William Wilson: great info, Guy. I have a 1968 Williams Craft Travel Trailer I am getting ready to restore. am going to replace floor frame as needed and check axle bearings and change tires in process so I will be putting it up on blocks to accomplish things easier.. this video definitely helps.
bob woerner: hi,,,,,,i have a 6x10 cargo trail gvwr 2990. not sure of actual trailer weight. the trailer stands aprox.86 " high. my garage door opening is only 84" . due to hoa rules where i live i have to keep it in my garage. i was able to get it in just barely by flattening the wheels. but this s not to practical to use the trailer often.i have decided to leave it on just bare rims to solve my clearance problem to pul it in and out of the garage. and install the rimed tires once in the driveway.what i would like to know is can i raise the trailer safely leaving the hitch connected to my truck and jacking the trailer up from the center of the rear with a 3 ton floor jack to install both tires with out having to jack it up twice once from either side? will the floor jack lift the weight enough to get the tires on ? will this procedure be safe to do? keep in mind i will chock the truck tires and use jack stands under the rear when enough height is reached to take off the bare rims and install the tires.
Eloine Chapman: Hello - I was wondering why you are using the Styrofoam pads? It would seem that once the weight of cinder blocks and the trailer sits on it it will just crush? What purpose does it serve?
sailingsolar: Hello Guy! I take it this is not for overnight stopping and quick leveling but to get the weight off the wheels and for a long term set up. Is it this best done for long term storage? Your demo model made me smile, nice touch. Thanks for the video and/or possible reply either way. cheers
As Homer Simpson always says "Doah!" I read the other comments after posting the above. No reply needed. Thank you Guy, I'll have to talk to my brother about his storage method. (It's an older older brother, Yesss!)
Guy Presse: It's not a real issue if it's not level from side to side, it's just so much easier to level when it is, so yes, if you fit a block around near where the axle is to level from side to side, then the front to back is a breeze. What you don't want to do is lift hard on one corner when the other corners aren't supported. Leveling that way is a nightmare. I've often dug out under the wheels to level when in your situation if the ground isn't too hard. Cheers and good luck.
Guy Presse: Block up the tongue, then the frame farthest from the tongue behind the axle. Easy enough to do in the yard if all secure. If you've never done this, remember to unscrew from the bolt nuts, usually inside the frame, and punch out the bolts. The bolts are ribbed to hold secure in the hangers. You'll need to replace bushings. Also check hangers for oblong worn bolt holes. Cheers and good luck.
Amrakdg: Great video. How would you suggest doing the same thing but lifting it enough so that you can remove the wheels? I need to replace the springs on my double axle travel trailer. Thanks.
Don S: Great video & I love the "props". I don't have a choice of a level (side to side) spot. I have about a 4" drop from the right to left sides. Wouldn't an extra cement block or treated lumber be acceptable to raise the left side a bit higher than the right? What problems could I expect & how can I avoid them?
Guy Presse: Hello Patrick. Thanks so much for the taking to comment. It's always appreciated. Cheers!
Patrick Mahoney: Great stuff.. thanks Guy
Guy Presse: Hey Gary, sorry so long before getting back to you. Yes, lumber does the job well also. Here in Canada with the frost, some people claim the styrofoam reduces frost heave. Most folks just use a concrete patio stone or pressure treated plywood. Hope all worked out well for you.
Lis Outland: Thanks so much for your video. We're just about to set our RV up permanently for a year or two and we were having trouble figuring out how we'll go about it. This helps a lot.
Garry Wright: Thanks Guy I was just getting ready to do this (27 footer). Whats the blue styrofoam for and can I use 2 inch lumber instead? Thanks great video. gary
Richard Manus: Actually, you'll have better luck if you start a leveling point near the axles and leveling to the width. Then do the same at the tongue, using a level inside to get the floor level as close as possible. Remember a long trailer is built on a "S" frame for mobility and if you try to water level the whole thing, you will pop all the paneling loose or crack the sheetrock. You must maintain the "S"
Guy Presse: You're absolutely right about that. Up here in Canada, most travel trailers are parked for the season, from May 1'st of so till October 15 or so, on the same spot, sometimes for many years, at the same campsite. The trailers even overwinter on the same spot. Nearly all of them are blocked up. Cheers.........Guy
justalittlemommy: I could see doing this if you are parking the trailer on your property and it's going to be there for a long while, but not if you are taking your trailer out for a weekend camping trip. No one is going to haul around a truck load of cinder blocks on a camping trip.
shizlnit: Well thats cute
Guy Presse: I would have done the video with a real trailer, but I didn't think anybody would want to watch me for an hour or so. Thanks for taking the time to comment, it's much appreciated.
Corbin Davis: Good tutorial! This helps alot. I tried having someone explain it to me, but this visual example makes it clear. Having said that, I'm not sure that you are going to fit in that particular trailer!
How to block up and level a travel trailer5
out of 5