunderstandings. If you can't D-I-Y,
next best is to know HOW it's supposed to be done. Thanks for an excellent
miked1120: Can I used pressure treated wood in my bathroom? For the curb, 2x6
blocking? Just asking because after some demo, there is dry rot near the
toilet and a few other spots.
Kane Campos: What I dont have any joist directly under my curb...just 3/4 inch
sheathing. Can I still screw and liquid nail into that?
Donny Hunt: Loved the video, thank you for your hard work. You are making the world a
better place my friend!
George Dobbs: This is an incredibly good video. Lets get this guy to do all the DIY
videos on youtube.
Jermaine Coney: How do I secure the metal lathe to a concrete subfloor?
Uzztoob: very helpful on the kirb. most videos leave that part out or are using the
plastic kind. thanks
nazilaba: extremely helpful thank you. i will be ripping my old plastic one out and
following your video.
vqphan: Hi great video. I was wondering though, did use the same type of mortar mix
for the second application as the first application.
HomeAdditionPlus: Unfortunately I am not familiar with that drain.Maybe another visitor to
the channel can answer your question.
thegunth63: thanks for the video, i'm in the process of doing my 1st poured pan, though
i've done many preformed pans. Wish me luck!
Garett Murphy: forgive me for being dense in the world of carpentry but is the subfloor
just your regular flooring? or is your 3/4 inch subloor another piece of
plywood along with another 1/2 inch piece of plywood on top of your regular
HomeAdditionPlus: I made cuts in the PVC liner to push the bolts through.
All Tile: Great Video. I was just wondering, do you ever have an issue with curb
swelling or shrinking and cracking the tile or grout just from temperature
variation? I stopped building wood curbs 8 years ago just for that reason.
cojimero59 .: Excelent video! Very well explained and methodically presented. One thing I
always try to read also, is the person, for the work will be a reflection
of the person behind it. You are not only knowledgeable, but also come
across as neat, organized, meticulous and fastidious. Rare breed! So far,
the best and most complete and detailed explanation I have come across.
Congratulations and thanks a million! You have answered many questions I
had and others I did not even knew to ask.
caddisking: Which was does the lathe go on the floor and dam? Smooth or rough side up?
HomeAdditionPlus: @carmegkin The purpose of the weep holes is to allow any water that gets in
under the tiles to have an exit path to the drain. The weep holes are
effectively above the liner. You need to make sure that the drain assembly
connects into the PVC J-trap under the shower pan. I'm not sure what you
mean by installing the drain on top of the concrete. At this point I just
go with what you've got.
9491ryan: Thank you sir. I've purchased your ebook for this task. I'm looking forward
to it. I'll probably use the hardibacker cement board because my ceiling
isn't too high. Should I tile the ceiling part with the hardibacker board?
Victor Guerra: I dred that i have to rip out my cheap plastic corner shower. This helps me
get an idea on what I will need to start this project. Thx!
carmegkin: @HomeAdditionPlus I'm not sure of proper terminology, but in this video I
see that the drain is screwed to the sub-floor and then the first layer of
mortar is placed. So what I was asking is can you screw the drain into
concrete, then place your membrane, expose weep holes, and continue with a
final layer of mortar? I'm assuming your saying it is okay as long as the
drain assembly can reach the J-trap? Thanks so much for your help!
HomeAdditionPlus: Its stapled directly to the wall studs.
notta3d: This was a good video. What are your thoughts on the pre-fabricated shower
pans? They seem pretty good to me, but would like your thoughts.
HomeAdditionPlus: I highly recommend purchasing my "Shower Pan Membrane Liner Installation
Ebook" on HomeAdditionPlus. It will answer all your questions and ensure
you do it right. The Ebook is for both a wood subfloor and a concrete slab.
MAD King: Mark, does the 1/4" plywood for the second layer have to be in one piece?
And what exactly type or mortar do you use? There are several with the
yellow package available. Thank you
HomeAdditionPlus: @clapperbells The membrane liner is sandwiched in between two mortar
layers. The felt paper helps as a moisture barrier and most importantly
prevents the wicking away of moisture form the first mortar layer as it
ringopuppers: Excellent! Make me want to go rip out my shower and put in a new custom
one! :) Thanks!
mpwhat .: Thanks for this tutorial it is extremely helpful. Just curious if you used
the same mortart mix in both layers? They were both the quik-crete sand
topping mix? Thanks so much!
HomeAdditionPlus: @carmegkin Mortar is made from water, cement and sand, whereas concrete is
made from water, cement, sand and chipped rock. You use a mortar in the
shower pan so that there is no risk of sharp edges on the dried cement
mortar bed to cut into the membrane liner. We don't place mesh in the top
layer since it could potentiall poke a hole in the membrane liner.
vilma hernandez: hi i just wanted to ask u how you put the 3 2/4 together for the curb do
you use any kind of nails or just the liquid nail glue.thanks.
HomeAdditionPlus: If you prefer. Its a vapor barrier, however. It is not a material for
shedding water down to the liner.
HomeAdditionPlus: smooth side up.
HomeAdditionPlus: @starbucking It acts as a moisture barrier.
arreguin1969: My flooring is concrete floor do i need felt paper....and what is it? Do I
need a metal lath, being that I have concrete floor? What kind of mortar
should I use, there are so many? Thanks, great video...
zykopat: Awesome vid! I'm redoing the basement bathroom and I watch this vid at
every step of the project to make sure I get it right.
Lindsay Noyes: EXCELLENT VIDEO. I've been searching for 2 days for the details. This was
great. I also liked the comment on weep holes using scrungie sponge. Thanks
so much. gcn
Alan Wheeler: I am in the process of making a 2.5 x 5 ft shower. The plywood subfloor is
1 inch think. I am concerned about the weight of the shower on the support
beams. Is there any danger the shower will be too heavy and cause the whole
floor to collapse?
HomeAdditionPlus: @Alltiletube No, I've never experienced curb swelling or shrinking due to
temperature variation. The temperature in most house varies from 65 degrees
to 75 degrees, at least where I live. Possibly the small temperature spread
is why I have not seen this issue ever.
9491ryan: Oh OK, I was told that drywall would not work with a shower, but I guess
the green board is different. Thanks very much.
MAD King: Mark, why do you use a 2x3 lumber and where for the curb?
HomeAdditionPlus: @theneighborzzz1011 Yes, any home improvement center has lath.
HomeAdditionPlus: I use liquid nails and 3-1/2 inch corrosion resitant screws. You can also
use a 4x4, instead of the 2x4s for a shallower curb.
Wegner Clan: Hi, Mark. Quick question---how do you attach the 15# felt paper and metal
lath to a concrete foundation so it doesn't move around when you trowel in
the mortar and float it? Thanks.
vixfix3: Thanks so much Pebbles around the weep holes.....Awesome Just going that
extra yard I appreciate your advice Thanks so much....Max
Hutchins7308: Hi, I have ZERO experience in this. Im attempting to do a custom 4x10
handicap accessible shower for my 15 y/o daughter who is in a wheelchair.
However it is being done in a mobile home. It will be done on a 3/4 plywood
subfloor. I see that I can add more plywood however I want to keep the
height at a minimum seeing as she will be entering the shower in a w/c. My
main concern is the weight. 2 layers of mortar, cement board, tile etc.
Should I reinforce it more than with another sheet of plywood
HomeAdditionPlus: @jrodmac21 Its not useless. Its prevent mortar from clogging up the weep
holes and preventing water to drain out through them in the event of a
crack in the tile/grout and final layer of mortar.