The Basics Of Car Audio Speaker Replacement -EricTheCarGuy




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Alexander p: my speakers to thick for my doors

cpufukr: hi Eric   awesome install--- I  dread removing my DOOR PANELS -COVERS  ..SOON...LOL

Jason Kellogg: Love the video it was very helpful but change that music or whatever that sound is 😂

Pogaspm: Can't you just figure which one is the positive with a multimeter?

Face1ift: what are cords you connected the connector with

Robert Coffey: I'd recommend pioneer over kicker if they're within a similar price range. The A series of pioneer speakers are really good for the money.

muff patrol: One thing, it's not the door 'skin' It's the door pannel. The skin is the sheet of metal that goes over the outside of the door making it look smooth and sleek and part of the shape of the car.

Tristan Wendt: its not called the cone its called the surround but sometimes i accidentally call it the cone too

Andrew Coffey: What was the song you played when you tested the stock speakers? With the keyboard? It was sick

Lost in Sauce: This is insanely inconvenient. Can I just pay a professional to do this?

thehegt Tr: order from Clutchfield you will get the hardness connector for free you don't have to cut the factory hardness like he did .

Fly house of truth: Ford likes to make me guess on the + and the - Nothing to indicate just a color with a stripe and I'm supposed to know? How hard is it to mark a pos or a neg, a little red dot, something. The aftermarket speakers are marked + and - I don't understand why Ford have to make it so hard. I did the only thing I could do. Set the factory and aftermarket speakers side by side and matched the wires by direction, right and left. I hope they all put the + on the same side of speakers both factory and aftermarket.

Bill Boyle: Thought to stop by and review this video while I'm installing new rear speakers in my 1979 TA. Original 6x9 rear speakers are shot so new speakers are necessary. With 2nd gen F-body cars (Camaro /Firebird) the factory did little to provide sound deadening material on the flimsy package tray sheet metal where the speakers mount. I've already added Dynamat to areas on the metal shelf to reduce vibration and resonance. Insulation is going on top followed by the new package tray. Listening to music in the future should be considerably better than it used to be...a very good thing.

TheDrcosmic: USA : package tray
UK: parcel shelf

Henry Myers: Great video!

WILLIAM GRAYSON: Is there any wiring diagrams on the internet???

AYER07 Doesn't Kid: damn you look like my uncle in this video lol, he's a good mechanic to haha

eric brugioni: what if the speakers run at higher watts do you need an amp

Annie Worroll: Huh. How did I not find this when I replaced the speakers on my car a couple weeks ago?

Thankfully it was pretty straightforward, the salvage yard had several cars with compatible speakers so it was pretty easy.

Turned the bottom part with the magnet on the rear speakers into magnetic parts trays. Sadly, the front speakers didn't have a bowl section, just the frame.

Derek D: great video! in terms of electrical signal for speakers there is no quality difference between solder and crimp. solder if preferred by manufacturers as it makes tinier components possible. A crimp connection will always standup overtime way better compared to solder as solder is weakened over time and becomes brittle and will suffer from vibrations unlike crimp. to each their own though.
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The Basics of Car Audio Speaker Replacement -EricTheCarGuy