How To Repair Cracked Exhaust Manifold With QuikSteel/ThermoSteel




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Zach Foxtrot: A bunch of people used it. The ones that complained probably don't have a Dremel tool, tried to use a hand held wire brush, missed some, and thus failed. Note the easy position for his fix. Right in front. I can imagine some issues at the back bolt, passenger side of a 351W, no clearance, wrong tool leads to bad prep and a fail. However, a 97 Corolla or something similar- a small 4 cylinder- I'll bet it works fine. A heat gun might even help the cure, again, if there is clearance for it.

Karl Aponte: Yo Johnny Vance great video and thx for sharing gona tackle my ford manifold with ur tips..out here in NJ we will take all the hillbilly tricks that work to save us money..expensive as crap out here..anyway thx again and hey all u got to do now is use some sea foam and ur ride will run even better...take care brotha...

Harry Webb: Nce vid. Very helpful.

machiato111: Bull craptttttt

cameryn haroldson: i watched this video about a year ago and just came across it again and thought i needed to leave u a little something, i drive a 2003 ford focus SE. the exhaust was leaking and the mechanic shop wanted $650 for a new exhaust and labor!! i watched your video and bought the can and did it like u did sure as crap the next day probably 10 hours YOU COULDN'T HEAR A THING, and its still holding. I had this $3,000 car on craigslist for $900! You literally saved me a ton! and im eternally grateful!!!

P Yang: **Does Not Work** I used the exact same methods as the video. I used the same product because I couldn't find anything else. I really wanted to use furnace cement but my local hardware store no longer carry any wood furnace products anymore. I happen to have the same car and same crack location. My first attempt I used 1/3 of the jar and waited 3 days before starting the car and letting it idle to warm up. When the engine warmed up the exhaust fumes pushed outwards on the quicksteel and created a bubble underneath it. Until it popped and started leaking again. I was as if the quicksteel never fully hardened. While warm, I used the round back end of a screw driver to push the quicksteel down back onto the crack. The heat seems to cure it better and fully hardened. It also stopped leaking smoke from the area. It seemed to finally work. The next day I tested it again and it still held up. Upon testing it with a screw driver, the dried quicksteel hardened to the same consistency as chalk. Sure it's holding now, but it will easily crack and break off with the normal vibrations. I was able to scratch off most of the quicksteel easily with a screw driver. So I cleaned the area up again and and used the rest of the 2/3 of the jar. This time heating up the headers first by idling the engine. I used latex gloves and applied the quicksteel by hand and pushed it down onto the crack. Using my fingers to dab, smear, and roll the quicksteel on the crack. With the heat from the headers it dried faster in place as I kept layering on more quicksteel. Being careful not to keep my hands on there too long, so I don't get burned. It seems to stick better than just pouring it on cold and spreading it over the crack like in the video. This time I waited a day and tested it again under idle. The exact same thing happened. It bubbled and leaked again. It seems to not want to dried completely even after letting it dry longer that in the directions. And once dried it's not steel hardened, but chalking and crumbles. I wish people would post results after time or the time there cheap easy fixes fail... I'm gonna try this again with wood burning furnace cement.

Adam Lemus: How long does it regularly take to cure? It can't be 24 hours...

Alouicious Jackson: The problem with this approach is that it will not actually repair the metal, only patch it. Eventually the crack will grow and ruin your patch job.

Liph Rellim: With my '96 Camry, I went to change the Catalytic Converter because the weld at the pipe failed after driving over the curb cut with about 3/4 yards of compost in the trunk. One of the three studs would not free up from the manifold and sheared below the manifold flange. I did not want to (or was easily able to) extract the stud so I used a clamp to hold that corner. It worked until I took it for inspection and my mechanic removed the clamp without telling me. The gasket blew out and I started throwing codes from the computer (not to mention the 3-5 less mpg, it only got 20-26 when correct). The car, being 17 yrs old, is not one I believe worth much. I used this stuff to make a gasket. It worked for a couple of years but now is starting to fail again but am not throwing codes. Today I am reapplying Quick Steel to the missing gasket area. I know I should have the stud removed and replace the gasket but that is too much work. If I can get two to three, heck, even one more, years out of this car for $10 I am happy.

michael hunter: I just had the same thing told to me at a dealership in Beloit, WI. Over $450 to replace. I will go ahead with the sealant first as its a stop gap measure, hope it works.

DankWilliamsJr: Thanks for the video. I think I'll be going with the ThermoSteel until I can do a full replacement. For some reason, someone at Chevy thought it would be a good idea to make the manifold and cat converter one solid piece, so now I get to pay $200 extra for a chunk of platinum I probably don't need.

Jose Duarte: Did the seal hold up after driving and all the expanding and contracting of the manifold?

easleybadboy: You should get better mileage due to computer not dumping more fuel into the system as a result of your O2 sensor telling it that the AF ratio leaner than it really is because its picking up oxygen getting sucked into the crack. FIxing to do this repair tomorrow. Was going to just replace with a header but have put it off long enough and dont have the funds right now. Hoping the thermo steel will hold up a few months till I can install header. I could weld it but I hate taking parts off twice in short order and I am getting header regardless.

How well has the quick steel held up for you.

Billy Denham: They should have called it Liquid Crack Repair!

super mario: I patched my hairline cracked on my exhaust using jb weld original cold weld. dried it for 2 days, after two hours driving my vehicle it cracked and fell apart, it's not very effective on exhaust manifolds. how is your quick steel thermosteel doing, is it still glued and intact?

Bobby: Hey @Rj The Bike Guy, I have a crack on the "connecting" point of the Resonance Chamber and the Connecting pipe. It's a fairly old car but the muffler is in great shape aside from this crack that was caused from excessive vibes that have been since fixed. My question to you is: Do you think this stuff has the ability to bond strong enough to keep small vibrations from causing this are to suffer cracking again or should I try to get this area welded by a professional?

captain deadpool: I am getting a error for that o2 sensor and I noticed the same crack can that cause the sensor to test bad or is the sensor just bad?

Paul Griffin: We used this stuff and it lasted for about 2 weeks and popped back open... Only real way to repair a cracked manifold is to replace it.

Pat Thompson: Well I did all that cleaning and used the quick steel stuff and after 100 miles it all broke off. So what up wit that?
Rating:
How To Repair Cracked Exhaust Manifold With QuikSteel/ThermoSteel 5 out of 5

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How To Repair Cracked Exhaust Manifold With QuikSteel/ThermoSteel