Catman Outdoors: I have a 91 yota with the 22re and last spring it started a slight rattling
sound in the motor on higher throttle when not under load. It increased
throughout the year and is now pretty frequent. At low idle and when
punching the gas it doesn't rattle, but at higher idle (cold start) and
decelerating or downshifting, it rattles. Could this be the same problem as
in your video? I gave 1800 for the truck and it has over 318k miles, 267k
when I bought it. is it worth the cost in labor to get that fixed? I
suppose I should look for someone who specializes in toyotas to take a look
at it. Would like to get some more miles out of it, I know it's a good
rjbourassa: Hi WP. I think I'm hearing what is described in your video, but I've got a
2004 Tacoma with the 2RZ-FE 2.4L motor in it, not the 22R(*). Before I go
pulling things apart to look at it, would you know if the 2RZ-FE motor is
susceptible to the same timing chain guide problems you describe on the 22R
in your video? Engine sounds/runs great (88K miles) other than that
"rattle" when I take my foot off the gas the and RPMs drop back down.
Thanks in advance for any help! rjb
John F: So you show the seller a problem, that almost every 22re Toyota truck with
over 100k miles is guaranteed to have, and you use that as an excuse to
lowball the seller and "get the price knocked down a bunch". Do you also
beat up the seller on a non functioning 20+ year old a/c system and inform
him that it is a $500+ repair at a shop? or that the seat belts are worn,
no longer retract and they cost over $100 a piece? I have to give you
credit for this video that helped people but you sure do have some unsavory
negotiating techniques. You should work as a used car salesman.
sprinter2burnbaby: thanks for the upload. helped me alot
Ben Richer: We are trying to diagnose my uncles 22re. I did a tune up and valve
adjustment, and it quieted down, but under load, we hear a clack clack
clack. i suspect its the tensioner/guides.
Rachael Gustafson: Well made video, thanks for the helpful tips. I appreciate your clear
speaking and to the point information. My 1984 22R does not have this
marble in a box sounds but the valve cover does leak like a siv. Will check
the tensioner once the cover is off.
v Lehr: THIS IS A REAL HELP TO ME, I PURCHASED A 1988 TOYOTA PICKUP SO I WILL PUT
IN A STEEL GUID AND DOUBLEROLLER CHAIN.ON IT.GOD BLESS FOR INFO -VIC,,
bruce bacon: Thank you for this informative sequence, good dialogue, clear and easy to
Monte Overton: Thanks Pete. This video was really helpful.
David Carbon: you're a talented teacher
k1ghz960: Thanks,WP, it does look like it would be better to remove all the front
stuff and replace the timing gears and chain, I'll take a good look when I
get the valve cover off. It's a 95 Truck w/ 275k miles, and I'd like to
drive it another 100k, maybe an engine swap would be better. It does run
good, would you know of a preferred engine dealer just in case. Thanks much
Brandon Hamilton: Very thorough and informative videos Pete. I appreciate them.
Morgan M: Awesome and very helpful/informative video. I have a '87 and adjusted the
valves as well but there is still a clacking of course. If I take of the
valve cover must I replace the gasket each time? Thanks again for the good
Ironmike965: Awesome info. Pete ! I'm about to embark on replacing my '92 Toyota pickup
timing set, and you answered most of the questions I had about it. Thanks
for the high def. and well lit pictures as well. They are a great help
k1ghz960: Is it true that you can change the driver's side chain-guide without
removing anything but the valve cover? I've heard that it's possible.
Chad Paul: Great video. My 94 recently started making a loud pinging noise under load
and my friend thought it may be the timing chain. But wouldn't it make the
sound always or would it do it just under load? Also the noise started
right after turning on the heater, not sure if that was a coincidence. It
does have 250,000 miles on it.
Raymond Deza: Never mind the dislikers This is a good post. Thanks a lot!
Chris Pease: i am rebuilding a 1994 22re 4x4 and everything is done I'm just at the last
part of the engine. originally was sitting for 10 ten years and so I'm
fixing it for a friend and he said it needed new gas tank put in. so once
new tank was in we started it and it blew white smoke so we took it apart
to change head gasket but it turned out to be multiple issues. long story
short its all done except for timing. we put new guides in along with both
timing gears. with the haynes book it says to read the tag on inside of the
hood to find the correct degree to set the cylinders at I'm pretty sure.
but the tag isn't there because its an aftermarket hood with no tags and so
it won't start but we slowly advance the timing but i was told that if u
advance it too much it can potentially hurt the engine without knowing the
right degree mark. but my friend said if it's an interference engine then u
don't have to worry about it but i read some people say it is and it isn't.
what degree is the timing supposed to be set at. then after that its a
matter of adjusting the distributor. please help!!!
Hurricane Floyd: $40 in 2014 with parts from eBay counting a revised front oil seal, use a
7mm thick seal instead of a sleeve or new pulley, BECK/ARNLEY 052-2144, it
lets the new seal lip run 4mm farther back than the worn groove.
BTW, the chains can go 200k without a problem, it is random.
The only bad one I ever had made a much worse sound than loose valves,
drove 10,000 miles and still managed to save the timing cover when I did
abcfisher1: When replacing the timing cover only, where exactly is the hidden bolt?
K4rt80y: Enginebldr is top notch. The timing kit is totally worth it.
Greg Simms: thank very helpful
shrewgy: Great job.
Heather Stacy: Um that was very very educating i wish i seen this 3 days ago. Well at
least now i know.... bringing my tools next time lol
rmnjp07: thanks man. I have a 93 pickup with the same problem but could never figure
out the problem. I always thought it was the rocker arms tapping. didn't
know about the timing chain guide was made of plastic. lol n tnx for that
website. now I can purchase one of thows metal ones.
Edris Talbert: Excellent bought a 1994 last night and I was wondering what that clicking
noise was and now I know.
ak3supra: Thank you for the tutorial, Helped me save time and a terrible experience
at a shop. Kudos to you. Your VIdeo helped with my built not bought 91
Supra 7 M-GTE. After a Drift session DS Timing belt guide broke, I thought
it was a rocker arm lifter or v-stem. Could in the future when able to make
a turbo video? It would bring in a legion of new viewers. Oh yeah why do
some mechanics act like customer service is not in the book? Thanks once
playstation2bigs: that's why i love timing belt on toyota
WheeliePete: Whoops, should read "let coolant into the oil"...
thenomadrhodes: @WheeliePete Wow, all of those sound really pricey to fix.. Thank you
WheeliePete, I'll jump on that this weekend.
thenomadrhodes: @WheeliePete Thanks for the info Pete and yes, its the coming from the
timing guild.Looks like I have some work ahead of me :(
WheeliePete: I should also add, going back to the first reply, that having a timing
cover that has a higher deck height than the block may cause your head
gasket to fail prematurely because the head isn't cranking down flat if the
timing cover is taller than the surface of the block. Again, if you are
having an engine block surfaced make sure the timing cover is bolted to it
so the block and timing cover are EXACTLY the same height.
Landybandy1: Ha ha "it can be done with the vehicle in the truck". This cracked me up
when I heard him say this.
WheeliePete: Make sure you take the hidden bolt out from under the distributor drive
gear (it's covered by an oil puddle and bolts the top edge of the timing
cover to the head. From there you just have to be sure not to fawk up the
head gasket when you remove the timing cover. The timing cover has some
dowels in it too so you can't force it down, you have to pull it straight
off and then getting it back on is a trick. Don't try to be a hero, just
drop the oil pan, you probably need to clean it out anyway.
WheeliePete: s/b *Lower the cam gear out of the chain" (Don't drop the chain down into
the timing cover...)
WheeliePete: I don't have a more detailed video...yet. I'm in the process of buying a
1,750 square foot shop right now that will allow me to shoot some better
videos in the near future. If you have a 1981 truck with the original 1981
engine you don't have anything to worry about because you should have a
double row timing chain and metal guides from the factory. Those systems
are nearly bullet-proof. They changed to the single row chain and plastic
in 83~ish to increase dealer maintenance revenue (my theory)
WheeliePete: When you take off the timing cover, you need to check and make sure the
chain didn't rub a hole through that driver's side of the timing cover.
There is a water jacket right in that spot and if the guide has completely
broken off and the chain is slapping the side of the timing cover it can
wear a hole through the cover and let oil into the coolant. If your
billowing clouds of white smoke though, that mean's coolant is getting into
the combustion chamber and you've got a blown head gasket.
Dustin Stopo: Wheelie, you rock dude. Thanks so much for the info big help! I check with
you before my Hayes
Andrew Lujan: what exactly would you replace? chain guides? oil pump and water pump? i
think my engine has been rebuilt so ill use the old timing cover and buy
WheeliePete: Both the crankshaft gear and the cam gear have marks on them that
correspond colored links on the timing chain. You put the single bright
link on the corresponding mark on the crankshaft gear and put the mark on
the camshaft gear between the two bright links of the chain. It can be done
if there are not marked links on the chain, but it requires more though to
get it right.
WheeliePete: Yeah, that's the reason you'll hear seller's saying "It just needs a valve
adjustment"...B.S. the timing guide is probably broken. Always pull the
valve cover and shine a flashlight in there.
WheeliePete: If your valve adjustment keep creeping around it's because your rocker arm
studs that you adjust the valve clearance with are old and are stretching
when you adjust them. This really isn't that common, but it can happen.
You'd have to buy new adjusting studs and locknuts. Get a set of go-no-go
feeler gauges too, they work awesome. (The tip of the gauge is .006 and the
next section is .008 which means if it slips in, but stops at the step, you
have .007, I love those things for valve adj.)
jgr144: :( my 83 celica makes that sound at around 2000 rpm
WheeliePete: @NightHowl92 I can get it done in a Saturday (all day) by myself start to
finish. Depends on how much time you spend cleaning stuff up and how
careful you are. I'm a neat freak, and I will not tolerate oil leaks so I
spend a lot of time cleaning old gasket material off and being meticulous.
You also need to know what you are doing with Toyota stuff because you have
that ENTIRE front of the engine torn apart. There's a lot of subtle
knowledge that goes into that job.
Dude13450: My friend gave me his 84 Toyota pickup. I haven't looked in ther, because
there hasn't been any rattling yet. If/when the rattling starts because of
a broken plastic chain guide, could I use the metal ones from an older
Toyota with a 22R? Or would I have to buy the aftermarket set?
jgr144: do u have to remove the oil pan cause in the celica it looks like u have to
lift the engine just to get it off
guy reefer: i replaced my own timing chain and sprokets etc with the engine in the
vehicle... it's not that hard at all.. those 22r's are so easy to work
on.... i did remove the head though,,,, i recomend removing the head just
so all the gaskets and sealant set in nicely.... if you remove the head
make sure you REsurface it,,, other wise the head gasket will leak. all
alluminum heads warp up as you unbolt them from the block
Joel Thomas: The job was a big success. Thanks for being so specific and detailed, and
for showing me to engnbldr.com, I got to go inside the place personally
which was a very rewarding and fun experience. The engine runs way better,
and gone is that tinfoil in the fanblades sound... it can vary from 22r to
22r, I found a video of someone's that sounded just like mine on here. When
I saw your video, I knew I had to open the cover, once I did, i knew I had
to get the kit and use it.
WheeliePete: You should be able to horse it onto the cam, it may take two people.
CAREFULLY pry the cam gear and chain up onto the cam. You may need to roll
the crank a little in either direction to get some wiggle room in the
chain. I've had some tight ones before, an extra set of hands will probably
help. You can also roll the cam around with a wrench on the flats of the
camshaft trying to help line things up.
WheeliePete: You hear that come out of a seller's mouth you might as well walk away
because they probably have something to hide. You buy one of these with
bad/broken guides you just bought an expensive grenade with a loose pin.