Chuck Jenkins: thank you for this video. It is a great help. I'm hoping you can help some
more. I have readjusted my valves on a 16.5 B&S, twice now, a few days
apart. On both occasions I seem to get it to work fine but then after
starting the engine a few times it seems to slip out of adjustment. I just
readjusted per your advice and tested it with the plug in but wire off and
still with the valve cover off. It spun like a top. I was so happy. After I
put it all back together I hit starter and it fired. Excited I shut it down
and then tried it again. This time it stumbled on the compression, but then
kicked over and fired up. great. worried about the stumble I tried it
again. NO GO. it stuck just like before adjustment. Any ideas?
mauricemojo234: thanks mate
OtisT Walrus: Thanks man..... best instructional video on Briggs & Stratton valves....
the push rods came out before I started watching your video.... great what
you did. Great instructions... question from a fan.. Which push rod is
on the top (intake) the steel or the (maybe aluminum) light one? Also
mention that you adjust or check clearance on both intake and exhaust. But
really great vidieo... watched it twice and will check out your other
Balsey Dean De Witt, Jr.: He guesses on "Top Dead Center" or TDC. You should try to be as exact as
you can here, this is timing. Take Spark Plug out and stick a pencil in
the piston chamber. Then spin the flywheel until you get the piston TDC,
making sure it is the stroke that just opened up the intake valve and shut
it, then you have TDC! Great instructional video though!
Miichael F: Are you on something?
Phillip Lee: Great video and thanks. I have a Briggs and stratt 19.5 intek. Starts fine
on initial contact but after motor warms up I don't have the option of
shutting her off because she won't refire until completely cooled down. Any
Nathan Weller: You are the man! I've been having the same issues and you hit the nail on
the head. Thank you!!!
Jimmy Favereau: thanks! really appreciate it :D
chris123456789799: i have a trot built lawn tractor with a 17 hp ohv briggs. when i go to
start it it will try to fire the opposite way of the engine is turning. It
also will backfire sometimes when i go to start it after it gets hot. Could
this be the problem or could the problem be something else like a shierd
Leon Rowell: I was so ready just to buy another mower and you just answered the
questions that I had. Thanks for the great Video
mira horejsek: fajn vysvětlený...
Luckydog -: Great video! Your presentation style and content answers a lot of questions
for someone like me, just now trying to figure out the OHV thing. Anyway, I
have a 6.5 Briggs mower that I just picked up, and that I want to rehab. It
does not run, but it does turn, even if slowly. I am okay with pulling it
apart, lubing it, and putting it back together, I think that I need to do
that. First though, the amount of pressure that it takes to pull the cord,
or manually turn the blade, is more than is normal for other 6.5s that I
have used. I have removed the spark plug, as you suggest, and that did not
change the condition. Is there any other area of the engine, that I can
focus on, that may loosen up the motor a bit? Thanks, and thanks for your
Kevin Hughes: I have a 17.5 Briggs that does this ALL the time. The valves go out of
adjustment and the engine will turn over and stop like its frozen up. Ive
never had any other engine do this except for this one.
Brett Helmkamp: Great video. Tomorrow I am replacing push rods on a briggs and wanted to
double check procedure for adjusting valves. Valve lash moved and threw
the rod and bent the crap out of it.
Daniel O: Dig this video, man. It's exactly what my riding mower is doing (12.5HP
IC). Going to try your method. Thanks for posting and explaining what
you're doing. Very helpful.
Harry Pappas: what the valve lash on a 140 cc series e b&s engine
Aaron Sandland: Hey, one of my pins behind the rockers is bent and has come out. Are these
Sean Twiggs: I have adjusted my valves to the suggested manufacturer settings and still
hard starts. Changed oil take sure and cleaned the carb. Any ideas
robert lyle Dressler: 10 minutes of my life wasted--- I just needed the guage setting--- skip to
7 minutes to avoid life waste
incrdblebailey23: I cannot seem to find the specs for my particular motor. 2010 briggs 20hp
ohv. Local shop said .005 not working. Am I looking at a bigger issue?
Robert Perrigo: I have been working on small engines for 40 years and the way to set the
valves and it has never failed me, is if one valve is open all the way,
then set the other valve, then rotate the engine to open the valve you just
set until it is fully open and set the other valve clearance. Try it one
time and you will do them all like this, It save a lot of time and guess
jludtxs: Thanks, it was the coil. I'm still starting with the solenois. I tested the
ignition key switch and thats ok so it has to be the brake safety
Bob Ward: Good video. I just adjusted mine that had the same problem basically. It
is like it is brand new again, starts right up. Thanks
T.T. M.: I had this same problem last year. 17.5hp. I did what you did in the video
and it worked. No problems all winter snow plowing and cut my lawn about
five times this year. Now this year same problem. I adjusted the valves
the same way. Still barely turns over. Batt. is fine, valves adjusted to
.003, have spark, gas, etc. :-(
vinnie vinnie: Thanks dude thought it was like that but now I know
Charles Grant: Ooooookay.....The Best way to get the right gap is to turn the adjustment
screw with your fingers with the gauge in place until you feel it
touch....lock it down ....... it's set!
mowerman32000: I noticed the oil is black, not good briggs uses a pressed powder matel to
make the cam gear and lobes on the cam, and dirty oil acts like sand paper
and grinds down the lobes causeing it to mess the timing up on the valves
this will make the pushrods after adjusting them to either move later or
not at all.
jludtxs: I have a 16hp twin2 briggs and stratton. the starter is good. the motor
spins well. It sounds like the end when at first yours didn't start. You
gave it gas it look like but It turns over smooth but not catching. The
carb is rebuilt new solenoid. can there be any other electrical problems or
if it turns and not catching is it most likely the valve? . It was hard to
turn over before I took off the starter and replaced the gear and before I
put the starter back on, I manually turned the top of the engine till it
moved smooth. Once the starter went back on it spins great but still no
wcjcnc: The last few OHV engines I've done still wouldn't crank when I adjusted the
valves to the proper specs. If I adjust them down to just right at zero
lash they crank and run great. If I adjust them to just .004/.006 they
still have too much compression and won't crank. Why is that?
mowerman32000: Briggs ohv engines have a decompression valve on the intake side this
allows it to drop a small precent of the compression by opening the intake
valve sooner on the compression stroke so the starter can spin the flywheel
up to speed.
mowerman32000: the intake valve on single cylinders is located on the bottom and use the
alumin rod the exhaust uses a steel rod
mowerman32000: Bent push rods are a good sign of very poor maintance on the owner, this
means that at one point the valve starts to hang up and isn't as free as it
should be. this could cause bigger problems such as the valve could get
stuck in the compressed position and hit the top of the piston or could
cause seize to the valve guide and push it out of the way resulting in
pushrod failure also. look around the area of the valve spring and check
for any discolored like it got hot this means it may have bigger problems.
mowerman32000: the ohv briggs intake valves are on the bottom and the exhaust is on top of
smokeing after you worked on the head could be valve cover gasket leaking
which is common if you don't replace the valve cover gasket and leaks on to
the muffler, or if it is coming out of the muffler then it could be leaking
from valve guides blown head gasket or leaking past the rings which means a
rebuild in the future. I/C means it is industrial and commercial built with
a cast iron sleeve in the cylinder.
mowerman32000: remember because when the engine is not running the compression release
valve is in the open position, you will have to drop the pistion 1/4" past
top dead center or adjusting the intake will be off as much as 0.005
thousands off from where they need to be.
Kavalon Gilliam: Wow - -- from your ea friend
mowerman32000: sounded like you have a valve problem fuel spray out of carb when you shut
it done is a sign of valve isues and may have a blown head gasket on the
emmams5: What gaps did you set the tappets at (in mm if possible)?
Bubba Gump: Awesome video. I have save my customers alot of money by doing this simple
adjustment when it is needed
Tom Ferguson: This is a followup to prev comments. I used a dowel to find TDC and a
piecet about 1 inch long broke off in the engine. I needed to adPlease help.
Barry Hargett: Thank You. This Video helped out a whole lot.
ibdalovely1: i would adjust the valves if its a ohv and check the starter it might be
dead you can jump the starter to see if it is it could also be the solenoid
i can post up a vid if you need of how to jump the starter if you need it
ecodirtrider: I want to tell you thanks. I would not have found my broken intake pushrod
ibdalovely1: if you made it to tight it could have done one of a couple things could
have bent the push rod just pull the push rod out and lay it on something
flat if its not bent theirs other problems
ibdalovely1: yes when you adjust them correct with the plug out by hand turn over the
engine and look at the exhaust valve it should move out slightly like 1-2
mm and back in then out to fully open the valve the lobe can wear down and
not open fully causing it to not allow it to crank fast enough or not at
all causing the no start or hard start
ibdalovely1: ok so thats good but probbaly bad at the same time if for some random
reason the cam lobe has wore off it usually takes a lot to do that though
there could be a giant chunk of carbon holding the valve wide open or it
could have dropped the valve the spring should be attached the the valve if
its not thats a whole other issue i would do a compression check if its way
down or not at all i would pull the head the gaskets are around $15-20
worst case you might need some internal engine parts
rich rohan: Thanks for your time.
ibdalovely1: no problem
ibdalovely1: thanks ooh you get it fixed
How to adjust valves on a ohv briggs and stratton engine4.6
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