Khris Loux: My HE4 only works if I unplug for ~5 minutes and then plug it in again. Thoughts as to what is wrong? THANKS!
Brian Kerr: Ty for the info.....My suggestion is go back to old school top load ...easy fix model..trying to fight these new front load models is not worth it. - Looks cool - looks nice - however..same as I and some others.....ALWAYS a problem with. (Washer as well) And ta boot....i have a top load Ken more dryer made in the 70's.....still works like a charm....worst case scenario - heating element...This new modern type IS NOT WORTH THE TROUBLE..
Derek Rutledge: Many thanks. Used this and your follow-on post http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/36928-kenmore-elite-he4-dryer-no-power.html with the CRC contact cleaner and fixed the issue. My problem was that the controls would only work intermittently b/c of lost power from the control board which degraded to flashing/blinking shown in other youtube videos which degraded to the control panel not powering on at all.
Works fine now -- hopefully it won't turn around and start acting up tomorrow. Probably saved $400 between a new control board + labor.
tim martin: Tried to take off top front panel to access circuit board but ran into a design flaw when trying to remove the six screws that hold on panel. One screw was buried by a black cross brace ( at least that's what I call it). I didn't have time to figure out how to remove brace so i cut two parallel lines on either side of the screw and just peeled down the metal to expose the screw... and voila. Best to figure out proper way, but it was a curb side pick up, so who gives a s#@t. LOL
Javier Vigoreaux: Had the same problem with my dryer. I believe the dryer does this when there is moisture buildup on the control board from its own exhaust vapors. If the dryer is not properly vented, and/or the vent is clogged, the board switches stick. In my case I noticed this when the switches would stick even when the dryer was off. Turns out since I live in an apartment building the pvc pipping exhaust vent embedded in the building wall (the PVC pipe that takes the vapors up to the roof) to which the dryer is connected was clogged and, since the PVC riser is shared by various apartments, when my neighbors dried their clothes, the vapor from their dryer would enter my dryer through the exhaust vent causing moisture on the control board. I have since disconnected my dryer's exhaust vent from the building provision and have not had this problem since. Hope this helps some people out there.
Elizabeth Di Francesca: Sears appliance are not only costly but the warranties are too, and to renew them is even more. Every time we had a problem no one told us, we found out by the internet or other means. I had to fix our top of the line dishwasher, electric panel, still not cleaning right anyway and stopped using it three years ago washing by hand.. our microwave was on a recall as we bought it, nothing said to us that the elements would cause the doors to blow inside. We had children around who could have been seriously injured but they did nothing about it.....I wanted a new microwave after the inside blow and sparks flying I think that was reasonable, apparently they didn't care, then the front-panel door on the stove who makes a door that food can drip inside of but you can not get it open to clean it ? Then the temperature on the oven wouldn't work so we got another one [ used] but better then this one new. And then the WASHER HE4T front load, panel, I fixed that one myself but heard it had a recall again no help- no one mailed us a notice but we had a warranty .and the dryer heating element not working and going to the laundry for 7 months now. My parents appliances lasted their lifetime, we were taught to take good care of things, but personally I think they make everything now with cheap labor and materials. in this time of a poor economy we can not buy things new, we can not afford repair people, so videos ike this come in great. And last, we had our nice refrigerator go out, melting everything,my husband was going to give it to the scrap man and I said NO, LET ME LOOK THIS UP............one small part in the back is all it needed for about $10.00 and it works like brand new now. Thanks for all the people who do these videos.
Peter Leigh: Followed Rob's great advice on my Kenmore HE4. I removed the face that contains all the operating buttons by taking off the top and then removed 4 screws that holds the 6" X 32" face to unit front top panel that house the circuit boards. Placed the face face up and then sprayed each button with Ideal contact cleaner (at Lowes) allowed to dry then flipped the face so the circuit boards were face up and did the same so I got the buttons front and back (HAD TO ACTUALLY GO UNDER THE CIRCUIT BOARD TO GAIN ACCESS WITH THE EXTENSION STRAW). The Ideal contact cleaner comes with a spray straw extension that comes in handy to spray under the circuit boards without removing. I allowed 1 day to dry then resprayed and repeated (BOTH SIDES). Finally, used a hair dryer on the front face buttons and then back of the circuit board. Considerable hair drying was done so I knew it was completely dry on both sides. Allowed another day to dry out. Assembled and Bingo, the unit is back and lights up like a Christmas tree. So it was NOT the circuit boards AT ALL but the little switches that lie behind the face that are SUPER SENSITIVE to the slightest bit of moisture.
To ensure the circuit face board is not subject to a return to moisture exposure I placed a 3 inch by 32" clear plastic strip under the face calked to the unit that slightly overlapped by 3/4" (Sticking out above the dryer door). I then used 2" 3m clear tape to attach to the bottom face. I also found some clear plastic from a blanket bag and then covered all face buttons and the center dial. Then 3M taped that plastic over the face to hold that covered plastic over all buttons to further ensure NO MOISTURE intrusion. Hope this will sustain my now working unit (THANK YOU ROB!).
Farid Gadimov: Hello everybody.
I have the same dryer and it won't start at all . When I open a door to put clothes in I can see light in there but, the panel does not work at all .I haven't open the mashine yet because don't know what the problem could be.
Do you have any Ideas what the problem could be ?
gatorsms: Thanks Rob.
Contact cleaner on the buttons seems to fix the problem, at least for a while. Fortunately it's only a 15 minute job to take things apart and clean the switches and put it back together (once you've done it once).
I got one of these dryers free on Freecycle. Was going to toss it because the buttons appeared to be pressing themselves and the "Modifiers" would switch and beep at random. Now it seems to be working okay.
Dave Carpentier: The solution that worked for us, was to elevate the front of the washing machine by an inch. This allows the clothing to tumble away from the exhaust vent port (just under the front door). By doing this, the damp air does not collect in the cabinet and the circuit board does not get wet enough to short out those switches etc. As a bonus, the clothes also dry quicker due to improved airflow !
I would bet that nearly all of these dryers will fail via corroded circuit board.
Sarabeth Rose: I've been having the same problem for a couple weeks. Open the machine up and blow dry and everything works fine. Serious design flaw--- the motherboard sitting just north of the condensation coming off of clothing. However, been running for the last 20 minutes (quietly-- no beeping) with the top open... may just leave it that way until my Samsung is delivered on Friday. No more Kenmore. I'm finished with them.
Psycho9263: You should have stuck with the old Kenmore dryers. Cheap and easy to fix and they last.
Brian C: We have one of these that's doing this now but I have to say that it's probably really the luck of the draw. Anything will eventually break down. Sometimes sooner, sometimes later. We've had ours for just about 10 years and used it very heavily in that time and it only just started doing this.
Of course if you just bought it a couple of years ago, a $200 part would be an unacceptable expense. Since ours lasted as long as it has, I think it's worth it to repair it. The washer is still running flawlessly.
Steven Barra: Unbelievable.
You just saved me $75.00! (and those of you who posted comments below).
Earlier this week, I went to dry off some items (as it had rained here in Central California ... a rarity, but we are grateful!) when I couldn't get my dryer to work. The light worked when I opened the door, but no response from the keyboard.
I thought the worst ... a fried mother-board.
I called Sears to come over today to repair it. But due to work, I missed meeting with the repairman.
So out of frustration, I consulted YouTube and found this video.
Now, I didn't have a hand-held hair-dryer to help. But because it was a warm day today, I guess the panel had dried out enough for it to work again!
Thank you YouTube friends!
AND I agree with you all ... I'm losing faith in Kenmore/Whirlpool. When I bought the washer/dryer set, I did take out a 3-year warranty. And luckily I did, as the washer's mother-board fried three months after owning it.
My combo is 10 years old, but still very efficient. However, when it's time to get a new set, I might just look at another brand ....
Global Awareness: You simply cannot trust Kenmore and Whirlpool anymore, they all use the same inferior parts as everybody else.
Stephanie Harris: Our dryer looked like it was dead-no buttons responded to touch. I pried the control panel so it was slightly opened, used a hair dryer and a lot of banging and it works for now, but I can't change any of the settings!
Ricardo120: Lol to previous comment... China products = trash
Gene Adams: They should know that Mexicans can't build control boards. They should have had the Chinese build them.
donald brehaut (DonRed7): finished cutting the black connectors off, that the corrosion hides under and sucks moisture between the pins shoring them out. put the ribbons on to the bare pins(there is enough strength there with the group to hold them. cleaned it all up with tuner cleaner and coated it with acrylic spray. threw it back in and all worked perfectly (for now??). I really don't think it's the buttons. will keep all posted.
donald brehaut (DonRed7): I think the boards are shorting under the ribbon plugs, just finished ripping one apart to remove the greenish corrosion that helps moisture jump the connections between the pins that the cables attach to. Will let you all know if I'm on the right track.