How To Diagnose Toyota Timing Chain Rattle Or Knock Troubleshoot 22R 22RE 22RET




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Catman Outdoors: I have a 91 yota with the 22re and last spring it started a slight rattling sound in the motor on higher throttle when not under load. It increased throughout the year and is now pretty frequent. At low idle and when punching the gas it doesn't rattle, but at higher idle (cold start) and decelerating or downshifting, it rattles. Could this be the same problem as in your video? I gave 1800 for the truck and it has over 318k miles, 267k when I bought it. is it worth the cost in labor to get that fixed? I suppose I should look for someone who specializes in toyotas to take a look at it. Would like to get some more miles out of it, I know it's a good motor.

rjbourassa: Hi WP. I think I'm hearing what is described in your video, but I've got a 2004 Tacoma with the 2RZ-FE 2.4L motor in it, not the 22R(*). Before I go pulling things apart to look at it, would you know if the 2RZ-FE motor is susceptible to the same timing chain guide problems you describe on the 22R in your video? Engine sounds/runs great (88K miles) other than that "rattle" when I take my foot off the gas the and RPMs drop back down. Thanks in advance for any help! rjb

John F: So you show the seller a problem, that almost every 22re Toyota truck with over 100k miles is guaranteed to have, and you use that as an excuse to lowball the seller and "get the price knocked down a bunch". Do you also beat up the seller on a non functioning 20+ year old a/c system and inform him that it is a $500+ repair at a shop? or that the seat belts are worn, no longer retract and they cost over $100 a piece? I have to give you credit for this video that helped people but you sure do have some unsavory negotiating techniques. You should work as a used car salesman.

sprinter2burnbaby: thanks for the upload. helped me alot

Ben Richer: We are trying to diagnose my uncles 22re. I did a tune up and valve adjustment, and it quieted down, but under load, we hear a clack clack clack. i suspect its the tensioner/guides.

Rachael Gustafson: Well made video, thanks for the helpful tips. I appreciate your clear speaking and to the point information. My 1984 22R does not have this marble in a box sounds but the valve cover does leak like a siv. Will check the tensioner once the cover is off.

v Lehr: THIS IS A REAL HELP TO ME, I PURCHASED A 1988 TOYOTA PICKUP SO I WILL PUT IN A STEEL GUID AND DOUBLEROLLER CHAIN.ON IT.GOD BLESS FOR INFO -VIC,,

bruce bacon: Thank you for this informative sequence, good dialogue, clear and easy to follow-super!

Monte Overton: Thanks Pete. This video was really helpful. 

David Carbon: you're a talented teacher

k1ghz960: Thanks,WP, it does look like it would be better to remove all the front stuff and replace the timing gears and chain, I'll take a good look when I get the valve cover off. It's a 95 Truck w/ 275k miles, and I'd like to drive it another 100k, maybe an engine swap would be better. It does run good, would you know of a preferred engine dealer just in case. Thanks much again.

Brandon Hamilton: Very thorough and informative videos Pete. I appreciate them.

Morgan M: Awesome and very helpful/informative video. I have a '87 and adjusted the valves as well but there is still a clacking of course. If I take of the valve cover must I replace the gasket each time? Thanks again for the good video.

Ironmike965: Awesome info. Pete ! I'm about to embark on replacing my '92 Toyota pickup timing set, and you answered most of the questions I had about it. Thanks for the high def. and well lit pictures as well. They are a great help ! Mike

k1ghz960: Is it true that you can change the driver's side chain-guide without removing anything but the valve cover? I've heard that it's possible. Thanks much.

Chad Paul: Great video. My 94 recently started making a loud pinging noise under load and my friend thought it may be the timing chain. But wouldn't it make the sound always or would it do it just under load? Also the noise started right after turning on the heater, not sure if that was a coincidence. It does have 250,000 miles on it.

Raymond Deza: Never mind the dislikers This is a good post. Thanks a lot! -rad4runner@yotatech

Chris Pease: i am rebuilding a 1994 22re 4x4 and everything is done I'm just at the last part of the engine. originally was sitting for 10 ten years and so I'm fixing it for a friend and he said it needed new gas tank put in. so once new tank was in we started it and it blew white smoke so we took it apart to change head gasket but it turned out to be multiple issues. long story short its all done except for timing. we put new guides in along with both timing gears. with the haynes book it says to read the tag on inside of the hood to find the correct degree to set the cylinders at I'm pretty sure. but the tag isn't there because its an aftermarket hood with no tags and so it won't start but we slowly advance the timing but i was told that if u advance it too much it can potentially hurt the engine without knowing the right degree mark. but my friend said if it's an interference engine then u don't have to worry about it but i read some people say it is and it isn't. what degree is the timing supposed to be set at. then after that its a matter of adjusting the distributor. please help!!!

Hurricane Floyd: $40 in 2014 with parts from eBay counting a revised front oil seal, use a 7mm thick seal instead of a sleeve or new pulley, BECK/ARNLEY 052-2144, it lets the new seal lip run 4mm farther back than the worn groove. BTW, the chains can go 200k without a problem, it is random. The only bad one I ever had made a much worse sound than loose valves, drove 10,000 miles and still managed to save the timing cover when I did change it.

abcfisher1: When replacing the timing cover only, where exactly is the hidden bolt?

K4rt80y: Enginebldr is top notch. The timing kit is totally worth it.

Greg Simms: thank very helpful

shrewgy: Great job.

Heather Stacy: Um that was very very educating i wish i seen this 3 days ago. Well at least now i know.... bringing my tools next time lol

rmnjp07: thanks man. I have a 93 pickup with the same problem but could never figure out the problem. I always thought it was the rocker arms tapping. didn't know about the timing chain guide was made of plastic. lol n tnx for that website. now I can purchase one of thows metal ones.

Edris Talbert: Excellent bought a 1994 last night and I was wondering what that clicking noise was and now I know. 

ak3supra: Thank you for the tutorial, Helped me save time and a terrible experience at a shop. Kudos to you. Your VIdeo helped with my built not bought 91 Supra 7 M-GTE. After a Drift session DS Timing belt guide broke, I thought it was a rocker arm lifter or v-stem. Could in the future when able to make a turbo video? It would bring in a legion of new viewers. Oh yeah why do some mechanics act like customer service is not in the book? Thanks once more AK3SUPRA

playstation2bigs: that's why i love timing belt on toyota

WheeliePete: Whoops, should read "let coolant into the oil"...

thenomadrhodes: @WheeliePete Wow, all of those sound really pricey to fix.. Thank you WheeliePete, I'll jump on that this weekend.

thenomadrhodes: @WheeliePete Thanks for the info Pete and yes, its the coming from the timing guild.Looks like I have some work ahead of me :(

WheeliePete: I should also add, going back to the first reply, that having a timing cover that has a higher deck height than the block may cause your head gasket to fail prematurely because the head isn't cranking down flat if the timing cover is taller than the surface of the block. Again, if you are having an engine block surfaced make sure the timing cover is bolted to it so the block and timing cover are EXACTLY the same height.

Landybandy1: Ha ha "it can be done with the vehicle in the truck". This cracked me up when I heard him say this.

WheeliePete: Make sure you take the hidden bolt out from under the distributor drive gear (it's covered by an oil puddle and bolts the top edge of the timing cover to the head. From there you just have to be sure not to fawk up the head gasket when you remove the timing cover. The timing cover has some dowels in it too so you can't force it down, you have to pull it straight off and then getting it back on is a trick. Don't try to be a hero, just drop the oil pan, you probably need to clean it out anyway.

WheeliePete: s/b *Lower the cam gear out of the chain" (Don't drop the chain down into the timing cover...)

WheeliePete: I don't have a more detailed video...yet. I'm in the process of buying a 1,750 square foot shop right now that will allow me to shoot some better videos in the near future. If you have a 1981 truck with the original 1981 engine you don't have anything to worry about because you should have a double row timing chain and metal guides from the factory. Those systems are nearly bullet-proof. They changed to the single row chain and plastic in 83~ish to increase dealer maintenance revenue (my theory)

WheeliePete: When you take off the timing cover, you need to check and make sure the chain didn't rub a hole through that driver's side of the timing cover. There is a water jacket right in that spot and if the guide has completely broken off and the chain is slapping the side of the timing cover it can wear a hole through the cover and let oil into the coolant. If your billowing clouds of white smoke though, that mean's coolant is getting into the combustion chamber and you've got a blown head gasket.

Dustin Stopo: Wheelie, you rock dude. Thanks so much for the info big help! I check with you before my Hayes

Andrew Lujan: what exactly would you replace? chain guides? oil pump and water pump? i think my engine has been rebuilt so ill use the old timing cover and buy new hardware.

WheeliePete: Both the crankshaft gear and the cam gear have marks on them that correspond colored links on the timing chain. You put the single bright link on the corresponding mark on the crankshaft gear and put the mark on the camshaft gear between the two bright links of the chain. It can be done if there are not marked links on the chain, but it requires more though to get it right.

WheeliePete: Yeah, that's the reason you'll hear seller's saying "It just needs a valve adjustment"...B.S. the timing guide is probably broken. Always pull the valve cover and shine a flashlight in there.

WheeliePete: If your valve adjustment keep creeping around it's because your rocker arm studs that you adjust the valve clearance with are old and are stretching when you adjust them. This really isn't that common, but it can happen. You'd have to buy new adjusting studs and locknuts. Get a set of go-no-go feeler gauges too, they work awesome. (The tip of the gauge is .006 and the next section is .008 which means if it slips in, but stops at the step, you have .007, I love those things for valve adj.)

jgr144: :( my 83 celica makes that sound at around 2000 rpm

WheeliePete: @NightHowl92 I can get it done in a Saturday (all day) by myself start to finish. Depends on how much time you spend cleaning stuff up and how careful you are. I'm a neat freak, and I will not tolerate oil leaks so I spend a lot of time cleaning old gasket material off and being meticulous. You also need to know what you are doing with Toyota stuff because you have that ENTIRE front of the engine torn apart. There's a lot of subtle knowledge that goes into that job.

Dude13450: My friend gave me his 84 Toyota pickup. I haven't looked in ther, because there hasn't been any rattling yet. If/when the rattling starts because of a broken plastic chain guide, could I use the metal ones from an older Toyota with a 22R? Or would I have to buy the aftermarket set?

jgr144: do u have to remove the oil pan cause in the celica it looks like u have to lift the engine just to get it off

guy reefer: i replaced my own timing chain and sprokets etc with the engine in the vehicle... it's not that hard at all.. those 22r's are so easy to work on.... i did remove the head though,,,, i recomend removing the head just so all the gaskets and sealant set in nicely.... if you remove the head make sure you REsurface it,,, other wise the head gasket will leak. all alluminum heads warp up as you unbolt them from the block

Joel Thomas: The job was a big success. Thanks for being so specific and detailed, and for showing me to engnbldr.com, I got to go inside the place personally which was a very rewarding and fun experience. The engine runs way better, and gone is that tinfoil in the fanblades sound... it can vary from 22r to 22r, I found a video of someone's that sounded just like mine on here. When I saw your video, I knew I had to open the cover, once I did, i knew I had to get the kit and use it.

WheeliePete: You should be able to horse it onto the cam, it may take two people. CAREFULLY pry the cam gear and chain up onto the cam. You may need to roll the crank a little in either direction to get some wiggle room in the chain. I've had some tight ones before, an extra set of hands will probably help. You can also roll the cam around with a wrench on the flats of the camshaft trying to help line things up.

WheeliePete: You hear that come out of a seller's mouth you might as well walk away because they probably have something to hide. You buy one of these with bad/broken guides you just bought an expensive grenade with a loose pin.
Rating:
How to diagnose Toyota Timing Chain Rattle or Knock troubleshoot 22R 22RE 22RET 5 out of 5

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How to diagnose Toyota Timing Chain Rattle or Knock troubleshoot 22R 22RE 22RET