Andre Segui: hi kurt, great video. i have a question about the ridge cap though.. the ridge cap is not bent down on the ends. how do you cap the end of the ridge cap that is at the end of the building?
Lawn Rescue: To all the experts, I'm in Florida and my metal roof was installed in a similar fashion, no ridge vent (gable vents), basic drip edge on gables (obviously under metal), screws on flat part of metal (ridges on overlap), and directly on top of 2 layers of old shingles in 2004. It is now 2016 and we have been through no less than 6 hurricanes, countless tropical storms, and a thousand of thunderstorms. We have zero leaks. Good video for a DIY'er
Steve Tran: Thanks for great video and very good in every details.
Nicholas Mclaren: Should have screwed into the ribs of the sheet mate.
manx man: Air gap can create condensation - fill with insulation.
2DebbieDoo: Very excellent! Thank you so much for sharing., Take good care of you and yours.
Granite Solutions: Very helpful video, thank you
Alfred Prado: Great video and helpful.
Metal Roofing Mississippi: easier way to make sure the panels are square with a 2 inch overlap. nail a 1x4 scrap on both ends of the fascia. nail a nail 2 inches away from the fascia board...tie a string to both of the nails on each scrap 1x4..pull it tight...then align your panels to that line.
CountryStranger: I completed the roof, and all went well and it's looking great. I did end up pre-drilling the holes, except for the last rib on each sheet, that overlapped the other. That way, I was able to screw through both sheets at the same time, and not worry about the holes lining up. The screws all look perfectly in line and I spaced them 20" apart vertically going down each rib. I used 2 and half inch screws instead of the 2", because of the added thickness of the asphalt shingles, and I wanted to make sure I got through the plywood underneath properly. Right after finishing the installation, we got a very strong wind storm (the strongest I've seen here all summer) and the tin never budged, so I know that roof isn't going anywhere. I still think I'll be okay as far as the sweating or condensation concerns of many. The synthetic membrane is apparently made to prevent that from happening, and so far, so good. Another reason for the membrane, is to prevent the old asphalt shingle from rubbing and gritting against the underside of the tin, so it acts as a buffer. I like the fact that I can walk on the roof, without being concerned of denting it, which was a concern of mine with the wood strips. Time will tell if my method of installation was worth it or not. Worst case scenario, should I notice sweat or condensation from the underside, I can simply remove the tin, take the asphalt shingles off, and re-install the tin again....but I really don't think that will be necessary, because everything is perfect right now.
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Joseph Böhme: Ashfelt? Had a great chance to place in a radiant barrier under the steel and if you had blocked the wood frame downslope, not cross slope you would have allowed any water to fall trough to gutters No Ridge vents either, what a lame slam bam job. I'd have had a butt board at the bottom an see if you have a square or a trapezoid to the ridge
Greene Fyre: What is ash-fault? Are you trying to say asphalt?
oreos n milk: i have a question im doing a metal roof on a room i add in my house it a 16x22 i got my truss on 2x8 and my plywood on it after that i know i have to put sum ice n water peel n stick paper and them my wood strip 1x4 them my metal panels not sure if that the corret way i seen sum other youtube video where the put foam sheet in the bottom instead of the ice n water not sure kinda confuse
CountryStranger: I need to install a metal roof on my garage as well,. I was told I could install the 36" wide metal roofing sheets (28 guage) right over my existing ashphalt shingled roof, which is in better condition than yours in the video. They just recommended I lay out rows of under layment, to prevent condensation. All of the metal retailers I shopped at, told me to make sure I don't make the mistake of screwing the sheets together on the top ridges, (not the lower valley's of the sheets). One store gave me a trick for the screw installation, where he suggested that before installation of the metal roof, to stack all of the sheets one on top of the other, then drill holes through all of them at the same time, every 20 inches or so. That way, all of the screws will be lined up perfectly, once I start laying them down. My biggest concern now, is how do I start the first sheet ? Do I work from right to left, or left to right ? In my case, the bottom width of my roof, is exactly one inch wider than at the top width..so I have about a half inch of wiggle room, which I am guessing isn't too bad. The name of the tin roof is Ameri-Cana here in Ontario Canada. Thanks for sharing the video..your roof looks great. Take care,
Saint Templar: well basically you have basically shown how to basically do a metal roof basically simple enough that basically I could do it basically without too much trouble basically
markreynolds4199: nice video. appreciate this
Now, did you have to pull a permit?
Sandra K Lee: Thanks for the info. It sure helped us.
jkevdavidson1: thank you, how about a chimney, vents, and pipes?