gabriel hansen: I did the same as you did but found out the red pin "plug" that plugs into
the back of the cluster board had been disfigured a little which kept
losing the connection. I took a small nail and pushed the metal female
connection up to make the connection tighter. Now it connects tight.
darianwj: Good info! Thank you!
Walter Hynson: also check the wires (positive)coming from the battery the one with the
black tape is known to have a bad crinp and the wires can seperate and
connect recrimp and retape....WCH
Michael Kesner: thank you so much, the exact problem on my van - should save a whole lot of
money and irritation
MinnesotaMichele: I owe you a huge thank you Brian! Last summer, my '97 T&C started
intermittently killing seconds after starting. Alarm set light would go
on, so I knew it was thinking someone was stealing the car. We got it
running after pulling the positive wire off the battery then re-installing
it. Well, that only lasted a few months until Oct., when nothing would get
it to stay running. The know-it-all mechanic kept going on about the
computer, the BCM, and some other thing; but it was in his shop twice and
he fixed other stuff except this. Now, I'm glad he didn't, because he
probably would have replaced all those parts and it still wouldn't have
run, costing $1K+!
There is a guy on eBay that you can send it your BCM to fix for $150, 100%
feedback, but because at first it was an intermittent problem, sounded more
like a board/connection issue, instead of a BCM going bad, so I decided to
try your fix first. It helped I've had a year of soldering experience, but
your video helped me tons in how to remove the dash and everything else.
Only took me one afternoon, I soldered about 2 dozen "iffy" looking solder
joints, put it all back into place, and after charging up the battery,
BAM! It stayed running on the first try, even though I could tell it was
burning old gas in the tank from all winter just parked in the driveway. I
started and stopped it about 10 times, letting it run a minute each time, I
was in complete amazement that it was running and drove it up town to get
more gas. I'm so happy to keep this van running, and for cheap, thanks to
Brian Wirt: Dodge / Chrysler should be paying for this crap. My 97 same thing. Thanks
for posting this repair video. I knew banging on the dash worked, now I
Zenssssful: Thanks .
Susan Kolakowski: Thank you, I went to start my Caravan this morning and it would just stall
out.I did this fix and it is running good again.
Grand Homan: can this also be a problem for a 2001
Pathy Tummala: Brian, I have a Dodge Grand Caravan SE 1997 3.8 Liter. When I start the
ignition, engine starts and dies...showing the oil sign in the in the front
panel. I have to hit the gas pedal immediately after ignition to keep the
engine running. Engine dies when vehicle stopped at signals. It happens
intermittently. There is no pattern.
Can you suggest a solution? Let me know your location. If you are in or
around Texas, I can bring my vehicle to you. Please help me.
Steve B: Hello, I have a 2009 grand caravan. My dash lights, dome lights, upper
center stack lights, map lights and garage door opener quit working
sometimes. Van still runs fine. Its driving me crazy. They will come back
on for a couple of weeks and then go out for a couple. Any Ideas? Thanks.
ASHD has posted the same issue.
Ashleigh Kinney: Brian, I have a 99 T&C 3.8 We were just driving and the van shut off, got
it home did what you said for the cluster and all the gauges work now. Van
still will not start any suggestions? Thanks
Carl Zahradnik: This fixed my 98 t/c. I was about to push it off a cliff. I can't believe
so many Chrysler vans have this problem. and no one at Chrysler knows
anything about it.
thanks so much.
Edward Van Orden: Awesome Vid and yes sir Ron Paul...
Jeff Killey: Time will tell. But my plymouth voyager had all these symtoms and now all
problems seem to be a thing of the past. The thing I find interesting is
that in most videos Ive seen on this issue it almost always comes down to
the same solder joint. In my research it seems better mechanics then me
have reported that solder joint to be a ground source. Everything makes
sense when they tell me that. Its an easy fix if you know WHAT to fix.
Thanks to all who pinpointed this problem
Steve B: Instrument panel problem. 2009 dodge grand caravan
bitfuse: I have this problem and my dealer don't know "but we can look at it for
you"they say. YEAH right! At a cost of 200 USD pr hour when they don't know
what to look for.....
I'll go for Your solution. Thanks!
Karl Nylén Norway
Mrs.FixIt: Brian do you have a video on repairing the e brake cable, while removing
the bottom panel in the repair of the cluster in the dashboard. It pulled
itself off on my 99 town and country. Thank You
mozzmann: Hey Dude it is S O L D E R Solder with a bloody "L" in it OK, NOT SODA
freaking bastardized English craps me to tears. Anyway I believe that Stall
is the wrong word you can't stall an Auto.
I can't see how dry joints in the Instrument cluster would make the vehicle
stop, unless this triggers a fail safe function in the BCM/ECU. Ours is
misbehaving in a similar fashion but the US and Foreign versions are likely
Oh by the way your assumption about the burning in the display is
completely incorrect, That is a material that is burn't inside the glass
capsule on purpose to remove any vestige of oxygen from within the
fluorescent display, this IS NOT LED look at the Anode heater wires that
are glowing in the dark when you shut the car off.
beefystik: @spelunkerd Because I've rented vehicles, and I drove them, and I know HOW
I drove them. Like rental vehicles.
Joey Joiner: I can't tell you how much I appreciate this video. Exactly the fix I need.
briansmobile1: You're welcome! Thanks for not telling everyone about my super power laser
eye beams that I cheat/solder with.
Theryansmithproject: Deffinently correct on this one Brian. Love your vids keep them up. Your my
go to guy for auto repairs. And awesome chicken coop video!
briansmobile1: @jason123456789210 Sweet man!
Joey Joiner: Brian, ok got my circuit board out and in my hands. Can't seem to find any
cracked solder joints. And yes, my '98 T&C was having exact same issues.
How much $ to send this CB to you to solder up all the joints? Thanks, Joey
Mulletsrokkify: The burn marks on the odometer displays are from the manufacturing process,
its how they get a clean vacuum. Nothing to worry about. Google "getter"
for the science bit.
P SHROFF: hahah i so happy !!!!!
beefystik: @briansmobile1 Well then, now I can't wait to see what's coming!
Rahman Ghereb: Can the T&C drive without the speedometer thing (the thing thatshows the
Joey Joiner: Brian, the soldering went great. Easier than I thought. Put it all back
together, cranked it up and she purred like a cat. Thank you again! Joey
landlockedviking: excellent job! Hey you should do one on replacing a crank postion sensor on
those caravans, another no start culprit.
briansmobile1: There should be some trouble codes you can provide me.
briansmobile1: That could be a fuel issue too. I'd fuel pressure test it off and running
Tim R: So the only time is will cause the vehicle not to run is when the head unit
goes out? What i mean is.., If the cluster is on and lights up that means
it will not cause it not to start right? Great vid Brian. Thanks.
chickenofsea: Is that gettering on the inside of the VFD? I know vacuum tubes have that
in them to "eat up" any oxygen in the tube that may leak in and is
completly normal (if it isn't there, you've got trouble...)
briansmobile1: @RX7GSLSEowner You bet. I get parts cheaper because I buy a lot of them.
The more you buy of most everything the more negotiating leverage you have.
In Auto parts it's built right into the system usually haggle free. Some
places I set my own price- other places will price match etc. On the phone
I ask for cost (me), list (retail), and availability (do they have it in
TrueBlueEG8: love how u give eric a shout on this, my other favourite youtuber :-)
Devin Stoick: Ty so much for your response. I have replaced the cluster and also soldered
all the pins on the black plug in, i seen you were soldering the odometer
pins? Do they need to be done also? I have checked all of the smaller fuses
and they were good. Im stumped and really don't wanna take it to a dealer.
The PCM was just replaced also
JohnzCarz: Good catch. They build billions of PC boards every year (TVs, phones,
computers), you would think they had the process down by now to eliminate
cold solder joints.
GravelsteinGaming: Man, thanks so much for this video. Just encountered this today with the
family van and was at a complete loss on what it was. After doing much
research and watching numerous videos, I went back to the van, smacked the
top of the dash, and voila! All instruments came on, vehicle started, so
happy for the moment. I'm going to attempt to fix this sucker in a couple
of days, and your video was the only one that showed the exact van and
problems. Anyway, to make a short story long, thanks.
bubbacrabb: I like how thourough your videos are. You really go the extra mile to make
sure common folk people can figure it out.
trunitemare: @briansmobile1 Wow! 800 bucks, now that's major.
Jon M.: Dude Macgyver ain't got nothing on you.
Andy Fetisov: & u so happi ya
briansmobile1: Man you're getting close- I'm excited to hear the good results!
Standingwithfeast: Being aware and prepare for some time is a good thing. I am glad for your
brother that he was prepared. As for many folks who suffered by the
layoffs, if I am not wrong that warning signs and voices of warning had
gone out years ago. I wonder how bad it has to be before more folks wake up
from their sleep.
SiRHumpAlot924: Bad ass man, love youre soldiering technique Brian. Ohh by the way keep the
briansmobile1: @elic123456 Thanks! I know/love/admire most of my customers so I try to do
briansmobile1: It sounds like an internal transmission issue to me. I'd check the fluid
level first. When these leak from the front valve body and get two quarts
low, they go into "safe mode" and shift hard at low speed like that.
briansmobile1: Either you need to add some solder to the back of the pin connectors on the
instrument cluster, or you have a blown fuse.