Tribe Judah: thank u for the info. very helpful .
DJSkyede: Lag screws have pointed ends, just like smaller screws that you use a screwdriver with. They are not designed to be capped with a nut. They are designed to go straight into wood and stop inside it. The only difference between them and regular screws is that they are larger and you use a socket and wrench to screw them in.
Tribe Judah: u dont need to put nuts on the lag screws?
DJSkyede: It never occurred to me that there are recommended pilot hole sizes, but that makes sense. Thanks for pointing out that they exist; I might reference them if I ever make another one of these. Really, I can't imagine they would have been much smaller than mine. I wound up drilling all of my pilots too small and incremented upwards one size at a time until I had a good feel. Maybe it was just the type/age of wood I was using that affected my decisions. I live in an old house.
Joseph Parks: Yes I did. I used your plan pretty much to a T except I did not drill my pilot holes as large as you. I read some wood-working sites and used the recommended size pilot hole and then used beezwax to help the bolts go in easier. It is definitely solid as a rock though. Thanks for the detailed videos!
DJSkyede: Hi Joe. Did you ever get the bar made?
DJSkyede: Yeah, if I had the incentive to make another bar, I'd do a better video. It was the best I could do on a first pass. I'm glad you found it helpful
siccen s: Very nice job on the pull-up bar. You drive me absolutely freaking nuts watching this, but still, good video, good design.
DJSkyede: Driving out there would probably be impractical :) If you use a tiny drill bit to fish out the sides of the joists (like I did in one of the videos), you shouldn't have a problem finding their exact locations. If you want to know more about them, you could always contact the architect for the plans. Or you could cut a temporary hole in the ceiling drywall and examine them that way. Drywall is not that hard to patch.
Joseph Parks: Yeah, that is what I was thinking too. However, I am scared to death of messing up my ceiling joists especially since this is a basement and I can't crawl into the space above to see them and I am guessing it is all weight bearing for the upper floor. So I was leaning towards the wall mount but now I'm not again. How much you charge to drive to KY to install...LOL?
DJSkyede: replied... see my comments
not worried about my video comments getting clogged... this video has been up for almost a year and very few people have commented on it. I appreciate the interest.
DJSkyede: which would bend and stress nipples that are as long as he is using. His nipples have to be longer because he wouldn't have wall clearance otherwise. So, because he has to use longer nipples in a lateral stress configuration, he has to use four of them instead of two for stabilization purposes.
DJSkyede: Also, the screws would have to be pretty long to get a good grip, despite their thinness. You could probably adapt my oak board solution without any problem. Then you could use long lag screws like I do. Then again, it starts to get impractical because you'd have to use the same amount and type of hardware as he is using. The reason is because, instead of a downward pull on the nipples as in my configuration, you have a lateral pull in this configuration,
DJSkyede: There's a fair amount more hardware involved, some of those pipe fittings aren't particularly cheap, for example the flanges alone were around $7 each. But it could work; my only observation is that his flanges must only be using two screws each, because the 2x4 in the wall (assuming it's pine and not thin drywall metal-- very important distinction-- are you sure which type you have?) is not wide enough to accomodate each flange's four screws.
Joseph Parks: Sent message instead of clogging up your video comments.
DJSkyede: Ask yourself, does it REALLY need to be facing in one direction rather than the other? When I set out to build my bar, I envisioned it facing in the other direction. Eventually, though, I realized that this was just an initial cosmetic preference. Now I don't mind its orientation at all.
DJSkyede: I'm certainly not an engineer or anything close to it, but I have done enough projects to know what tends to foul up over time. I designed this bar to be fool-proof, and I would have to say that all your weight swinging on a single joist completely opposite of the way the joist is running could cause unwanted stress on the joist. A year from now, when you see your ceiling drywall swaying or cracking, you're going to be kicking yourself.
Joseph Parks: Unfortunately, I just noticed that my ceiling joists are running the wrong way. To mount the 48" bar that I made in the spot I wanted it, it would have to mount on one joist. With my weight being distributed over 50", distance between anchor points, do you think one joist would be sufficient or do I need to figure out some way to span two joists? My weight is 225.
DJSkyede: Solid as a rock, even for two people. This thing is permanent, just as I designed it to be. Happy New Year!
Joseph Parks: Are you still satisfied with your install? Is it holding up well to the kipping style pull-up? Anything you would change?
How to build a ceiling-mounted pullup bar (Part 10 of 10)5
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