lovesarahchang: When we used to do this job years ago ( I was a teenager then !! ) We used
to take the cylinder out, put it on a grinding machine, driveshaft
inbetween centres, this ensures accurate parallel cutting, put new bottom
plate in if the old plate was to bad to repair and then set up by lightly
turning the blade over, putting paper in adjust to cut the paper. This
ensured that you were not rubbing metal to metal, In case of adjustment to
lower plate, a light tap on the bottom plate with a hammer !!
SamToTheD: I must say, your units aren't quite correct. Every point on the dial on
your metric DTI is 10 microns (0.01mm). What you are describing as a thou
is in fact 100 microns (0.1mm) which is equal to 0.0039 inches. So your
blade is actually within 4 thou! I like your method though and may employ a
similar one myself!
MalcOfLincoln: I realized that after I make the video lol. I always worked in thous and
this gauge is metric. But at the end of the day it cuts paper all the way
around, just as it would if I had used a professional sharpener, so I
guess I'm allowed this small error :) See the last video "Suffolk Colt
MalcOfLincoln: I agree, however as I didn't have a proper machine, or a lathe to use I
just had to do my best. My father had a proper cylinder sharpener when I
was young, and I worked as a precision grinder for 16 years, grinding to a
tenth of a thou. After I refitted it, I measured it with feeler gauges
inbetween cylinder and the bottom blade. Ground the high spots off by hand.
Must have done a pretty good job to get it to cut like that eh!
805ROADKING: quite interesting Mate!!☺
lovesarahchang: Having worked in a garden mower repair shop years ago, I cannot see how
your method can be anywhere near accurate. The correct way is to have the
roller sharpened in a lathe or in a proper purpose built grinding machine.
You are spinning the blade round in one point and getting readings from the
one point, fair enough, but the way you have constructed this wooden frame
is not accurate enough to ensure consistant parallel readings from the dial
gauge down the whole lengh of the cylinder blade.
TheEnglishbloke71: Great use of that dial gauge, pretty accurate sharpening job Malc!
MalcOfLincoln: Yes the dial gauge was touching. You can see it move on every blade. I
usually have it further up the scale, but had to have the lightest touch to
avoid moving it. Are you sure your's isn't sticking? If you are having
problems, refit the cylinder and bottom blade to the mower. Screw it down
so it just touches, then use a feeler gauge between the two. You have to
finish off this way, as you cannot check for lateral high spots.
MalcOfLincoln: Thanks :) Seems 20 years on, 16 years as a precision machinist still has
it's uses (grin).
lovesarahchang: Like you I am old school, used to take cars and motorbikes apart since a
kid, nowadays the average lads only know pc's and would struggle to take a
spark plug out or change oil etc, thats a job for DAD or the Garage. OMG, I
was taking apart my motor bikes , including Triumph Bonneville at 19 years
old, doing engine overhauls, using degree discs for timing the ignition
etc, all with no formal training at the job, most of my mates all did their
own jobs on their bikes and cars then !!
johnnee51: When I use the dial guage the small inner dial has to somewhere in mid
scale, are you sure the end was against the blade?
fergusonfan1: fairplay to you for having a go but we charge like £3.50 I think it is for
every inch for cylinder mower sharpens so wouldn't say that's expensive
MalcOfLincoln: Thanks - been a bit of 'head scratching' for a few days before I thought of
How to sharpen a cylinder mower blade with a bit of wood3.5
out of 5