pei bossman: what is wrong when the chain tightner on a 290 Stihl chainsaw when
the tightner tightens out before the chain is tight? thanks...
Don Walker: Thanks, you illustrated that soooo good.
Aaron Belcher: Very helpful, nice and very clear tutorial. You da man.
Patrick McMurray: This is a professional quality vid. Clear picture, clear voice, organized
and methodical. Thank you! I am subscribed.
bcamk: Nice video, but I think part of your problem is that you are missing the
cover washer that goes between the clutch and the oil drive gear. There
may be too much slop without it, besides debris getting in there.
FoMoCo1: Great video, very well done.
Edward Metts: Thank's very Helpful,exspecially when broke.
TheDisorderly1: Why did the worm gear wear? Was the pump clogged or is this a normal wear
item that just needs replaced after awhile?
Robin Read: Very well explained - thanks
Frank Murray: I can't find any problem with the oiling. I think I will just turn the
adjuster underneath up to maximum oiling. I am reassembling but have hit a
problem; the clutch housing won't sit down flat due to the circular sprung
steel I mentioned in previous post. I can't get it to sit down sufficient
to get the circlip on. I can see that you have to line up the worm gear
arm. Have you any suggestions ?
Frank Murray: I'm answering my own question !
I found a notch on the clutch cover the worm gear arm engages in.
I took the pump out and it is pumping OK when the cog is turned. The oil
supply to the bar gallery is OK that leaves only the supply from the oil
resevoir. A friend has my air compressor, but when I get it back I will try
some compressed air through the pipe.
Its got me thinking there is nothing wrong. I have heard that this model
(Stihl ms361c) does not produce much oil anyway. There is an adjustment
underneath to increase oil supply
There is a spring steel circle of metal that runs round the inside
circumference of the clutch housing about 3/8ths inch wide, what is its
purpose ? It looks like it might be difficult to get the clutch cover back
because of it.
William Mackinlay: Very informative well presented really appreciate the help
Frank Murray: Great video, but can you help?
I'm at the stage where I have taken out the worm gear ( StihlMS361c)
There doesn't appear to be any problem with the worm gear, but I don't
understand how it works. You say the worm arm picks up the drive from the
clutch, but I don't see how it does it. There is a smooth plate behind the
clutch and I can't see anything for the end of the worm arm to engage in?
I bought the chainsaw second hand recently. Thanks
Bubba Gump: just use a bigger piece of rope and you wont have to use as long of a
truesician: thanks very much, that's very clear
Jerad L: Just had to get that god bless in there.
micdal22: Excellent video. 10/10. Thanks.
I have a Stihl 009 that's not pumping oil, so I'll check the worm gear and
maybe fix the problem?
Roger Robinson: nice video
rschandran: Very instructive video. My new Sthil MS 250 is exhibiting this same
problem and as this is still under warranty, took it back to the service
center. Hopefully they are going to fix it without any cost to me but at
least I know exactly what is involved in repairing this if it happens when
out of warranty.
KyleCarrington: How much more is involved to change the pump as well?
AnagramForCraig: nice video!
smallengineshop: Leaving the screwdriver in the cylinder/head might damage the engine.
Marty James: Great Video. Thank you !
DrunkenNuts: my 034 av super has a chain break. can i just use that to hold the clutch?
Cody Castro: I need help. My ms 180 bogs down when I press on throttle. After play with
the throttle it will stay on. Do you have some ideas. Please email me at
Moluaa: Great video tutorial. Just 1 question is the rope really necessary. would
leaving the screw driver in do the trick?
smallengineshop: Thanks for watching
Husqvarna365xp: Excellent video, very easy to follow and saved me $85 an hour at the
dealer. I was so confused on the clutch removal not seeing any threads for
taking it off, now its all cleared up!
DerricksonJ: nice video, good job explaining
smallengineshop: Thanks. Good Comment.
lawnboy1100: I would of put a new hub on also to save some time later.
William Todd: Great video as always. Not only is it a great idea to always disconnect the
spark plug before doing any repairs, but its a great idea to let the
equipment cool down first if you have been using it prior to doing the
repair. Can't count the number of times I've seen people burn the crap out
of themselves LOL.
Todd Knoll: great video! thanks for taking the time to film!
DrunkenNuts: nevermind, not even close. lol
atomhartmother: How about showing us a good way to get a stuck drum off. I don't want to
get to rough with the saw.
JCC0728: Great presentation. Thanks
hddm3: thank you again for another great video.
sticko1970: Great video easy to understand.Thanks.
smallengineshop: Glad it helped...
les4lifepaul: No. The chain brake consists of a steel band that wraps around the
drum/sprocket. The drum/sprocket has to be removed in order to access the
clutch for removal. You can do the rope in the spark plug hole just
remember the connecting rod will bend if you crank on it too hard. The
impact wrench he used in the beginning to remove the bar nuts would be
ideal for removing the clutch, that way you wont have to worry about
messing up the engine or locking the chain.
Michael Tucker: great video, got the same problem on my husky 45 so im hoping its the same
procedure, rgds mike from Scotland,
How to Replace the Bar & Chain Oil Pump Worm Gear on a Stihl MS 029 Chainsaw4.8
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