Chevy Vortec Lifter & Valve Tap How To Repair It

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Jason Messer: I have a 08 dodge ram 4.7. Will this work ?

NYRM1974: I have a 5.3 liter Vortec engine on my chevy trailblazer. I use a synthetic 5w 30, I drop the oil every four thousand miles.

I never use a Fram filter because they are garbage. I use a stock General Motors PF 46 filter or a K&N filter. in addition every second oil change I substitute one quart of oil marvels Mystery Oil and I never have sludge build up at all keeps everything nice and clean. the problem with conventional oil is if you don't drop it on a regular basis and use a low quality filter you're only asking for problems sludge is usually the result of poor quality lubricants and lack proper maintenance intervals.

Bondo: As stated by others the filter had nothing to do with it. If anything the lack of filtration may have saved the engines life allowing oil to continue to flow. a decent filter with high efficiency may have plugged up causing the engine to seize.

Angelica Lopez: Adirondack, will i need to do an oil change soon after i run the engine with the atf? Or after the usual 3 months/3,000 miles?

Also, thanks for sharing.

Hellokitty HondaCA: I doubt that filter had anything to do with it, fram is good. .. to me it looks like the owner before didnt keep up on tuneups or just threw whatever oil in. I always run castrol or mobil in my cars that take synth. Some people are just careless and cheap when it comes to cars.

Jasmine Bucklin: Okay can someone tell me how to do it exactly? I'm gonna try and do this myself. I need step 1 through 10 plz lol. I'm pretty sure i can manage changing the oil myself i just wanna make sure I'm doing this properly. I have a 2001 chevy tahoe with 111k miles it runs smooth but literally every other day when i start it i hear that same tapping noise. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the lifter, but if i can fix it myself I'd much rather save my money. So i drain the oil and add 1 qt trans fluid to the engine and some to the filter? Then add 3 in a half qts of motor oil and 1 qt mystery oil? Then drive a while and change the oil again is that right? Plz respond soon I'm trying to do this today lol Thanks

Kelvin Scott: So t
Does that actually works 

damon negrete: I use from filters for year never had trouble like that seems like this person not changing there oil ever 3000miles

Jim Wilson: It's clearly bad maintenence that's caused the lumps. The filter isn't at fault. This is all the crap that's been sitting In the bottom of the sump pan below the pick up level. Most modern oils clean as they go now. 

MFXdump: It's like Al Bundy's Dodge when it was stolen. He reported to the Insurance company that it was worth more than $50, everything on it was original including the oil.

rholdcroft99: Fram oil filter has nothing to do with this problem.  Its the lack of maint. and dirty oil being burnt inside the engine.  The trans. fluid as you said loosened the sludge. 

Ryan Tadlock: I could not thank you enough times, this worked 100% my clicking was so loud and so bad I was afraid I was going to have to put in a lot of money to fix it. But I tried this out, and it fixed it completely, not a single click. My oil was identical to yours and everything it was crazy. Thank you so much for posting this.

Michael Wurtz: what trans fluid do you use im going to try this on 99 jeep grand cherokee with 4.7 slight tick on start up

jose miranda: ive never seen a car poop

John Doe: I think any filter would look the same,not just Fram oil filter. If someone never changed their old, or if they changed oil,but not the filter for years,change you fuel filter,i can only expect they never changed that either.

Will Williams: Running a bunch of different oils brands will  do this , Its always best to stick with  one good one .. thats  just my two cents 

eaf1963: so you are blaming lack of oil changes on a fram filter..... never had problems with fram filters...... had a car with over 400000 miles only used fram filters and castrol oil... still purs like a kitten

BBell48: Ok I have a 2008 silverado 5.3 with 196k. I drive on avg 600 miles a week in SoCal. I change the oil every 5k with 5w30 full synthetic. I get what I think is lifter knock at close to every start up for a few seconds then it goes away. The knocking or ticking sound always comes back when I`m on the freeway(usually 20 minutes from start up) and continues for about 15 to 20 miles and goes away again. On 100 mile one way trips the knocking happens 2 times. It`s been a good truck and I just had the trans rebuilt so I`m guessing the knocking is my time clock telling me to trade it in fast for a FORD diesel.

Brandon Harris: I recently ran into this same knocking/ ticking issue coming from my 2005 Suburban, 5.3 Vortec. After countless hours of research, multiple engine flushes, oil change, air filter, valve adjustment...etc etc solution and problem were relatively simple. If you look at your oil pressure and it reads anything under 40 at cold start idle this means your oil pump screen has one of two things: 1) It is clogged and needs to be cleaned, these things are pure metal so a costly replacement wouldn't be worth it, a simple clean will suffice. 2) The oil pump screen o-ring is allowing air into the system keeping the motor from efficiently moving oil through all rockers and rods. Both fixes require removing the oil pan, roughly 10 bolts, and the oil pump screen, 4 bolts. I flushed the engine before draining the oil, replaced the oil pump screen o-ring, cleaned the screen, and installed a new oil pan gasket all in a couple of hours. Low and behold I haven't heard a single tick since doing this, even in cold weather starts, and my oil pressure went from about 30 psi idle to around 45 psi. Take note I had already checked the valves to ensure there they were tight and this may not fix everyones problems but its an easy fix to rule out a few obvious things. One more key note I would like to add is that these motors are KNOWN for breaking the exhaust manifold bolts, typically on the backside of the motor near the firewall. This type of exhaust leak can also give the same noise as a dead lifter when under compression. I had one broken originally and broke another removing it. IF you decided to replace the gasket and pull the exhaust be sure to buy new bolts as the ones they came equipped with are very brittle. I hope this information helps out as many as possible. I spent hours and hours staring at my motor, computer screen, Haynes manuals, and such before finally figuring this out. I have basically compiled a few weeks worth of research as well as trial-and- error on this post. Good luck to all the Do It Yourselfers out there!

pokerrus78: I recently obtained a FRAM oil filter that fits my Jeep for free, that will be going in the trash.
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Chevy Vortec lifter & valve tap how to repair it