East Teak Fine Hardwoods, Inc.: Great video!
Joseph .D Gunning: Very helpful, I am doing my first strip build Adirondack guide boat and
about to do the first coat of varnish. I appreciate you sharing your
experiences and look forward to seeing more from you.
vikingwhite: I picked up the West Marine system you're using to finish all the outside
and inside trim on a small wooden weekender... the gentleman there said
this was easier than varnishing and didn't mention need for it nor sell me
any varnish. Will it turn horribly yellow if I don't do the varnish
especially on the outside trim in the sun?
Stevie Wonder: DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE ALL AIR BUBBLES BEFORE IT CURES!!!
MyStuff: Hello, Trying this method on swim platform. First time using epoxy. Blew it
first time;too cold, had to sand it off. Second attempt came out nice. Put
two coats on bottom side. Problem with drips around edges when I flipped
it, will have to sand them off. When I coat the top side can I tape the
bottom edges to catch the drips?
Patrick van Wijland: Hiya Andy,
If I'll use this method will this also strenghten the wood.
Thanks and keep up the good work with your video's
thomasuras: What do you think of the German product coelan ?
rootsofone: Much appreciated!
BoatworksToday: Unfortunately I do not have a drum sander and I've never used one (although
my shoulders wish that I did sometimes). So not much help there.. I
typically run the wood through my planer, a light sanding with some 180 -
220 and it's ready for finishing :-)
BoatworksToday: Yes on the sanding between every coat (320 - 400 grit) and depending on the
size of the area you're finishing a little thinner (10% or so) will give
you a bit more working time before you lose the wet edge for blending. With
poly, apply thin coats as it can have a tendency to run. Foam brushes work
well with this...
BoatworksToday: @valeriemd2b Yes.. As far as adhesion this will work with all woods (some
like teak that are oily require a little extra prep as outlined in the
video). However I would test a scrap piece to make sure it gives the color
and tone you're looking for when finished.
BoatworksToday: @Darknights7 I'd still use acetone, without a clean dry surface the epoxy
won't get a good bond. The 205 hardener will work just fine, but will
darken the maple a bit. Are you making the boards or fixing them up?
salbal777: If I'm using Polyurethane varnish do I need to sand between coats? do I
need to add thinner or spirit to Polyurethane varnish?
BoatworksToday: Very slippery unless something is sprinkled in for texture or some strips
of grip tape are applied.. the tape might actually look nice, 3M makes a
clear 1" grip tape..
cruizin31: Bedding compound doesn't provide a vapor barrier. A piece of wood must be
completely encapsulated in resin to prevent the ingress of water in the
form of vapor. Moreover, fastener holes must be sealed with epoxy as well.
If the fasteners allow in any moisture, I guarantee coating failure. This
is all covered on the west systems website, by the way. What about an
exterior door with a panel designed to float in the frame? Epoxy over that?
Sorry, but it's a short term fix with long term issues.
cruizin31: The trouble with this method is that it doesn't address wood movement.
Particularly with exterior brightwork, unless the piece is completely
encapsulated in resin, the wood will move and the coating will fail. When
it does, you have a real mess on your hands. If you are using an epoxy
underlayment on exterior brightwork that is not sealed on the backside and
water vapor can get in around the fasteners, you are in for a rude
awakening a year down the road. I'm no purist, just been there.
BoatworksToday: Labor rate depends on a few things. Your area, level of experience,
operating costs (insurance) and reputation. It's a fairly difficult thing
to just jump into without references. But a starting point would be to
contact a few of the local marinas and ask what their labor rate is for
brightwork finishers and check to see what their liability requirements are
for outside contractors to work in their yards. :-)
BoatworksToday: Yup. Many kayak and paddle board manufacturers will do this to provide a
layer of protection. You can sand and repair scratches in FG; you're pretty
much hosed if you try to do this directly on CF
dreammaker: thanx for tutorial mate, you're awesome.. I just wonder one thing. Do 105
resin and 207 hardener never get yellow? How about pouring onto a colorful
image? Will it look crystal clear?
BoatworksToday: I'm very familiar with West System and have spoken with them on numerous
occasions. Sorry, but couldn't disagree with you more. Bedding compounds
are a sealant (key word, SEAL). Moisture does not permeate this material,
otherwise it would not make a very good choice for water proofing now would
it? :-) Properly refinishing a floating paneled door does NOT entail
locking the panel in with epoxy or finish. You lost me there.. Dozens of
boats, hundreds of parts over 15 years. Not 1 failure ;-)
theoutmoreproject: love y vids, got the stuff t build a pontoon/cat, had t make it modular as
i have no space.Never seen 1 on t canals of england so shld b a 1 off. I
dont expect the parts t last that long so have designed it t have removable
parts.So far all the stuff cost £700, 2months of bargain hunting. Was going
t use poly but after looking in2 it decided 2use epoxy for the pontoons and
base with poly upstairs. What bottom paint should i use over the epoxy?
realy worried about failure and water ingres.cheers
BoatworksToday: Epoxy as a base would offer good protection, but may be a little pricey.
Also, using a high gloss finish for the topcoat (varnish) may not be the
best choice. Varnish is relatively soft for 'working surfaces' like table
tops, chairs, etc. It will scratch easily and being a high gloss EVERY
imperfection will stand out like a sore thumb. Exterior finishes are tricky
trying to find a balance between protection and appearance. I'd look at
Sikkens stains or decking products w/ UV protection :-)
Guillaume Breton: does epoxy "self levels" or do you see much brush strikes after its cured ?
also, i tried to sand epoxy (filled some nots) and it was impossible, the
heat was "melting" the epoxy and it remained tacky all the time. I probably
didnt mix it well enough or didnt put enough hardener in it ? tyvm, nice
BoatworksToday: Well, I guess I have nothing else to say; sounds like you know all there is
to know about refinishing brightwork. I do have to ask though, if my videos
are so poor and lacking vital info then why does West System post my vids
on their FaceBook page and refer their customers to my site for proper
instruction? Hmm, I have to wonder if all the times you "found out the hard
way" if maybe you were just doing it wrong? Guess I'll never know.. Please
feel free to show me how it's done.
BoatworksToday: @Darknights7 The epoxy shouldn't effect the glue used for laminating the
boards, and once cured the epoxy needs to be sanded before painting.
Although, I don't know how much just coating the sides of a pre-laminated
board will actually strengthen things? Won't hurt, but not sure how much it
will actually help... Only thing to do is experiment and see what happens...
BoatworksToday: Usually compressed air to blow the dry dust off then tack rag, or solvent
wipe with the varnish thinner (mineral spirits works as well) and tack
rag.. In a pinch, clean water will work as well...
Darknights7: @boatworkstoday Making :) Ohh darken will be nice too i dont mind. So the
acetone wont affect the glue right? and.. can i paint ontop of epoxy once
Darknights7: @boatworkstoday Well thank you for informing me at least before i went
ahead and went nuts.. joking. nah i was planning to apply to the sides of
my skateboards/longboards so that they dont seperate the layers due to
harsh riding. (Since the veneers are 8+ layers laminated together) and this
is for maple, so i dont think i need acetone? Would it really matter if i
didnt care about the maple's colour showing on the sides and i could just
use my 205 hardener? The hardeners are really expensive..
BoatworksToday: @Darknights7 You would just have to buy the 207 hardener; the 205 does not
cure clear. The 105 resin is what you need. As well, you'll need some
acetone, sandpaper, and west system rollers and / or chip brushes to apply
ksjdhg: Great job explaining this, and you do great work. Do you use a drum sander
for wood prep, and if so which ones do you like? Cheers
theoutmoreproject: i know people put carbon fiber over fg but can you put fg over cf.cheers
ksjdhg: Cool - have you tried epoxy over stain? I've always been afraid to try it,
for fear of lack of adhesion or reaction between the two in the case of oil
BoatworksToday: If done correctly the brightwork IS completely sealed (top and sides with
epoxy and varnish and the bottom sealed with bedding compound). The small
amount that the wood does expand and contract, the epoxy and topcoats move
with it. Exterior brightwork typically does not have joinery with opposing
grain patterns. If it does it is separated by a caulk seam to allow
movement. As long as the grains run directionally as with lap joints, scarf
joints, etc everything moves together w/ no issues
BoatworksToday: @ihsan2011 Hey, thanks! If the 'image' is going to be exposed to sunlight,
then it needs to have some other type of coating on top of the epoxy (with
UV absorbers) to prevent dis-colorization (yellowing). If it is something
that is going to be kept indoors (out of sunlight) then just using the
epoxy itself will give a clear, non-yellowing appearance. The background
colors should come through very clear with little / no change over time :-)
Robert Stafford: Love the video. Very instructive. Can I use Cetol Marine finish over the
epoxy for similar results to your's?
salbal777: Thank you for advice it works fine.
Darknights7: Hmmm ive finally found out that i can epoxy resin my longboards...
Question, isnt there bubbles popping up when mixing the two together? And
why 2 coats of epoxy resin? thanks.
BoatworksToday: @Darknights7 I apply 2 coats for depth and durability. 1 coat gives a nice
finish, but two make it look like a mirror. A topcoat w/ UV blockers is
needed for protection from the sun (varnish, etc); I wouldn't leave it
bare. As long as the surface isn't hot when applying the epoxy, no bubbles.
It flows out beautifully! Roll and tip with a brush, or just brush it on
like I did in the video. 1 coat at a time, and wait until it's tacked over
before applying another. Use ONLY clear epoxy WS207
BoatworksToday: @Darknights7 Good luck! Happy to help!
BoatworksToday: The first coat will look a little rough, but the 2nd coat of epoxy will
flow out like a sheet of glass :-) If it's not curing there are likely 1 of
2 things going on. Mixing ratio: the West System 207 hardener is mixed with
the resin 3:1 (3 parts resin to 1 part 207. Also temperature. I believe the
minimum temp for this hardener is around 65F.. Hope this helps!
azoresmarine: Great job thank you. You say do not use acetone after final wipe down of
the epoxy, so how do you clean the surface after sanding each varnish coat.
netteski P.: does it need to use a sanding sealer before applying the varnish?
dreammaker: @boatworkstoday Thank you very much. That 's what I wanted to know.
legend343: Just found your channel... it's great thanks..
BoatworksToday: Thanks for the kind words! If you're using epoxy and glass on the pontoons
the bottom paint won't really add anymore water-proofing protection. The
main purpose of bottom paint is to help prevent things from growing and
sticking to the hull. The level of fouling in the water you'll be using the
boat will determine the best kind of paint to use. A good starting point
would be to look around the marina's to see what others are using and see
how well it works. Hope this helps!
Guitarman3348: would you sugest multible coats at one time to speed things up or not and
valeriemd2b: @boatworkstoday Cool. Thanks I'll go ahead and try that. Keep up the good
Patricia Johnson: How does one charge for services like this? I'd like to give it a whirl
here in Virginia...It's absolutely stunning ;D
K Rayne: Have you tried this on Ipe?
kelly grogan: Great Job!! I will use this method on my boat. My question is the teak that
is outside the boat is weathered and faded. Inside the cabin still has a
nice deep color to it. I am striving to have it all match. Should I do a
teak stain on the outside pieces prior to this process? There has been some
teak "restorer" product applied inside, any special prep work other than a
good 220 sanding?? Thanks again!