theelfman: Wako, you have beautiful technique. Mesmerizing watching your vids
1AD7um1: nice! thanks for da info!
Marty M: Tremendous video! Especially the part about scotch brighting and heating
Richard Green: 4 years back in time and still good advice... and entertainment! I
mentioned in another post I love your cooking and hunting videos, but
originally (I'd forgotten) I found and subscribed to your channel looking
for these types of videos on sharpening and stropping. Great videos too!
Keep up the great work.
Brad Colbert: where's U nail men ?:(
scarz1951: Glue hair side down.
Paula Robalo: Thank you for your video!
virtuovice: @Freedom100fan I think PHK means H1. Fallkniven H1 is very difficult knife
to use, and your arm must be tired after dressing. I think both are classic
design knives, however American classic is much easier and more useful than
Scandinavian classic in my opinion.
virtuovice: @310shadow310 My regular quality kitchen knife is easy to take micro chips
in regular kitchen jobs. Regularly I let them there and strop it. It's my
regular way on the kitchen knives to keep them sharp. I don't think the
stone itself would make little nicks on your edge. I use #1000 and #3000
stones. Thank you!
virtuovice: @nightwalker2830 When the black compound doesn't settle on the leather
well, to heat the leather using a hair dryer seems good way. Heat it slowly
step by step and you will reach the good temperature soon. Then the black
compound will melt and settle onto the leather appropriately. Thank you.
aTellerOfTruths: Stropping is a lot of fun. I enjoy it. I also enjoy your videos.
Charles G: which order compound do you strop? black then white?
Michael Nguyen: Cool accent and even cooler channel dude!
sufenta67: Have you convexed any Spyderco knives? Do you think it is a good idea or
not? Some must be easier than others depending on blade shape and steel.
CSharp: @Dan39991 I'd second the use of something like mineral oil instead. I know
the folks at WD-40 claim it's safe for all kinds of stuff, but with them
withholding the precise formulation like KFC does with their secret recipe,
I lean towards using other things. And now, of course, we've got nutnfancy
fans spraying WD-40 all over the wilderness in order to keep their chopping
tools from getting stuck during use. While I like some of his vids, this
seems like not such a good idea to me.
virtuovice: @sauliusipsc Now I mainly use a strop with very thin leather. So the edge
doesn't sink into the leather during stropping and the edge goes very
sharp. But its edge is weak. The sharp edge doesn't keep long. So I
sometimes get back to this strop with fairly thick leather when the steel
is relatively soft. It's because the soft steel needs deeper edge angle.
Depending on the steels I use different strop for their proper edge angle.
KRush86: I was also able to put a convexed edge on one of my kitchen knives.
Unfortunately it has some micro chips in it and I can't seem to get rid of
them. Do I need to adjust my angle?
BakalavrKV: Thank you for this video! Now I know how to sharpen my Fallkniven f1:)
virtuovice: @bubajeb I know Fallkniven fans love their DC3 or DC4 whetstone. In my
experience stropping the knife with a fine compound loaded leather after
stone sharpening increases the sharpness drastically. Thanks.
Simon s: Stropping is....... Kind of ENTERTAINMENT!!!
virtuovice: Yes. I am from Japan.
jedirifleman: This is why I use HandAmerican green chromium oxide semi paste. I dont have
an hour to sand, heat and rub a compound on a strop. I can have 5 knives
stropped from dull to shaving sharp in an hour.
ncomplex1: Hello i was watching your videos and i find them very usefull .....you
always use that white or black compound.....to be more precise what is it?
( and maybe you can tell me what other compounds are good to use if i dont
find the same as yours on the market......really good video , thumbs up
from me ! Thank you !
310shadow310: I recently bought a sharpening stone with one side course and one side
fine. I am practicing on all of my dull kitchen knives and so far I seem to
be doing ok. I get them sharp enough to cut through oranges and and onions
and stuff with no problem but I can't seem to get them sharp enough to do
that paper cutting test where it slices through with no problem. Also
although they are pretty sharp they seem to have little nicks in the blade
after sharpening. anyone have any tips on how to sharpen?
virtuovice: I think the convexing is always a very good idea when we need a very sharp
knife with easy maintenance. But it changes how it looks decently and will
reduce its resale value much. I have Spyderco Pacific Salt. I once
sharpened it but didn't convex it. I remember I cut my hand with it when
cutting an orange. I need to convex it soon not to cut my hand again. A
super sharp knife seems safer than a regular sharp knife to me. Thanks.
SolaceSearch: Thank you very much! Where is the cheapest place to purchase them?
virtuovice: @TheWoollyMammoth I now don't use the green compound at all, because it
does not make the edge any sharper than the black compound. Instead I now
use Bark River white compound after the black compound. It makes the edge
twice sharper. Thanks.
virtuovice: @ayokay123 Yes, I like the Bark River blade geometry very much. Its convex
is completely continuous from the starting line to the edge, while the F1
has a fairly wide flat beveled portion on its spine side and a deep angled
convex bevel is blended onto it. The Fallkniven WM1 has the same blade
geometry as the F1, so I did full height convexing on it and got razor
sharpness finally. If I did the same thing on my F1, too, I had to grind
off its cool black coating completely. I hate it. Thank you!
virtuovice: 3V is a very high wear resistant steel but at the same time if it had a
small angle it would chip relatively easily. So Bark River takes fat
geometry to make the edge angle larger on 3V Bravo1 and Bushcrafter, or
secondary micro bevel on 3V Gunny and 3V Fox River in my experiences. They
will say I am wrong in high probability though. Anyway for the reason their
3V knives are a bit difficult to take the same keenest edge as their A2
knives in my opinion. Thanks.
arf nnook: great video. great series. automatically subscribed to your channel. thanks.
entoblast: I love the sound of your voice, it seems confident, sincere and easy to
virtuovice: What we need to do is getting rid of the shoulder between the primary bevel
and the secondary V bevel. I prefer water stones to do it. My hands roll
during honing and the newly made bevel goes slightly convex. And then the
black compound stropping makes the bevel even deeper convex. I have many
videos on it. The secondary V bevel is not for us at all but for a
manufacturer to make the edge very easily by machine. I have never loved a
V edge. Search my channel with "water stone sharpening".
TheWoollyMammoth: @virtuovice: Have you in your opinion found any advantage to stropping to
another level with even finer compounds for greater polish or is stoping at
the green just as good?
KRush86: I finally picked up a leather strop as well as the otter box kit. I also
got a opinel no8 to practice on, and indeed it was good practice. Out of
the box it seemed it was not sharpened properly as it had a secondary edge
on one side. I was able to fix it with the sandpaper. The knife is sharp,
but not razor sharp, but it's because the edge is not straight, it's like
wavy in some areas. How can I fix this?
alantch1: Great and informative video, as always. I also had problems applying the
green compound to the smooth side of my strop until I used WD-40 to spread
the compound out evenly on the leather. Works like a charm. You should give
it a try.
virtuovice: I sometimes use water stones to restore a damaged convex edge or to remove
the micro V bevel made by the maker on the convex primary bevel. But
necessarily a leather strop gives perfect sharpness to a convex edge.
ferdia mcleavey Reville: what an excellent tutorial, thank you. can you please let me know why you
add so much compound to strop? I've often read to put on too LITTLE rather
than too MUCH. Have you tried both methods and settled on this one? Thanks
assimonem: hello i have a bowie knife made by" little meester"reg cooper.we all had
these knives from our days as children in the scouts.do you have any
knowledge of knives made by,reg cooper or arthur wright.the latter sells
knives at heinne hayness,whom your good self gave me the adress.i think
these knives may not be as good quality wise as some of the higher end
knives,but carry an air of nostalgia for me.they do make skinning knives,if
you google sheffield knives and follow links for reg cooper
SpyderTime .: Excellent video as always. I learn a lot from you every time I watch. Thank
Michael Nguyen: Your Japanese? In another video you sounded German...
steinwaygoat: I so appreciate you videos. Thank you.
ayokay123: I have F1 and N5 Idun. As much as I try, I can not get the F1 as
hair-splitting sharp as my Idun. I keep trying, but F1 will just not get as
virtuovice: @alantch1 It can be a good idea. I will try a Japanese similar stuff.
virtuovice: @ayokay123 I agree with you. The edge geometry of the F1 is deeper than
Idun. So we cannot make it sharper than Idun despite of any attempt in my
opinion. Some guy explained me that it's because the F1 is a survival
knife, not a hunting knife. Thank you!
virtuovice: No. My one is made of VG10 laminated steel.
virtuovice: @drkknight614 One of my old kitchen knives had lots of micro chipping
before sharpening. The kitchen knife is very thin and used every day, so
the micro chipping seems to be its destiny in my opinion. If you intend to
get rid of them every chance, it will be very tough. Thank you!
virtuovice: @severzero No, I cannot. I think in order to take the convex edge
superiority, I need to sharpen it on the compound loaded leather strop.
severzero: Can you use the Lansky Turn-Box Crock Stick Sharpener on a convex edge?