SilverLight Programmer: Thank you for the video. It gave me the courage to do my own. I just replaced my hub bearing because it had play in it and I had the death wobble. I also replaced my shocks because they were the original and I'm at 113k miles. The Mopar hub bearings don't seem to last that long but I'm wondering if it was due to the old shock. I used a lot of PB and the power steering press trick. It took me two hours to get the hub bearing off on the driver side (I'm a one man team so there was a lot of setting the socket/extension, getting up and turning the wheel). I heard a pop and noticed that there was some play with the splash guard so I was making progress. Once I got a couple of mm of room I was able to start whacking it with my smallest cold chisel and gradually worked my way up to my largest and it came out the rest of the way with ease. I cleaned up the receiving side with sandpaper and applied a bunch of permatex anti-seaze on both the interior and the front where the splash guard fits in. The new hub bearing I got was from 1A Auto because I didn't want another Mopar one since they failed so frequently. I torqued the axle nut down 135ft-lbs then rotated the wheel 7 times to lock the axle splines then I torqued it to 250ft-lbs only because I didn't have a torque wrench that went to the spec of 263ft-lbs.
mike qualls Qualls: Great vid. But it say what size the castle nut is? Or did i miss that?
Outdoorsman_78: Great video, I'll be doing that job tomorrow but on a 2wd. Hopefully I have better luck. But if it goes wrong I see what I have to do now. The big difference is I have no axle and three large bolts vs 4 smaller ones.
Batojiri1: 3 pound sledge works wonders on brake and suspension parts that won't come apart. Usually 2 or 3 good whacks with a 3 lb. sledge will break apart galvanic rust.
Brig T: Great idea man. But next time, use jack stands man. The shot of the wimpy stock jack and your little boy standing right there while you crank and bang around on that hub. It wouldn't take much to roll right off that jack... great idea though with the extension. Thanks
wcjeep: Agree with some previous comments. Use power steering on two of the four bolts holding the unit bearing. Bolt to knuckle using a slab of steel. Takes 5-10 min. Zero sweat.
Bill Wallace: One of the better vids I've seen. I only need to remove the rotors and I think I can do it after watching this. Thanks
Allan Lavallee: Using the power steering and appropriate length rods works like a charm. I have done my 03 3500 a couple times and the hub is out in five minutes. Use plenty of anti-seize when re-assembling.
Comanche3Six: Road salt, high humidity. Cut upper and lower ball joint with a cut off wheel. Pressed out 10 tons of pressure on a H frame press. New front u joints 4wd, new upper and lower ball joints, new wheel bearings. High, Yo, Silver away!
duracurvature: Back the bolts all the way out. Thread them in barely. Use the air hammer on each bolt to begin pushing the hub out. It will be slow but it will come. Most likely the bolts will gall into the hub and you'll need the torch to cut the bolts between the bearing an knuckle after the bearing has come out.
duracurvature: On the Dana 60 or 3/4 ton and bigger the bearing is held on by 4 bolts. You're not going to use your steering to push them out. Its just not going to happen. You're going to need a torch, and an air hammer with a wedge tip and lots of PB blaster. Your going to need new brake dust shields and new hub bolts when you're are done.
sequoyah59: I can't even get the freakin' bolts out of the brake caliper! Somebody torqued them with about an 8' cheater or something.
biginchhemi: Man you need to throw some heat at that bearing housing!
Musher Deeds: I spent 6 hours on mine yesterday. I had the exact same problem. I ended up heating the steering knuckle with the torch until it was cherry red and had a bunch of chisels and a BFH. You had a great idea, wish I was thought of it.
Bad Dog: Simply remove the bearing hub why don't you kiss my ass! LOL. My trucks been in a high humidity barn it's as if they are welded together. Heat, puller, sledge, nothing works. Its going to the shop to be extracted in pieces.
debbie jr: use a brass hammer it would come right off and jackstands that's a death just waiting to happen
pointseeker: take a bolt screw half way in the back put crap socket and extension on it put it up against the frame start truck turn wheel whammo hydraulic press save you hours of work it will press it right out
CHRIS BROESKY: I always use jackstands. It's just common sense and safer.
bigdaddymak1439: You need to go to harbor freight get some jack stands and a big hammer!!
TheWaterman1000: Dude...Get some jack stands. You let you child near that truck?? Not cranking on you... But remember safety...
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 front wheel bearing removal5
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