Octo Puss: We have one of these that's doing this now but I have to say that it's
probably really the luck of the draw. Anything will eventually break down.
Sometimes sooner, sometimes later. We've had ours for just about 10 years
and used it very heavily in that time and it only just started doing this.
Of course if you just bought it a couple of years ago, a $200 part would
be an unacceptable expense. Since ours lasted as long as it has, I think
it's worth it to repair it. The washer is still running flawlessly.
Steven Barra: Unbelievable.
You just saved me $75.00! (and those of you who posted comments below).
Earlier this week, I went to dry off some items (as it had rained here in
Central California ... a rarity, but we are grateful!) when I couldn't get
my dryer to work. The light worked when I opened the door, but no response
from the keyboard.
I thought the worst ... a fried mother-board.
I called Sears to come over today to repair it. But due to work, I missed
meeting with the repairman.
So out of frustration, I consulted YouTube and found this video.
Now, I didn't have a hand-held hair-dryer to help. But because it was a
warm day today, I guess the panel had dried out enough for it to work again!
Thank you YouTube friends!
AND I agree with you all ... I'm losing faith in Kenmore/Whirlpool. When I
bought the washer/dryer set, I did take out a 3-year warranty. And luckily
I did, as the washer's mother-board fried three months after owning it.
My combo is 10 years old, but still very efficient. However, when it's
time to get a new set, I might just look at another brand ....
Global Awareness: You simply cannot trust Kenmore and Whirlpool anymore, they all use the
same inferior parts as everybody else.
orangie84: i don't think its the kenmore brand as much as it is the digital push
button pad.. hey washing machine people bring back plain old mechanical
pushbuttons and dials and watch these machines last 30 years again.. then
again these companies want these machines to brake quick so you pay to buy
another.. but a piece of advice.. the next machine you buy, stick to the
old style controls.. stay away from digital.. digital stuff in general, all
around, is crap just ready to break or malfunction..
Rob in NH: Sorry you said Washer.. I was thinking Dryer.. My Washer has only had ONE
problem in the past.. the door-latch got some debris inside and wouldn't
lock so the computer never let it start.. easy fix! -Rob
Gavin Curtis: Bummer. Didn't know that. Are the actual plastic panel buttons sticking to
the fascia/trim panel? Or the actual switch on the circuit board? Most
tactile buttons are supposed to be sealed. Are they the rectangular type
with 4 solder pins or the rubber membrane?
Stephanie Harris: Our dryer looked like it was dead-no buttons responded to touch. I pried
the control panel so it was slightly opened, used a hair dryer and a lot of
banging and it works for now, but I can't change any of the settings!
Gene Adams: They should know that Mexicans can't build control boards. They should have
had the Chinese build them.
Amingr: WHy are you doing this with the blow dryer?
Rob in NH: They are SMT buttons.. a small square platic block with the connections on
the bottom and a paper-thin contact under a metal cap with a metal ring
holding a thin plastic button over the connection.. the panel is nothing
more than a few long plastic pins that push on the SMT buttons.. One drop
of moisture and they make contact.. I have been looking for replacements.
But they are like nothing I have ever seen of course..
Rob in NH: @gamer8222 - Three screws on the top back corner remove the top panel..
after that under it in the front is a few more screws.. that top panel
slides UP and out of a slot on each end.. as for the bottom front.. on the
very lower panel on the bottom corners is 2 screws.. once removed it pulls
out from the bottom..
insectoidmaster: wish I found this before I spent 3 days of EEEEEEE!!! I took everything
apart, cleaned the connections, wiped down everything inside and it seemed
to run great. I put it back together and got 10 min before the beep came
back. I took it apart to find condensation dripping from inside. I then
noticed that the door seal was letting moisture out and straight up into
the board area. I taped it and got 2 dry cycles and it came back. The dryer
works great with the top off. door seal on order.
Taxminia0311: You get what you paid for and what is that you say??? Garbage kenmore Elite
wanna be LG.
jjw6455: It is the keyboard panel that is bad, not the control board. Changing the
control board gives the signal a little extra power to overcome the
problem, but as you discovered it is only temporary. I Submitted a $10
permanent solution at applianceblog com thread =132319#post132319. Search
for 10 fix for constant beeping
ricardo120: Lol to previous comment... China products = trash
donald brehaut: I think the boards are shorting under the ribbon plugs, just finished
ripping one apart to remove the greenish corrosion that helps moisture jump
the connections between the pins that the cables attach to. Will let you
all know if I'm on the right track.
Rob in NH: Not when it's the buttons internals causing the problem.. It's not the
board.. it's the buttons sticking.. -Rob
Rob in NH: IF they had added a moisture board or a good seal around the PC Board area
this might have been a great machine.. even some REAL buttons would have
been better.. I think Kenmore needs to HIRE me.. :^)
JasonWW2000: My buddies dryer stopped responding to button presses. The control input
panel stayed blank. We tested each button through the ribbon cable ends as
well as the solder points on the circuit boards and my DMM showed all
buttons worked and that none were stuck closed. All problems lead to the
Machine Control Board. We changed it twice with no improvement. On a fluke,
we heated the control input board like in your video and the damn think
worked! Temporarily at least.
Matt Todd: Nothing but problems with ours. 2G wasted. I will never shop at Sears
again! Nice of Sears to advertise their repair service on your video.
Teresa Griffith: Had a Sears tech come out and said my user interface board was bad, 500
bucks plus labor. Anyways found someone who said to bang on the interface
and oddly enough it worked. Dryer lit and up and is drying no problem.
Don't get it but it's working for now.
Rob in NH: Not when it's the buttons internals causing the problem.. It's not the
board.. it's the buttons sticking.. -Rob
Gavin Curtis: Dont need to replace the control panel. :) $5.00 can of clear spray enamel
will permanently cure this problem if truely from water condensation and
not bad solder connection etc.
Beth Shaw: I bought the matching set, Kenmore Elite Oasis, over $2000 for the set. The
dryer completely quit working after 8 months. Sears isn't honoring their
warranty on it and has been giving me the run around for over 3 months now.
Matthew K. (101Mattk): turn off the damp dry button??? 101mattk's mom that is what I do...:S still
irritating I know
Rob in NH: Power IN is ok? - Behind the lower front panel there is a thermal fuse.. I
think it's white.. that can kill the whole unit.. if the heater vent line
to the outdoor was never cleaned of lint it gets too hot and that fuse
JasonWW2000: Part 2 The worst thing about this is that unless the technician knows to
try this they will always come back to the Machine Control Board which will
not fix it. At that point they will give up. So what we have is a freaky
problem with the button switches that can't be diagnosed in any traditional
way. We need to spread the word. Does Whirlpool even know about this
problem? Maybe I should build a webpage showing the problem and the fix.
Rob in NH: Hey I found a better FIX.. Remove the control-panel and then the black
plastic assembly snaps out via a few clips.. put a tiny DROP of contact
cleaner on each tiny white button from the front and some on the ribbon
cable plugs at both ends.. This dries up the moisture and cleans the
connections.. Mine hasn't NOT started in a long time now... (my HEAVY
button died today) It's since been fixed.. -Rob
Rob in NH: CONTACT CLEANER ON THE BUTTONS WORKS ! - Read my other post below.. Just
use it carefully as it will take the text off the face of the
Teresa Griffith: Well if moisture is part of the problem then no wonder I have issues. I
live in humid Florida and like alot of Floridians my washer/dryer are on my
back screened in patio outside lol. Won't buy another one. Hope it lasts
Rob Osorn: humidity! make sure your dryer vent is completely sealed!!
speterbilt: yep get rid of the stupid digital crap and go back to basic knobs they work
much better! i have the same washer and dryer from 1995! still goin just
replaced dryer belt after 14 and half years! manufactures design this junk
to fail so they can fix it! but these things arnt hard to fix yourself that
way we can get rid of these overpriced techs! mine are sears brand!
Barry Wilson: We have the same issue with the end-of-cycle lights and buzzer. The unit
also starts and stops on it's own after a cycle ends until the CANCEL
button is pushed or the door is opened. I noticed it late at night after a
cycle ended. I'd hear the drying running. I'd get up to check it and it
would be inactive. There appears run in short intermittant intervals
sparated by longer periods of inactivity. It's hard to figure out what's
happening unless you stand in front of it for several hours.
Rob in NH: UPDATE: Today mine wouldn't start at all.. I did the Hair-Dryer TRICK to
the door switch from the back side and it comes ON... Yet another switch
that can't hand MOISTURE.. -Rob
gamer8222: How do you get the front panel off. I have tried and cannot get the panel
off. Can you tell me how? I would also like to know how to get the toe
panel off the bottom. Can you help me. thanks.. beck
Amingr: i've heard a lot of complaints about the domestic frontloaders....can't
someone buy one of those laundromat frontloaders? or they don't sell them
for domestic use? they are so cool
Rob in NH: Amazing how MOISTURE that it creates inside the case of the dryer causes so
many problems.. All I could do was cut the trace on the board for the
button beeping in the video to get it to finally stop.. -Rob
toddena: Not sticky buttons
SevereTstormFan: I have the Kenmore elite HE3 washer and it has completely stopped working.
Rob in NH: CONTACT CLEANER CURES ALL OF THE BUTTON PROBLEMS - READ MY OTHER REPLIES
Rob in NH: @JasonWW2000 - Moisture gets in between the contact plates of these tiny
buttons and because it's so sensitive they make contact and either lock ON
or corrode and don't work anymore. It's a DRYER.. How in gods name would
there be no moisture?? They went the cheap way with cheap buttons..
SevereTstormFan: I checked for the fuse. Is it in a black panel just underneath the top lid?
Also where is the heater line vent located? The technician said whats
broken is the door switch. We replaced that and the machine still did not
work. The technician then said its the computer on the back panel that is
broken. ughh....... terrible. Thanks for you're ideas though, they are
Rob in NH: It would be a PLUS+ if they had gone with the rubber membrane units.. Alas
they didn't.. -Rob
mtroy0620: Our he4 kenmore dryer just stopped working - none of the controls would
work but the inside light worked. We tried to unplug it and restart it but
it never worked permanently. Finally, I went online and sought some advice.
We took of the toe panel (the panel at the bottom of the dryer) and cleaned
out the inside of the dryer. So far, our dryer has been working very well.
Seems ridiculous I know but it worked. I hope this will help some problems.
Rob in NH: the buttons on the thing are about 1/16th around inside and the ribbon
cables make horrible connections with any moisture in the air.. the whole
machine is a POS
Gavin Curtis: This is an easy repair. Take the circuit board out of the machine and spray
it on both sides with CLEAR enamel or laquer spray paint. Two or three
coats. All parts are sealed so no harm including the tactile switches.
However, you will need to mask off connector terminals. The coating will
dry will create a waterproof conformal coating and will stop the board from
malfunctioning when water condenses on it.
elaprovechado1: replace the board and that would be a a happy cust ,,,,,,,,that men look
like the sears techs a them blower and run away like kittys ,,you call
again for services they never show up ,,,,,,,,,,,them m&^% f^%$#rs
bishfish: I just got a sears repairman out here and he quoted me $500 to repair it. I
did the hairdryer thing and it worked!!! Thanks you!!!
donald brehaut: finished cutting the black connectors off, that the corrosion hides under
and sucks moisture between the pins shoring them out. put the ribbons on to
the bare pins(there is enough strength there with the group to hold them.
cleaned it all up with tuner cleaner and coated it with acrylic spray.
threw it back in and all worked perfectly (for now??). I really don't think
it's the buttons. will keep all posted.
insectoidmaster: I since have found a few things and it now has been about 6 months and our
dryer is working great, no repairman, no parts. I took everything apart and
the inside was covered in lint. I cleaned EVERYthing very good, fixed the
door seal, and cleaned out the exhaust going outside. This buildup inside
was causing a back pressure that created the condensation which caused the
board to mess up. I now clean out the exhaust every couple of months. I
also cleaned the corrosion from the board.