How To Choose And Use Insulation - This Old House

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TheSeattlegreen: How the hell does an electrician snake wire for open and closed cell installation?

Rich s: "Heat always wants to go to cold" That is an incorrect statement, it's oblivious this guy doesn't know any thing about refrigeration, COLD ALWAYS WANTS TO GO TO HEAT.

BP: ROCKWOOL is THE BEST insulation. its made of ROCK; Wont Burn, Wont Absorb water, Wont Mold, and Breaths to let moisture out. also great as a sound barrier. Oh yeah, AND it has a great R value to insulate! :)

Richard Mitchell: What about external insulation products to reduce damp and black mould inside the home.

Mellonee McDonald: Any blown in insulation is not worth its weight. I used to do that for a living and I have seen more times than not, It has settled almost by half in the wall. In essence only half of each void is insulated. The house I just gutted had blown in and it was the same way. A waste of money

Ramanbhai mali gusmer: Amit bhai

Thea Bryant: I can't believe you didn't mention the health benefits and drawbacks and the environmental pros and cons of each system. Air quality and off gassing is a huge factor in choosing an insulation. There are sciences and even laws that do not allow the foams to be used in hospitals anymore do to their poor health hazard. In addition some countries who are more advanced in the health and building policies prohibit their use and manufacturing all together. For recommendations about building products that recognized internationally as being the most effective, responsible I like to review the Product Declarations for the Living Building Challenge:

Stuart Kirk: what about Cementitious Foam Insulation?  Air Krete

Shake’r Up Garage: Tom Silva is a genius. I would love to work with this guy

soahcalm: i have an old house 1930 no insulation.. stick built.. it has a cavity to insulate.. but right now its got a lot of wet on the bottom of some of the walls.. about a foot off the floor.. those floors are close to the ground the crawl space, is literally so low you cant crawl under those parts.. there is vinyl siding outside but i do not think there is a vapor barrier at all.. its just the clapboard and walls, i think its plaster but i dunno if someone has put sheetrock over it in an attempt to cover wet walls.... i have to drill in to see if its plaster, but i'm guessing that it is due to its age... how can i insulate these exterior walls.. can i use foam in insulation with a vapor retarder on the inside and put up new drywall.. ripping out all the exterior plaster walls. or will it still sweat and get damp because there is no vapor barrier outside ? i know i cannot strip all the clapboard cladding off the house and add vapor barrier i just don't have the funds.. can a vapor barrier be put between the vinyl siding and the wood clapboard siding? or will this trap moisture.. another thing i thought about doing was taking down the outside walls, putting an inch of cut to fit styrofoam between the studs leaving a little room between the clapboard siding and foaming all around the styrofoam... to stop air infiltration and then putting the fiberglass batting inside and then drywall... will this work? or is there a way i can blow something in the walls and not cause it to get damp and rot down the walls. i've read that blow in in an old house with plaster can cause house rot and damp walls and attract bugs.. ?? any suggestions? i am driving myself nuts trying to figure this out... we have two trooms at the back that we tore the wet wallboard all out of its a board batten type of add on, no airspace, it has wood clapboard on the outside and then vinyl on top of that, i want to build new 2x4 walls and insulate the walls in these rooms but what should i do.. should i just strip off all the wood and vinyl outside and put on plywood and a vapor barrier? or is there a way i can do it without having to strip off the clapboard siding... i really don't want to have to do that if i can get by another way... the house is right nearly on the ground towards the back, all the sills have rotted, they have poured a concrete ditch all round the side of the ouse in a U shape in an attempt to direct water away from the foundation.. im worried that this is the reason for all this dampness its just not doing its job... help!!

David Mandziuk: This video SCREAMS BUILDER GRADE, not what I want in MY house !!!!

David Mandziuk: These guys are in the pockets of Owens Corning, makers of crapty fiberglass , the cause of most fires and mold since the '50's. Home Depot won't stock Roxul with the R value. BUT they will stock Owens Corning SUPER INSULATION, you guessed it stone wool

Tony M: you dont "blow in" spray foam spray it on. Hence the name - spray foam. MORON!!!

Northwinds: how about for sound proof

Shank Montgomery: Have you discussed insulating a crawl space on this channel?

GamePlay Entertainment: Very good info I never knew there were many type's of insulation.

Biker Bmw: Hi! Really useful video.,. I'd like to ask a question... I live in Mexico, near Mexico City, where temperatures in winter go to 0 or 1 degree Celsius, so it's super cold but still it's very cold. My house is specially cold since it's oriented to North so it's also very dark in winter. So my question is, is it absolutely indispensable to insulate all the walls of the house or it'd be ok to insulate a couple of walls and see how better it gets and then pick up from there?... Thx so much for the advise. Regards

Steve 1961P.: So are there any issues with first coating with closed cell and then once set, second coating with open cell? Or is there a reason not to do this? I am in the Tampa Bay area, so most of the time we are trying to keep the heat out. Also, what would happen if we used closed cell against the inside of the roof and then over the years we developed a roof leak? Where would that water go and how would you even know it to know it needed repair? Also, what about fire safety? No one ever talks about fire issues.

Peace and Love To All: I live in zone 6 (hot & cold). I have a tongue and groove ceiling which is impossible to air seal because the old ceiling was left in place. It was a cheap drop down ceiling made of card board. What do you recommend I use an air barrier or a vapor? I'm having a mold problem in attic. The vaulted ceiling appears to be fine.This is a 3 season cabin renovated to 4 season home to 2 yrs ago. At that time the roof was pristine.I'm bagging up all the fiberglass shake n rake insulation and air sealing. I was planning on doing an air barrier on the ceiling. No visible mold on insulation so I was gonna reuse. I have a roof ridge vent, bit no soffiets. Please advise, and thank you!

Cougar Land: That's why these guys work on old homes... so they can stick wiring down cavities where there is little insulation in the way. Most of these methods "blow" your chance of touching that cavity again. Of course if people cared more about external insulation as they should, then the stud bays wouldn't be such a big deal.
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How to Choose and Use Insulation - This Old House