jim davidson: The upper valve is EX and lower is INTAKE.
jim davidson: You said the intake was the top valve. Then you used a 0.004" feeler to adjust the LOWER valve. Intake is 0.004" and EX is 0.006". Which valve is which?
MrBenzo1985: After I'm done with intake adjustment. I make the exhaust adjustment. I Don't Touch The flywheel correct?
Sean Fitzgerald Jr: thanks a lot! been searching for days an this is the only one that helps
Kevin Bolin: Fellow youtubes the intake on most these single cylinder intec engines 28 or 31 cubic inch are typic 3 thousand to 5 thousands of a inch for intake and 5 thousand to 7 thousands on exaust there is a special val lash for some 31 cubic inch engines with a Q in there model number [reamber the alum push rod is used on the intake and metal for exaust ] also check your rocker arm studs they can loosen over time causing the valves to go out of adjustment more frequently . Briggs recommends you set your valves every season but this is rarely done in pro shops[rocker arm studs tork at 100 inch pounds and valve covers as well as rocker arm jam nuts tork at 65 inch pounds] if your rocker arm studs are loose use 242 Loctite and apply to the treads that are on the stud to head surface .
ben beek: the lower valve is the intake with aluminum push rod. my 15.5 hp has the intake on the bottom and the exhaust on top. please check this and let me know. Thanks Ben
Russell Booth: This will come in Handy for when it comes time to replace the cylinder head on my sisters friends (Smith) Intek lawnmower as she thought she hit a rock when mowing the lawn which means she thought that the key for the magneto pulley sheared off as the backfiring through the carby & exhaust manifold is a symptom of that. I put my finger over the spark plug hole while cranking the engine where I felt absolutely no resistance against my finger, I removed the valve rocker cover only to find out that the valve collet for the exhaust valve had sheared off & the valve had dropped down into the cylinder. When I removed the cylinder head , to my surprise the valve had been pushed through the exhaust port in the cylinder head without any damage to the bottom end of the motor which means the Aluminium cylinder head must have become very hot almost to the point of melting (I have heard of someone in Australia who melted a cylinder head on a Nissan RB30ET engine which was fitted into a Holden VL Commodore,in the 1980's Nissan signed a contract with General Motors Holden to say that legally the turbocharged engine could only be factory fitted into a Holden so the Australian built Nissan R31 Skyline was never fitted with that engine). Yeah , I don't know , she traded in her old lawn mower for the Intek one & paid $1000 AUD for that one when they (the lawnmower shop) could've chased up a brand new Briggs & Stratton engine for the same price & bolted it onto the old one she had which was still good - what was wrong with the old one? My guess is the conrod snapped as she noticed a clunking sound,I thought they were going to rebuild it at the shop,that would've been the other option,I think they fail because I think she probably never changes the oil in it,I have heard of people saying Briggs & Stratton engines are a heap of crap only to find most of them never get an oil change done on them over here. Yeah & I am a Jones! Why is it that I get that a Smith is all like that over here in Australia & they're getting a bad wrap with all of that stuff? (i.e. never looking after things & getting ripped off by dodgy people left ,right & centre !!)
cznightrider: TY, i was completely lost and thru trial and error and some google'n.......i needed to try and learn how to adjust my valves on a Briggs and Strat 21hp zero turn. My mower was doing EXACTLY what u said and not turning over but it was working with the plug out. Great video and TY for saving me money! My Intake was 3-5 and out was 5-7....adjusted and BOOM fired off and ran on the first crank!!!!!!
Damon Williams: need the adjustments value for 12.5 hp it a yard machine thank you
Roel Casares: thanks a lot for the video...I fixed mine without a problem. ..it started right away...
Jasonx2011x: Thanks for the good input man appreciate it
mike gould: Why wouldnt you tell the the GAP??? I watched to find out the gap and instead you say "This is the proper gap" and dont tell us what it is?
Maienduo Nava: I see other videos people advice to have both valves at top death center to do that procedure, but you only put exhaust valve on top death center and adjust the valve. Please advise if my observation is correct
Vince A: When trying to adjust my valve , my exhaust (not intake as in previous post) valve compresses so little you are barely able to view it with the naked eye. could this be a problem or should it move more?
Vince A: When trying to adjust my valve , my intake valve compresses so little you are barely able to view it with the naked eye. could this be a problem or should it move more?
Billy Biddle: i have adjusted valves over an over like you show here and it still will not run i have a ohv briggs and stratton engine 17.5 ,, i called on it an i was told to set bottom on 5 to 7 top 3 to 5 ,, done this an tryed setting same as you set this one , what am i doing wrong ?
Daniel Bennett: It looks like you're missing some pieces there. At least one that I could see. The valve cap (691843).
Daniel Perkins: have a 140cc b&s push mower drained fuel and replaced replaced and properly gapped plug to .30". adjusted coil gap to .010". found valves very loose inspected push rods reinstalled rockers and adjusted to .005" don't know if specks are correct or not any help would be appreciated thanks.
Richard Bowen: Thanks Bro just saved Me some $$$$ Where do I find the settings for the B/S 17 Hp
How to adjust valves on a ohv briggs and stratton engine5
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