Walter Hynson: also check the wires (positive)coming from the battery the one with the
black tape is known to have a bad crinp and the wires can seperate and
connect recrimp and retape....WCH
Steve B: Hello, I have a 2009 grand caravan. My dash lights, dome lights, upper
center stack lights, map lights and garage door opener quit working
sometimes. Van still runs fine. Its driving me crazy. They will come back
on for a couple of weeks and then go out for a couple. Any Ideas? Thanks.
ASHD has posted the same issue.
Ashleigh Kinney: Brian, I have a 99 T&C 3.8 We were just driving and the van shut off, got
it home did what you said for the cluster and all the gauges work now. Van
still will not start any suggestions? Thanks
Pathy Tummala: Brian, I have a Dodge Grand Caravan SE 1997 3.8 Liter. When I start the
ignition, engine starts and dies...showing the oil sign in the in the front
panel. I have to hit the gas pedal immediately after ignition to keep the
engine running. Engine dies when vehicle stopped at signals. It happens
intermittently. There is no pattern.
Can you suggest a solution? Let me know your location. If you are in or
around Texas, I can bring my vehicle to you. Please help me.
Stacy Denman: I have a 2002 grand caravan sport..had a new alternator and some gasket
replaced 2 weeks ago after 6 months of headache dealing with battery
issues..anyways..get it home a disconnect neg cable to battery to
re-install aftermarket stereo..(had to leave before stereo was
reconnected) Iput neg cable back on battery and now it just cranks &
cranks never turning over! grrr..headlights won't work nor does instrument
panel but door chimes and all inside lights are fine! Could this be from a
bad solder also? I just put all the $$ I could into this thing and I
really need my car to get son to school!
Jeff Killey: Time will tell. But my plymouth voyager had all these symtoms and now all
problems seem to be a thing of the past. The thing I find interesting is
that in most videos Ive seen on this issue it almost always comes down to
the same solder joint. In my research it seems better mechanics then me
have reported that solder joint to be a ground source. Everything makes
sense when they tell me that. Its an easy fix if you know WHAT to fix.
Thanks to all who pinpointed this problem
Edward Van Orden: Awesome Vid and yes sir Ron Paul...
Carl Zahradnik: This fixed my 98 t/c. I was about to push it off a cliff. I can't believe
so many Chrysler vans have this problem. and no one at Chrysler knows
anything about it.
thanks so much.
beefystik: @spelunkerd Because I've rented vehicles, and I drove them, and I know HOW
I drove them. Like rental vehicles.
Joey Joiner: I can't tell you how much I appreciate this video. Exactly the fix I need.
briansmobile1: You're welcome! Thanks for not telling everyone about my super power laser
eye beams that I cheat/solder with.
Theryansmithproject: Deffinently correct on this one Brian. Love your vids keep them up. Your my
go to guy for auto repairs. And awesome chicken coop video!
briansmobile1: @jason123456789210 Sweet man!
Joey Joiner: Brian, ok got my circuit board out and in my hands. Can't seem to find any
cracked solder joints. And yes, my '98 T&C was having exact same issues.
How much $ to send this CB to you to solder up all the joints? Thanks, Joey
Mulletsrokkify: The burn marks on the odometer displays are from the manufacturing process,
its how they get a clean vacuum. Nothing to worry about. Google "getter"
for the science bit.
P SHROFF: hahah i so happy !!!!!
beefystik: @briansmobile1 Well then, now I can't wait to see what's coming!
Amir Chillin': Can the T&C drive without the speedometer thing (the thing thatshows the
Joey Joiner: Brian, the soldering went great. Easier than I thought. Put it all back
together, cranked it up and she purred like a cat. Thank you again! Joey
landlockedviking: excellent job! Hey you should do one on replacing a crank postion sensor on
those caravans, another no start culprit.
briansmobile1: There should be some trouble codes you can provide me.
briansmobile1: That could be a fuel issue too. I'd fuel pressure test it off and running
Tim R: So the only time is will cause the vehicle not to run is when the head unit
goes out? What i mean is.., If the cluster is on and lights up that means
it will not cause it not to start right? Great vid Brian. Thanks.
chickenofsea: Is that gettering on the inside of the VFD? I know vacuum tubes have that
in them to "eat up" any oxygen in the tube that may leak in and is
completly normal (if it isn't there, you've got trouble...)
briansmobile1: @RX7GSLSEowner You bet. I get parts cheaper because I buy a lot of them.
The more you buy of most everything the more negotiating leverage you have.
In Auto parts it's built right into the system usually haggle free. Some
places I set my own price- other places will price match etc. On the phone
I ask for cost (me), list (retail), and availability (do they have it in
TrueBlueEG8: love how u give eric a shout on this, my other favourite youtuber :-)
Devin Stoick: Ty so much for your response. I have replaced the cluster and also soldered
all the pins on the black plug in, i seen you were soldering the odometer
pins? Do they need to be done also? I have checked all of the smaller fuses
and they were good. Im stumped and really don't wanna take it to a dealer.
The PCM was just replaced also
JohnzCarz: Good catch. They build billions of PC boards every year (TVs, phones,
computers), you would think they had the process down by now to eliminate
cold solder joints.
verenov77: Man, thanks so much for this video. Just encountered this today with the
family van and was at a complete loss on what it was. After doing much
research and watching numerous videos, I went back to the van, smacked the
top of the dash, and voila! All instruments came on, vehicle started, so
happy for the moment. I'm going to attempt to fix this sucker in a couple
of days, and your video was the only one that showed the exact van and
problems. Anyway, to make a short story long, thanks.
bubbacrabb: I like how thourough your videos are. You really go the extra mile to make
sure common folk people can figure it out.
trunitemare: @briansmobile1 Wow! 800 bucks, now that's major.
Jon M.: Dude Macgyver ain't got nothing on you.
Andy Fetisov: & u so happi ya
briansmobile1: Man you're getting close- I'm excited to hear the good results!
Standingwithfeast: Being aware and prepare for some time is a good thing. I am glad for your
brother that he was prepared. As for many folks who suffered by the
layoffs, if I am not wrong that warning signs and voices of warning had
gone out years ago. I wonder how bad it has to be before more folks wake up
from their sleep.
SiRHumpAlot924: Bad ass man, love youre soldiering technique Brian. Ohh by the way keep the
briansmobile1: @elic123456 Thanks! I know/love/admire most of my customers so I try to do
briansmobile1: It sounds like an internal transmission issue to me. I'd check the fluid
level first. When these leak from the front valve body and get two quarts
low, they go into "safe mode" and shift hard at low speed like that.
briansmobile1: Either you need to add some solder to the back of the pin connectors on the
instrument cluster, or you have a blown fuse.
Edmund Mendez: Nice video, I always learn something good. Thank God for the junkyard or
I'd be so broke with the dealer. Nissan dealer charged me for $7 for a
goddamn o-ring for a radiator drain plug.
briansmobile1: It may be a problem with your PRNDL circuit but it may also be that your
transmission fluid is low and you're in safe mode.
Dave Vorhies: when you start it up it runs for a few seconds and dies it may not be your
head unit it could be your fuel pump try hitting the tank while someone
cranks it and see if it starts I had this very similar issue with my T&C
and replaced a head unit and still nothing until it occurred to me the fuel
is not pumping to the injectors and it turns out it was the Fuel Pump and
Amir Chillin': Thanks soooo much for answering my Questions Brian... Make sure to Sub to
LilBoy5835 (My other YouTube Channel)...
JudyMae: Thank you, thank you, thank you! My instrument panel would quit while
driving. I would just give it a whack and everything would come back on.
Hubby waits until things totally fail - has no time and those random things
are harder to find. Today engine started but wouldn't keep running.
Wouldn't have tied those two things together if not for your video. Gave
the dash a whack and now stays running. Hubby will solder because mine only
temporary solution. Now, where do u live? ;)
briansmobile1: @solman182 In the parts world it's "head unit" refering to the whole thing.
To drivers, owners manuals etc. it's instrument cluster (same).
Dave Vorhies: the 2 burn marks your seeing in the do and selector is Normal its just the
LED heating up its totally normal the burn- in is done at the assembly
plant that makes them when they QC test them they will leave burn marks
indicating they are working
fenderstratguy: Great vid. Thanks a lot for posting. I am going to solder my friend's board
soon as he takes it out. He is a mechanic but not an electronics whiz so
would rather not fiddle with a soldering iron. I so happy!
beefystik: Brian, where's the new vids man? I love yer work. I miss you :(
James M Skipper: Well, I'm happy that I was able to do all the work with no problem, but
that didn't fix it. I THOUGHT it had at first, but it went back to the
intermittent mode. I'm going to pull the BCM next and see what I can do
with it. Still, you made a great video. I have a set of still photos that
I'll be putting on the web soon.
verenov77: Oh, also. Forgot to mention this (those little things, right?). Liked the
poster you stood in front of for no reason :)