Brent Komon: hi I'm having some what of the same issue only my dash lights all work never a problem there. so anyhow driving down the road it will die u hear a hiss and a small thud then it will start and run fine again for the rest of the day or sometimes it will do it three or four times is this the same issue your showing or do I have another problem code scan says insufficient power at bcm and no cam location I've already replaced cam and crank sensor not new to this just stumped
Irmenia Boyd: Thanks Brian my van has this issue I figure it had something to do with the anti theft. It has been intermittently so I wasn't driving it far. This is awesome Thanks again.
mark vanvleck: I redid the pins with my soldering iron and it still don't work. What can it be now?
Richard Reichard: Thank you so much. Our van is identical like the one in this video and had exactly the same symptoms. I followed your excellent instructions and it is fixed. Thanks again!!!
Tommy Ziambaras: You're a life saver! Thank you so much for helping us out by posting this video. God bless you.
The Video Realm: I have to disconnect the battery on my 2012. When driving Battery, Altenater, Oil, Traction will cycle through. RPM, Gas, MPH will move erratically. A ding sound is heard. if I turn it off the car won't start again. No crank no start. Horn, Headlights and all electronics work fine. I have to disconnect battery again to restart. Any thoughts. TIPM has been replaced.
Larry Fries: this video is absolutely correct it takes about 1 hour to pull that instrument cluster out those 8 points of solder joints need to be resolder now here is the next thing there is a cable connector that goes to the injectors about 1 inch in diameter it has a clamp on it to keep it falling on the exhaust manifold mine did burn through blew ignition fuse I disconnected it from the injectors strip off all the tape found it cut the bad places out of two wires you will have to add wire use shrink tube use a great big heavy tie wrap also found a piece of plastic split tube that normally covers the wires installed it then taped it all up if you blow an ignition fuse look at the exhaust manifold on the left side by the battery that is a common problem for that connection to pull loose the plastic clamp is at the throttle cable support bracket good luck
Martin Weimer: Recently bought a '97 Caravan for $1,100. I was warned that it had a "computer problem" that stranded the previous owner twice. Van worked great until I removed the cassette/radio for cleaning this morning. I must have jiggled the speedometer connector. Followed your instructions to the letter, and it is repaired. Thank you for these instructions. They really work great!
steven krueger: hey brian I need help with my 2000 t&c air cond calibration can you help me?? the twp far right buttons continue to blink ??? steve
Mike davis: gave u a thumbs up for the Ron Paul reference....would've been nice to see a libertarian ad President for a change. and oh yea the instructions were great. worked like a charm on my 97 town and country. I still wonder why Chrysler didn't issue a recall for this. everyone I know with a late 90's dodge or Chrysler van has this issue
Mark Cob: set ur vid lens to a 10cm "macro", BAM, solder joints will look like crystal sharp Eiffel towers ;)
PaullyBB: Too bad there isn't a way to reset a speedometer on a 98 Grand Voyager. I usually had too beat on my dash to get it to come to life to keep the odometer and gear shift selector lit, but the latest time it didn't work resulting with my speedometer needle popping off. I put the needle back on & now it reads about 35 mph slow. The self diagnostic does not correct this.
Robert Oehme: IT W O R K SSS JUST DID IT TODAY , NOW I AM ON MY WAY AGAIN.. THANK YOU GREAT IDEA AND FIX
Michael Herman: Addition: In the case of my instrument cluster board, the WIRE thru-hole connections from the board front to back had cracked, (S33 in particular) just at the solder joint. It was NOT the soldering of the integrated circuits. So if you inspect your board, look also at the wires and not only at the IC pin soldering.
Michael Herman: Brilliant and very valuable YouTube. Thank you very very much for your work on this.
Amanda Lawson: my van is doing this exact thing. starts then dies no dash at all. Rt now it's not even turning over. it's a 2006 Chrysler Town and country
Gerald Farrell: thanx Brian, you da man
You Can't Polish A Turd:6:58 that's it!!!!!! The god damn antitheft bullcrap!!!!!! Thanx now I know now I need to learn how to fix it I'm rewatch It. $160 extra key bull crap!!! I wish they would steal my damn van!!!!!
David Beller, MD.: Thanks for the tip. Going to have to do the same thing on an F-250 cluster. Guess that's China made components for ya. Thanks....
Gerórimo “Tito” Calderon: hola tengo Chrysler modelo 1998 Town & Country la cual no trabaja el tablero y no enciende; prende 3 segundos y se apaga y enciende la lámpara de alarma, en ocasiones vuelve aprender el tablero y enciende. Se revisó lo siguiente, se quitó el tablero y se revisó la soldadura y se re soldó nuevamente, y nada se probó con otro tablero y nada, se revisó las tierras que van abajo de la batería y están bien, se revisó y se quitó el fusible IOD y nada, supuestamente revisaron módulo body que se ubica abajo del tablero la probaron en otra camioneta y funciona. Pero aclaro en ocasiones enciende normal dura un rato y falla nuevamente. La pregunta es si se pueden revisar módulos y si son reparables o hay otra cosa que está fallando... Gracias
How to fix your Dodge Chrysler mini van when it starts and then dies No instrument display5
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