d ray: did metal roofing for 15 yrs. owned my own company. in 15 yrs only had 5 call backs so yes, i do consider myself a professional. never would i ever have done this this way. neat job i guess buy many flaws...good job my friend i will not knock a mans work that does it himself.
Parsifal Druddle: A lot of you folks need to remember your manners. A lot of you need to visit / re-visit mfrs & building code websites applicable to your location, and then those of the folks you are disagreeing with and read carefully before you criticize or disagree. I see a lot of misinformation, bad advice and disputes based on differences between localities and mfrs.
We are all, unfortunate as it may sometimes seem, residents of the same planet - try to keep that in mind, huh? One of the nice things, in my muddled thoughts, about the 'net is the wonderful chance to compare and exchange, long distance learn, nie? Sooo much to share, to learn, to improve. Life is too short - too, too short - to gather enemies to piss on your grave rather than friends to wail at your wake.
Be safe, Be well, Be Prosperous, THINK and help others to do the same.
Harley Tepania: just to let you all know do not screw into the pan of the sheet screw into the ribs only screw into the pan if installing wall cladding
ray bishop: Best video I've seen thank you!
pdxwildchild Roberts: Hmmm...did I miss something? ...or did you NOT cut out the ridge...for ventilation?
Andre Segui: hi kurt, great video. i have a question about the ridge cap though.. the ridge cap is not bent down on the ends. how do you cap the end of the ridge cap that is at the end of the building?
Lawn Rescue: To all the experts, I'm in Florida and my metal roof was installed in a similar fashion, no ridge vent (gable vents), basic drip edge on gables (obviously under metal), screws on flat part of metal (ridges on overlap), and directly on top of 2 layers of old shingles in 2004. It is now 2016 and we have been through no less than 6 hurricanes, countless tropical storms, and a thousand of thunderstorms. We have zero leaks. Good video for a DIY'er
Steve Tran: Thanks for great video and very good in every details.
Nicholas Mclaren: Should have screwed into the ribs of the sheet mate.
manxman: Air gap can create condensation - fill with insulation.
2DebbieDoo: Very excellent! Thank you so much for sharing., Take good care of you and yours.
Granite Solutions: Very helpful video, thank you
Alfred Prado: Great video and helpful.
Metal Roofing Mississippi: easier way to make sure the panels are square with a 2 inch overlap. nail a 1x4 scrap on both ends of the fascia. nail a nail 2 inches away from the fascia board...tie a string to both of the nails on each scrap 1x4..pull it tight...then align your panels to that line.
CountryStranger: I completed the roof, and all went well and it's looking great. I did end up pre-drilling the holes, except for the last rib on each sheet, that overlapped the other. That way, I was able to screw through both sheets at the same time, and not worry about the holes lining up. The screws all look perfectly in line and I spaced them 20" apart vertically going down each rib. I used 2 and half inch screws instead of the 2", because of the added thickness of the asphalt shingles, and I wanted to make sure I got through the plywood underneath properly. Right after finishing the installation, we got a very strong wind storm (the strongest I've seen here all summer) and the tin never budged, so I know that roof isn't going anywhere. I still think I'll be okay as far as the sweating or condensation concerns of many. The synthetic membrane is apparently made to prevent that from happening, and so far, so good. Another reason for the membrane, is to prevent the old asphalt shingle from rubbing and gritting against the underside of the tin, so it acts as a buffer. I like the fact that I can walk on the roof, without being concerned of denting it, which was a concern of mine with the wood strips. Time will tell if my method of installation was worth it or not. Worst case scenario, should I notice sweat or condensation from the underside, I can simply remove the tin, take the asphalt shingles off, and re-install the tin again....but I really don't think that will be necessary, because everything is perfect right now.
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Joseph Böhme: Ashfelt? Had a great chance to place in a radiant barrier under the steel and if you had blocked the wood frame downslope, not cross slope you would have allowed any water to fall trough to gutters No Ridge vents either, what a lame slam bam job. I'd have had a butt board at the bottom an see if you have a square or a trapezoid to the ridge
Greene Fyre: What is ash-fault? Are you trying to say asphalt?