Flappykillmore: I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, the only noise it makes is a soft humming
sound when I turn the key. (Fuel Pump Engaging) Then after trying over &
over it eventually turns over & starts. Then it runs great from there! Done
this for the past week, turned it on about 10 times, check engine light
just came on today saying "Crank Shaft Sensor", but I was told the car
would turn & run like sh*t. So we've bought a new starter & we're gonna put
that in. What do you think? Our local mechanics said there is no way it's
the sensor if it's running fine. If it was the crankshaft sensor then the
car wouldn't turn over, but it'd crank. But it doesn't even do that so I
assume it's the starter right? Replaced the Clutch switch, started 30 times
consecutively, then failed later that night. So assume it was just a lucky
part of the starter. Suggestions?
Brian Hunter: have a 99 5 spd cavalier 2.2, when i push my clutch in, also in neutral, i
turn my key over and nothing. no turn over. new starter, battery is fine,
have been having to push jump it lately, im thinking neutral safety switch,
but not completely sure. any ideas?
goheat77: I have an exytra bolt, its an unloader wire and everthing else you have
there. ground, unloader wire, ignition wire, and big red wire. how do you
dianose that one?
Todd Dolce: ImRamro,.... Ok....I got the no start today and I did as you said and tried
to start it in Neutral......It WORKED!! I was shocked! So.....I'm
guessing it is the neutral safety switch! Is that a difficult and/or
costly fix for this old 97 F150?
Gail B: Thank you. I think I can show this to my mechanic tomorrow and it will save
us a trip to have Autozone check it for us.
Christopher Duecaster: ok the principles are there and i agree with most of the steps but try back
probing the connection with a pin instead of making the female plug too
big to make a connection or there is my favorite superglue and a sowing
needle- to pierce the the wire cheek for power cover the hole with glue to
seal less parts to take off
robert jernigan: I have a 96 Nissan Sentra that i had a cranking problem with, i would turn
the key and nothing! I changed the neutral saftey switch first and still
nothing, so then i bought battery cables and same story nothing lol when i
came across this video is when i bought a tester light and tested the
ignition wire as shown in the vid, i had no power going to the wire so i
purchased a new tumbler/ign switch installed it and she fired right up!!!
Thanks for the help...
Todd Dolce: I'm ready to give up on my ol' 97 F150. It will give me a no-start/no crank
about every 2 weeks and I can only get it started by using a screw driver
on the Solenoid,....then after that it's fine for 2 weeks or so. I have
replaced the starter, the solenoid and the battery to no avail. Now I'm
stuck with a truck that I can't trust. I will say that once in awhile I
have noticed that you can actually take the key out of the ignition even
while it's running. What a weird truck!
ImRamro: It could be something in the ignition? Next time it refuses to start, try
starting it in neutral. It could just be the neutral safety switch?
Todd Dolce: OK,....I will try that. Thanks.
Frederick Rassmann: I would also suggest doing one of the most reliable and surefire ways to
check this system but you have to master the techniqe it's not hard to do
once you know how is to first check that all of the components are
recieving power.then go through the process of iliminitation AKA -how about
performimg a volatage dorp test First, Voltage drop test
Arturo Menchaca: I have a 95 Chevy Pickup...it seems that the starter stays engaged with the
key in the on position. I changed the ignition cylinder first, because in
the past, the truck would crank to start when the key was turned back to
the accessory position. That didn't eliminate the constant crank. Replaced
the starter and solenoid(bench test failed) but the condition remains the
same. I'm guessing the Ignition Switch would be next, but would hate to go
through that trouble for nothing. Any ideas? Thx
jderossett78: ok so i put new startrer and ignitin switch still nothing no roll start no
start when i cross solenoid leads i cant get power to ign side of solenoid
any ideas im super stumped. thanks
ImRamro: Wow, the starter would stay engaged and keep spinning after the key was
released? If it was not in the keyed ignition and not a physical part like
the cylinder, I would guess the starter? I know you already replaced it.
Did you notice any unusual wear on the star gear of the starter? I guess
the starter gear could be getting hung up on the flywheel and keeping it
engaged, but this sounds more like an electrical problem? Check the
ignition switch next, this is likely the prob. I would start by
ImRamro: I would check the neutral safety switch first. I am sure you can look it up
on YT for your vehicle. Will the car start in neutral?
RockinDigger1: yes the solenoid would be the easiest for me ha i will have them test it
more than once
ImRamro: Mine tested fine a few times, but failed on the third try. If they test it
and say it is good, just please have them test it 3 times. Most people just
buy the whole starter, but you could just replace the solenoid if you
wanted? I would replace the whole unit, just to be safe. Good luck.
RockinDigger1: thank you much!!! i got it out yesterday and i am on the way to autozone.
thank again for the quick reply
bent64: Thanks, that confirms that my starter motor has flown the coop. Easy to
jderossett78: ok so i got a 87 s10 has been starting fine but went to start today nothing
happens no crank nothing just a small click. batt is charged i crossed the
terminals on the solenoid and it acts like it wants to start but wont. any
ImRamro: When you say crossed, I am assuming you are bridging the gap on the starter
and solenoid with a screw driver? Well is the engine turning over at all?
If the only thing you get is power to the starter, then the
starter/solenoid is probably going out. You can get an Ohm meter and make
sure that you have 12-14 volts reaching the solenoid just to make sure. I
had a starter that was going out and would only work if I banged it with a
2x4 wood. Sounds like the problem is in the starter or solenoid.
Georgie camron: Thank you so much. My car won't start in park, it will only start in
neutral. Sometimes my car rolls forward or backwards, when I put it in park
ImRamro: Sounds like it is your solenoid. The sound you hear is the solenoid getting
power, but not energizing enough to spin the gear in the flywheel. It is
the classic sound of the solenoid going out. A new starter will have a
solenoid already attached, so replacing the starter should solve the
problem. Oreiley's and Auto Zone will check the starter for free, but some
stores can only check the starter once it has been removed.
ImRamro: That is pretty dangerous if the car is rolling in park? Sounds like the
transmission linkage is loose or broken. The neutral safety position switch
is there so the car will not start in gear and lunge forward. It sounds
like your transmission linkage is loose or broken because the car should
never roll when in gear. The linkage will be a metal bar that is mounted to
the top or side of the trans. It it what attaches the trans to the shifter
on the floor or steering column by a bar or cable?
ImRamro: The car will not even "crank" when it is too hot or cold? If the car turns
over, but is not starting then I would check the spark plugs for spark
first. You can get a spark plug tester for a few bucks at Harbor Freight,
or just remove a spark plug boot and stick a screw driver inside. Then lay
the screw driver that is inside the boot very close, but not touching to
something metal. Have a friend turn the key and you should see a small
spark jump off the screw driver. Don't get shocked.
RockinDigger1: had my battery tested it was good....now when i try to start i get one
click from the starter and thats it. any ideas?
ImRamro: Try installing a different relay that is rated the same like the wiper
motor or fuel pump? If there is no power at all reaching the relay then it
is before the relay, but if power is reaching the relay and not making it
to the starter it could be a fusible link, a ground, or bad wiring?
Jon Soucheck: Thanks for response. Could it still be neutral safety though, it's a manual
trans??....and I have also replaced the clutch switch, and cleaned all my
cables and battery terminals etc...thanks so much!
azksdarc: I have a 2000 Ford Windstar that has a no crank start problem only when
it's too hit or too cold outside. It has no problems starting when the
weather is warm. what could be the problem?. Thanks.
jderossett78: ok so i tried to check ignition power with test light and i got no light i
also bridged the gap on solenoid and it tuned motor to act like it was
starting but no start and i also tried to push start it and nothing i cant
figure it out should i take starter off and change it or is it a wore or
fire problem thanks so much
tpcoachfix: The bare copper wire IS NOT a ground wire! It feeds battery power to the
starter motor from the battery feed post on the solenoid when you turn the
key to the start position and the solenoid becomes energized. The starter
motor gets it ground from the engine block.
Lilsmf06: Spent too much time explaining the same crap over and over and over.
andres bee: Thnx for the vid. I sometimes have this issue with my 99 buick century. It
struggles to fully crank so I step on the gas whichbit helps most of times.
I hear a grindin soumd and thumping at the same time plus white smokes
comes out the muffler. When i do have problems i have to keep mybfoot on
the gas sonit wont turn off. Sometimes when its failin tonturn on it would
just click once and i would have to leave it alone for days. A mechanic
read my starter at 75
ImRamro: Sounds like the solenoid that is mounted to the starter. The solenoid gets
energized and throws the gear out to turn the flywheel. It could be
something else, but my Cadillac is having the same problem and it is my
solenoid. You can test it with a voltometer, but a delay is usually the
solenoid taking a long time to energize. I would replace the starter or
remove the starter and replace the solenoid.
ImRamro: Sounds like the fusable link? The battery should have a wire that is
attached to the positive cable. This wire is not the super thick main
cable, but a heavy gauge wire about 1/2 as thick as a pencil. This is a
wire that has a fuse inside of it, this wire is called the fusible link.
All it is is a heavy wire with a fuse or thinner wire inside that will blow
to save your components. It should run to the starter solenoid. The wire
should have a lump in it. I had the same problem once, good luck.
ImRamro: If the car cranks, then the battery is still working. I would check for
spark first. You can do this with a spark tester or removing one spark plug
wire and sticking a screw driver in the spark plug boot. Then lat the plug
wire with the screw driver inside it real close to something metal on the
engine. When you crank the car, you should see a small blue spark jumping
from the screw driver to the piece of metal. Don't touch the screw driver
metal when you do this or it will give you a shock.
ImRamro: Thanks for watching and the comment. I have worked on all kinds of cars and
I still need to watch YouTube videos to work problems out.
billbo1154: my starter runs all the time even whene the key is off. help.
Triston Walker: yes the motor sputtering like it wants to die
ImRamro: The intermittent starting problem can be the neutral safety switch? The
easiest way to check it would be to test the wire like we did in the video.
#1 You can try moving the gear shifter rapidly through the gears, then
return to park and turn the key. #2 You can also try and start the car in
neutral? If one of these two things start the car, it may be the neutral
safety switch? It could be something else of course like battery cables or
the ignition? You can make your own shims out of alum can
Timothy James Dean: Thanks Ramro - if it's that simple, I'll be delighted! I hadn't thought to
search for a fuse in the line itself. I pulled and checked all the
heavy-duty fuses I could see in the under-hood fuse box; 30 - 50 amp, and
none of them were blown. I'll let you know.
ImRamro: When it sounds like it is missing, is the motor sputtering like it wants to
die or the flywheel grinding? Get back to me on the missing thing and we
can work it out.
ImRamro: Yes, the principle is the same. If the motor is cranking, but not starting
then it may not be the starter? If the car is turning over/cranking then
the starter is doing its job. Can you describe the problem a little better
and maybe we can solve it?
ImRamro: The most common problem would be a neutral safety switch, but that is just
a guess? I would have someone who is a little mechanical take a tester
light or ohm reader and check the small wire on the starter. This will tell
you if you are getting power to the starter, If you read anything near 12
volts then your ignition and neutral safety are good and it is the starter
again. If there is no power reaching the starter then it is in the ignition
or neutral safety switch. Try starting it in neutral?
kenonehunna: hay everytime i try to start my car i here a clickin sound...its been
settin for 2 days now in its still clickin i think i just need a new starter
Mark Forrest: I have 2000 Nissan Maxima.. when i go to turn it over, all dash lights come
but all i get is 1 click thats it!! Please help email me at
email@example.com for any info that u may have...
Eric Williams: My 94 caddilac deville have a starting problem. Only when the engine is
completely cold , the car car starts rite up. So the temperature of the
engine is effecting my starter motor. So is it the selonoid or that
armature and pinion gear?
101Unit101: Hey there I just recently had my starter replaced and now that it's been
replaced it makes a nasty squeel or it seems to struggle to get a grasp to
roll the engine... It does turn on now but I feel like it shouldn't be
doing this... I'm not sure if it's kind of like a break in type thing cause
it's brand new but yea just wondering if I should be concerned. Also my
remote starter doesn't seem to work anymore?! Is there something that might
be correlated to that?
Rello E: Hey what would be the proper way to jump start the solenoid with
ImRamro: The dash shuts off when you turn the key? If the dash shuts off when you
turn the key then it sounds like a ground wire? Get back to me please.